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Everything posted by brus brother
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A number of the tricks like the spacer don't work on 2005+ models. How many miles do you have on the car? There is a separate warranty on emission items. I can't remember the time/mileage limits. What is the maintenance history on the car? My 2005 has had the code for over 70K miles. When you get a CEL, numerous lights will show on the dash and systems like cruise control become deactivated. In my case, after changing the front sensor and working through the symptoms with cardoc on the subaru outback forum, I just bought a $20 code reader and clear the code every two years to pass inspection. The car runs a little wonky after clearing the code as the computer relearns. The light occasionally goes out on its own which seems to indicate that the car is just over the "threshold." Car performance and gas mileage are unaffected.
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I once used high temp furnace caulk in a tube. Odd location and not accessible as the defect was set back below a reinforcing plate where two pipes join so being able to squirt this stuff in was a real plus. It's been in there at least 2 years and is still holding. If you can lather some of this stuff on and reinforce it with some sheet metal and a clamp, you should get some mileage out of it.
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The above youtube link is for a 97 Legacy. You didn't mention having to remove the pin sooooo... Is it possible the axle is not the correct one for your car as Fairtax and others above have mentioned? Does the other side look just like the one that is pulling out of the tranny as far as pins re concerned?
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update: finally got around to soldering that broken black wire in the left side but that didn't fix the issue. took a closer look on the right side bundle of wires coming from the body to the hatch and there were two wires broken in this harness the wires broke very close to the body so I had to pull the wires out of the rubber boot to be able to solder another piece of wwire into the mix but now it works fine
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08 Outback 97K miles. non turbo Planning on doing a routine TB maintenance to include the HGs since there was a mysterious overheat/low coolant a few months ago and yesterday noticed the coolant level was really low. Wife was driving in both instances and I think the coolant was pushed back out the overflow container. Wife was away on business trip and stopped by dealer for a quick look and they did a coolant pressure test which was negative for leaks. Didn't test for gasses. Anyway, I have come to accept that HGs should be considered "routine maintenance" item. Have a few questions: 1. Is the accepted wisdom to use the genuine Subaru turbo gaskets even though car is non-turbo? 2. Is there a kit that is considered reliable for the tensioner and all of the other rollers and sprocket or is the tensioner best genuine Subaru 3. Same question for kit with water pump? 4. If I get a kit, still only use Subaru timing belt? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Rock auto?
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05 Outback other day, noticed that the rear hatch handle wasn't returning after opening. Assumed some cruddy rust situation and sprayed some rust relief/ lubricant on either side of the handle since access would seem to require disassembling way too much.. Next day all seemed ok. Now the curious coincidence or cause of the original handle not returning?? Today, I noticed that the hatch wasn't locking/unlocking either from the door switch or the key fob. Found a post describing broken wire in the left harness at the top of the hatch coming from the body to the hatch and sure enough, thar she blows! Anyone who tackled this issue care to suggest best way to mend the wire? Simple solder and shrink wrap would seem to be the easiest since I am afraid of shortening the wire at all and am also concerned about the bulk of a crimp connector? Overthinking it??
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when did you first notice the sound? the connectors Tex speaks of would need to be intentionally connected, not a sudden random occurrence. if temporally related to the cabin filter installation, is there a chance any large piece of debris was introduced into the vent stream so as to partially block the switching mechanism?
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OK this sounds familiar. On my 05 Legacy Outback, there is occasionally a sound that is the motor that controls the vent position struggling. Apparently this tired little motor is a common problem but not one I feel like taking the car half apart to get to. When you hear the noise, try switching the "mode" of the air circulation including the foot/window/body direction as well as fresh air intake. It usually gets enough momentum after switching it around to stop the damn sound. At first I thought it was a CD that was stuck and trying to play. Hey, you never know... in your case it may be a stuck CD. Now that I am thinking about it, it hasn't been happening lately in the colder weather here in CT.
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So easy to check and stop all of the what ifs. Unless the op is colorblind (in which case, my apologies) Open hood Look down at where the axle meets the transmission. Is the color of the can at that attachment point (size of a large oil filter) Green?? If it is not green, that is your diagnostic test. Close hood. No need to wash hands. Order OEM or reman Subaru axle.
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I am beggin' can't we just start a sticky wiki and identify the belts/kits/water pumps that have the best track record?? Even for those who don't do their own work it would be great to be an informed consumer and possibly politely up-educate a mechanic or two I do appreciate threads such as these but unless you follow every day (have no life like me) you might miss this very important PSA.
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STICKY REQUEST: Have the same question. Don't mean to hijack this thread but my 05 and 08 Outbacks are also due for TB. The 05 is showing signs of external HG leaks so it appears that HGs (turbo gaskets or are the new gen OK?) should be considered part of scheduled maintenance as well for this (and other) years? Perhaps a sticky on member's experience with various kits? I recall reading that some were recently disappointed to discover that certain parts in reputable and previously reliable supplier kits were changed with barely an apology other than an RMA offer which may come too late for those who have already begun disassembly.
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2008 OB 86K miles. Wife reported that she had just pulled into a parking lot after waiting in a long line. 10 minutes before stopping the car noticed no hot air from heater. Idling in lot noticed temp gauge was just below red. Turned off car and smelled the antifreeze. Opened hood and noticed leaking coolant but didn't identify source just that it was wet below the area of the overflow tank. Waited 10 minutes for cool down. A good samaritan opened the radiator and said there was no water. Added only 1/2 gallon and started the car. Temp remained at mid point. Still no hot air. A minuite into the drive home, temp hit the red mark, she pulled over to the side, let it idle and the temp came back down and hot air was now blowing. Drove 1/2 hour home at hwy speeds and no further issues. It appears that there is a green crusty residue at the point where the lower radiator hose joins the engine. Could this be just a low coolant issue or should I be looking elsewhere? Replace the hose and call it a day? Do I need to flush the coolant and refill?
