brus brother

Of course FT is correct! I just came home with my 05 OB with A/C blaring. The tube indeed sticks out of the lower firewall just lateral to the forward cat on the passenger side. If nothing or little is draining try snaking as above with coat hanger or a few gentle blasts of compressed air might be needed. Instead of coat hanger maybe try a long zip tie. More flexible around corners. I used the coat hanger on my old Loyale and I think it may have been a little less of a torturous route on that oldie.

so first remove the floor mats and let them dry in the sun for a couple of days. spray them with lysol once dry to help control mold. now look to see if condensation is draining from the a/c-defroster when you run the car. it should drain in the same area (right rear well) straight to the ground. if not the hose may be blocked. If you can find the hose, gently snake a coat hanger up and see if it clears any blockage. The blockage is usually just an aggregated biofilm that is actually fairly soft and won't require much coaching to clear. Correction because I am an idiot... "rear wheel well" I must have been asleep when I wrote that!

Did you check to see if one of your cv boots is torn? That grease has a particularly nasty smell when it is flung onto the engine/exhaust.

Agreed, Would brake cleaning spray be a good solvent to clean in place?

in video above guy reused the existing clamps. they are already bent at exact mark.

this guy does the boot (inner) without removing the axle... least is best?

try a different sd card?

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/108746-leaking-power-steering-pump.html see post #8 for recap o ring at top of pump

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151953-05-ob-power-steering-fluid-leak/ My 05 was leaking and this single o ring mentioned in the above link solved my problem.

+ on the wife / gas cap loose. in fact, when I opened the filler door, the cap fell out!

yup, don't brake which will just lower the nose and give the furry friend a glide path up the hood into the windshield and then you are lap dancing with a deer. glad your friend passed the crash test.

I have a 2005 OB and since 105,000 miles (currently at 165,000) I started with the P0420 cat efficiency below threshold. Replaced the front and rear O2 sensors on the passenger side with no positive outcome. There are a total of three cats and five sensors on my 05. Brilliant! I bought a cheapo code reader/eraser for $19 on ebay and clear the codes and allow the systems to reset every two years for CT inspections. I think I've done that dance four times so far. I have become accustomed to the flashing lights. Initially, I used black electrical tape to hide them for a while but took it off for inspection and never replaced the tape.. The cruise is deactivated with a CEL but I don't use cruise so not a loss for me. I priced Eastern catalytic for a replacement at around $125 but probably only good for a year or two. Will change it out when I am ready to sell.

My head just burst into flames thinking about all of the what ifs...

08 Outback here in good old salty Connecticut. Thought ball joint replacement would be a snap but looks like the snap part may end up being the pinch bolt that holds he joint in place! Soaked it in PB Blaster for a few days but I can't budge it with a 6 point socket. I am afraid that I will soon be in "drill her out hell" once I snap the bolt. It seems as though the design with the open space that is pinched together allows road salt and cryptonite like rust to occur from the middle of the bolt outward as well as from each end inward. I suppose some heat might help but without a lift, I may just be cooking the outer cv boot before I am done. Is it reasonable to think that continued use of PB Blaster will eventually overcome the will of Mr. Rust?

If this is a game of charades... I'm stumped.

Well, mine is on the passenger side so... maybe... nah... I see HGs in my future. I wonder if this external oil leak may also have an internal component that killed the cat on the passenger side... Changed the O2 sensors and plugs were fine so can't explain what caused the friggin' P0420 failed cat on the passenger bank.

Nah, that would be too easy. It is dry beneath the sending unit. The various recesses to the left of that sensor atop the engine is where I have oil puddling.

Drats! Well, the good news is I have lifetime free oil changes from the dealer so I can just keep up with the service intervals and in the meantime, I can lease the car out to seal asphalt driveways in the neighborhood.

05 Outback 170,000 miles I noticed oil spotting the garage floor for a while. Tech told me I have badly leaking HGs. Would there be oil pooling in the recesses on top of the engine from HGs or is it something else? It is one grimy mess in there and I can't really see the source.

Agreed. These are man made creations and failure is an option due in part to many variables and some are external to SOA's assembly. Take a look around you at mankind (creations of God). If you look at those failures you would think that He was an underachiever ;-) SOA takes ownership of the problem and remedies it. My 05 and 08 were part of the Tekata airbag recall. My dealer put me on a list and as soon as parts became available, called me and even gave me a loaner while they kept each car for the few hours it took to repair. Considering the many millions of cars involved in the recall, I am pretty satisfied with their level of service.

http://pix11.com/2016/05/13/subaru-issues-recall-warns-owners-to-stop-driving-now/ OK it only involves certain 2016-17 models manufactured after Feb of this year so likely not many cheapo beater drivers on USMB affected BUT the warning says stop driving immediately. Don't even drive to dealer. They will come to you. Sounds pretty serious. Steering column failure Legacy and OBs. Ooops!

[/size] That's why I found this guy's technique to repair boot without removing from wheel interesting[/size] Fewer parts to monkey around with.[/size]

Well, this was posted alongside Lucky's video: least is best... although also a friggfin' mess, I may have to try this

Thanks all. Lucky's video even says "if you aren't going to reuse the axle... use the handy pry bar" I was asking about if I wanted to reboot so I guess I'm in for a tug o war with the lil bugger...

If I remember correctly, the last time I did a cv boot replacement was on a 2000 (pin holding axle to tranny) MY 05 apparently has a C clip that locks into the tranny. Instructions I have read said "if you are replacing the axle" you can place a pry bar between the green cv cup and the tranny and pop it out. It seems to suggest that this could damage the cup. How do you remove the axle from the tranny if you are going to reuse (reboot) the axle? Is that C clip designed to be popped out and can it be reused? Any write ups?