brus brother

Had a lower radiator hose leak that seeped and then cooked off on the engine without notice until overheated (twice). Dealer even did a coolant pressure test without discovery. Only after a prophylactic HG replacement at 105 mi. timing belt change did it rear its ugly head. Not sending the heads out, when I started to lose coolant fast after the HG change, i started kicking myself thinking either a cracked head or warp. Found that the hose was no longer pliable and BOTH the upper and lower radiator hoses were weeping/evaporating. Fortunately, I had used the new blue coolant which leaves a much more noticeable residue. Four new clamps and no more loss of coolant. phew!

use KYB on mine

+1 top mounts do fail Just replaced rear one on my 2008 OB with 100K miles. Started off as a rubbery squeak and progressed to a rattle. Now silence is golden.

+1 Rooster I would contact the Attorney Generals Office in your state. They will steer you in the right direction. Advise the dealer of your inclination if ANY resistance. Transmission issue covered/not covered... what does the contract say? They likely used aftermarket cat converter (ask for any of their receipts) would rust out in a year or two here in the northeast rust belt. Maybe longer in misty Washington.

Just happened to view the above video where ericthecarguy was replacing the top mount on rear strut assembly. He gives some tips/reasons for using air/impact tools (as recommended above) and also using zip ties (might consider hose clamps) to stabilize the setup and prevent fly-away. Please let me know how this worked out as I am about to try myself with autozone loaner spring compressor.

Good to know. I didn't think it was legal to resell cat converters?? maybe due to high incidence of theft for quick cash as I recall. Friggin' opiod epidemic.

Common cause of P0420 is an exhaust leak but mine had none. Spray the cold sensor with some PB Blaster. When trying to remove the sensor, do it after the engine/exhaust has warmed up. Autozone will lend the O2 sensor removal wrench. If you can extend the length of the handle with a piece of pipe, the longer the wrench will give you more leverage.

A number of the tricks like the spacer don't work on 2005+ models. How many miles do you have on the car? There is a separate warranty on emission items. I can't remember the time/mileage limits. What is the maintenance history on the car? My 2005 has had the code for over 70K miles. When you get a CEL, numerous lights will show on the dash and systems like cruise control become deactivated. In my case, after changing the front sensor and working through the symptoms with cardoc on the subaru outback forum, I just bought a $20 code reader and clear the code every two years to pass inspection. The car runs a little wonky after clearing the code as the computer relearns. The light occasionally goes out on its own which seems to indicate that the car is just over the "threshold." Car performance and gas mileage are unaffected.

Actually lists automotive as one of its uses on the tube and says it's rated to 600 degrees.

I once used high temp furnace caulk in a tube. Odd location and not accessible as the defect was set back below a reinforcing plate where two pipes join so being able to squirt this stuff in was a real plus. It's been in there at least 2 years and is still holding. If you can lather some of this stuff on and reinforce it with some sheet metal and a clamp, you should get some mileage out of it.

The above youtube link is for a 97 Legacy. You didn't mention having to remove the pin sooooo... Is it possible the axle is not the correct one for your car as Fairtax and others above have mentioned? Does the other side look just like the one that is pulling out of the tranny as far as pins re concerned?

yup except no xrays. Had to perform exploratory surgery. ;-)

update: finally got around to soldering that broken black wire in the left side but that didn't fix the issue. took a closer look on the right side bundle of wires coming from the body to the hatch and there were two wires broken in this harness the wires broke very close to the body so I had to pull the wires out of the rubber boot to be able to solder another piece of wwire into the mix but now it works fine

yup, everything is fine... until it is not. thanks all,

08 Outback 97K miles. non turbo Planning on doing a routine TB maintenance to include the HGs since there was a mysterious overheat/low coolant a few months ago and yesterday noticed the coolant level was really low. Wife was driving in both instances and I think the coolant was pushed back out the overflow container. Wife was away on business trip and stopped by dealer for a quick look and they did a coolant pressure test which was negative for leaks. Didn't test for gasses. Anyway, I have come to accept that HGs should be considered "routine maintenance" item. Have a few questions: 1. Is the accepted wisdom to use the genuine Subaru turbo gaskets even though car is non-turbo? 2. Is there a kit that is considered reliable for the tensioner and all of the other rollers and sprocket or is the tensioner best genuine Subaru 3. Same question for kit with water pump? 4. If I get a kit, still only use Subaru timing belt? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Rock auto?

05 Outback other day, noticed that the rear hatch handle wasn't returning after opening. Assumed some cruddy rust situation and sprayed some rust relief/ lubricant on either side of the handle since access would seem to require disassembling way too much.. Next day all seemed ok. Now the curious coincidence or cause of the original handle not returning?? Today, I noticed that the hatch wasn't locking/unlocking either from the door switch or the key fob. Found a post describing broken wire in the left harness at the top of the hatch coming from the body to the hatch and sure enough, thar she blows! Anyone who tackled this issue care to suggest best way to mend the wire? Simple solder and shrink wrap would seem to be the easiest since I am afraid of shortening the wire at all and am also concerned about the bulk of a crimp connector? Overthinking it??

so which brand have you had success with at rock auto?

last time I purchased, clamps and grease were separate

when did you first notice the sound? the connectors Tex speaks of would need to be intentionally connected, not a sudden random occurrence. if temporally related to the cabin filter installation, is there a chance any large piece of debris was introduced into the vent stream so as to partially block the switching mechanism?

OK this sounds familiar. On my 05 Legacy Outback, there is occasionally a sound that is the motor that controls the vent position struggling. Apparently this tired little motor is a common problem but not one I feel like taking the car half apart to get to. When you hear the noise, try switching the "mode" of the air circulation including the foot/window/body direction as well as fresh air intake. It usually gets enough momentum after switching it around to stop the damn sound. At first I thought it was a CD that was stuck and trying to play. Hey, you never know... in your case it may be a stuck CD. Now that I am thinking about it, it hasn't been happening lately in the colder weather here in CT.

yes

and the name of said company is... what?

So easy to check and stop all of the what ifs. Unless the op is colorblind (in which case, my apologies) Open hood Look down at where the axle meets the transmission. Is the color of the can at that attachment point (size of a large oil filter) Green?? If it is not green, that is your diagnostic test. Close hood. No need to wash hands. Order OEM or reman Subaru axle.

Just had the same thing on my 05. As stated above, just a splash of brake fluid did the trick. There was no visible signs of leaks and the pads were only half worn.

time for a new broker shop around if you own your home, bundle with homeowners for even better rates try state farm insurance