brus brother

I think you mean motor oil?? From the Great Oracle Google: Rust is another name for iron oxide, which occurs when iron or an alloy that contains iron, like steel, is exposed to oxygen and moisture for a long period of time. Over time, the oxygen combines with the metal at an atomic level, forming a new compound called anoxide and weakening the bonds of the metal itself. I've seen some pretty old cars with inferior metal sprayed with old motor oil and it seems to inhibit further oxidation. If the air can't reach the metal, no more rust.

Check the above link to Fargo to determine if'n ya need undercoat as well..

Naturally Aspirated

I too am leaning towards a bad alternator. Don't mean to brag but, once again, here... south of the border, Autozone will trot out to your car and check the alternator and battery for free. I hope Montreal has something similar to offer,

Go to your local auto store and have them scan for codes. Here in the US chain stores like Autozone scan as a free service. When a code is thrown, the CEL light will come on and the cruise control will be deactivated (blinking light) Report back with the codes.

check out prices for replacemenmt direct fit cats at Eastern Catalytic Converters at Autoeverything.com

I'm with Fairtax. Heat shields likely culprit. Get underneath and bang away on the exhaust. if it is a heat shield , use large circular pool clamps to tighten at the neck of the shield..

yup that is probably just a link to the picture on his computer. If jonny clicks on it, it just might work, linking to his own file on his own computer. My guess is he needs to upload the file to USMB

from dead stop occasionally I get a clank from the right rear when accelerating. where to look first... yeah I know, the right rear ;-) 2005 OB 165K miles

subarupartsforyou.com part is 14.78 and shipping to Charleston sc 10.52 total $25.30

Try subarupartsforyou.com they are local to me here in CT at Dan Perkins Subaru. I can walk right in and order parts at the shop/internet price. Ask for John or Anthony and mention USMB.

checked again. silicone sprayed all bushings and it still appears to be coming from the top of the rear shock. Is there any easy way to access that mounting area for silicone spraying to at least verify the source. Are there any bushings internal to the shock that could squeak? never did shocks before.

as the title says... is it possible that "internal" bushings are squeaking. I don't have a lift but sprayed the siht out of the area with silicone but no relief. Can I access the top of the shock from inside the Outback? Any suggestions as the squeak is driving my wife (and follows to me) crazy!

My 05 started an external hg oil leak around 105k miles. I am currently at 170K miles. I have free oil changes for life with dealer and they always report that the leak has gotten worse (oil leak). OK so I keep a paper bag weighted down with rocks in the garage to catch the oil drips and have never run low on oil between my free oil changes. Am thinking about renting the car out to seal driveways. People around here just love that stink of fresh oil soaking into their crumbly asphalt driveways. Anyways, a local subie shade tree mechanic here in CT quoted ~$400 labor to replace hgs. He also knows my car and all of its other deficiencies (wheel bearings. P0420 - and after all testing and praying, points to cat being shot, climate control motor going out) His recommendation... just drive it! It is my station car and I'm not headed to the outback in my Outback. If it is still kicking around 210K for the next tb scheduled replacement, I'll probably do the hgs at that point. As in your case, my car still runs well enough so tough call but if you haven't done the tb service, hunt around some more. It may be worth your while from Harrisonbuirg, Pa to take a road trip and park in GrossGary's driveway and block him in until he agrees to work on your car!

just checking but did you pull the fuses and test or just visual inspection... I have been fooled in the past.

you'll need to drill these out but: antifouler from autozone orf wm http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dorman-42009-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler-18mm-Gasket-Seat-Pack-of-2/191881703?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=371&adid=22222222227040538595&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=99532280554&wl4=pla-234123911074&wl5=9003369&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111839980&wl11=online&wl12=191881703&wl13=&veh=sem search google and there are some sellers that drill them out for you for a little more $ That being said: This DID NOT WORK on my 05 OB. Something about the way the computer reads info on 05+ models. Just our luck huh?! I bought a cheap code reader for about $20 and for the past 5 years, I clear the code so as to pass inspections and away I go. Never found a leak, never found a cause. Never found that it affects performance other than disabling cruise control and the light show of blinkers in the dash cluster.

Of course FT is correct! I just came home with my 05 OB with A/C blaring. The tube indeed sticks out of the lower firewall just lateral to the forward cat on the passenger side. If nothing or little is draining try snaking as above with coat hanger or a few gentle blasts of compressed air might be needed. Instead of coat hanger maybe try a long zip tie. More flexible around corners. I used the coat hanger on my old Loyale and I think it may have been a little less of a torturous route on that oldie.

so first remove the floor mats and let them dry in the sun for a couple of days. spray them with lysol once dry to help control mold. now look to see if condensation is draining from the a/c-defroster when you run the car. it should drain in the same area (right rear well) straight to the ground. if not the hose may be blocked. If you can find the hose, gently snake a coat hanger up and see if it clears any blockage. The blockage is usually just an aggregated biofilm that is actually fairly soft and won't require much coaching to clear. Correction because I am an idiot... "rear wheel well" I must have been asleep when I wrote that!

Did you check to see if one of your cv boots is torn? That grease has a particularly nasty smell when it is flung onto the engine/exhaust.

Agreed, Would brake cleaning spray be a good solvent to clean in place?

in video above guy reused the existing clamps. they are already bent at exact mark.

this guy does the boot (inner) without removing the axle... least is best?

try a different sd card?

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/108746-leaking-power-steering-pump.html see post #8 for recap o ring at top of pump

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151953-05-ob-power-steering-fluid-leak/ My 05 was leaking and this single o ring mentioned in the above link solved my problem.