brus brother

any chance there is corrosion at the fuse location to disable AWD? that would be too simple...

For those who may not be getting warranty information from SOA. Certain 05-09 Outback and Legacy models may have an issue with ""sticky or melted dashboards as a result of heat and humidity" This is not a recall but a customer satisfaction program extending the "New Car Limited Warranty" of replacing such dashboards or reimbursing for work already completed. No limitation for mileage or warranty start date. Offer ends March 2017. Free? I'll take a dozen... ;-)

Welcome to the board . If possible, upload the pics with a description to the USMB Repair Manual forum located HERE Instantly gain "valued member" status and all of the prestige that goes with such a title!

One way or the other, I would get a dealer to make a record of the condition. If I recall correctly, there is a warranty on emissions separate from the 5 year/60K mile standard warranty. The sooner the better. These systems get expensive to repair on your own.

I posted recently here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157745-lessons-learned-clogged-catalytic-converter/?do=findComment&comment=1318073 about a clogged cat. Your lack of power sounds like what this post referenced. You may have 2 issues, rust and clogged cat.

hah "front rear"!! meant front left more hard driving and diagnosis to be done soon

Having learned much from browsing USMB pros and novice input, I was able to solve a buddy's headscratcher. 2002 Ford E250 van suddenly lost power. At first, could barely make it up a hill and then could barely go along a flat straight road. Checked fuel pressure thinking bad pump or filter. Checked/disconnected a few of the coil on plugs as some had been replaced but not all. At idle it ran fine. Under load, just died. In a parking lot, revved the engine and a hose blew off the valve cover. Yup, the exhaust was completely blocked by a disintegrated catalytic converter. Disconnected the exhaust and roared home (varoooom) to vacuum out those pieces that were causing the blockage. Reconnected the exhaust with a new gasket. No codes thrown and for now will just run it as is. When it warms up outside, may run a scope up the y to determine which side was affected and see if there are any more pieces waiting to come undone.

I have been real careful on hard turns like turning into a driveway and haven't noticed the extreme noise lately. Just a thought... besides cv joint, what else might cause such a noise. Turning full lock hard right (nearly u turn) going up an extreme incline into a parking spot, noise came from front rear corner. Sounded like loud cv clicks and as if I was dragging that left front tire as if it had been disengaged from the axle.

There is a description in the owner's manual on my 05 OB. Do you have your manual? Probably different but I could scan mine if you don't have yours if can post a picture of your light assembly.

Original axle with green cap on inner joint. If I can trust my ears, I suspect the outer joint. Too much snow to get underneath to see the outer joint but none of that real stinky joint grease burnt smell. Though it could be masked by my oil leak onto the exhaust. If I go for a new/rebuilt axle, what is the best after original?

Just noticed my cv joint started clicking on real hard turns. Boot doesn't appear torn. Started last week as I made a real hard turn while heading into an uphill parking spot. Heard the click and there was some serious noise as if binding on that wheel. Is a re-grease/reboot a reasonable treatment or am I looking at replacement? 2005 OB 175K miles on original cv/boot

Just noticed my cv joint started clicking on real hard turns. Boot doesn't appear torn. Started last week as I made a real hard turn while heading into an uphill parking spot. Heard the click and there was some serious noise as if binding on that wheel. Is a re-grease/reboot a reasonable treatment or am I looking at replacement? 2005 OB 175K miles on original cv/boot

If you end up needing parts try subarupartsforyou.com here in CT. Ask for John or Anthony.

Edit: nm just realized this was solved I was responding to post on page 2 gotta check my brain fuse!!!

attached are before and after pics of repair done with heat gun and pressure. not perfect as you can see from the top area but the majority is a success story.

No problem with my 05 OB BUT spoke to a rebuilder when mine failed last year and after a quick search, he declared that unit not serviceable because of the way it was constructed. Hope yours is of a different type.

Same here on my 2005. Suddenly one day no start. Read about the "bang with hammer" method. Got to the point where I needed someone to be turning the key while I used a long stick to tap the starter. Eventually just replaced it (the starter NOT the stick) and I can now operate the car without a designated key turner. edit: the starter on the 2005 was not able to be rebuilt even pro shops said buy new.

Is the switch in the back a 3 postion? Off/On/Door? take a look at the fifth post and wiring for the 95 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/47538-why-won-t-my-trunk-light-go-off.html

wow 2016 Model... probably no HG issues... yet ;-) Your question sounds like one for the dealer or salesman hope you enjoy your new car smell and welcome aboard!

Please keep us posted if ever the p0420 returns.

Looks pretty mean to me. I have an 05 in CT also and mine doesn't look anything like that. Mine may have some undercoating but I am original owner and didn't pay for anything extra from CT dealer. Wonder if it was Sandy Storm damaged and submerged in salt water...

Exactly my question! Is it supposed to slide back and forth as in the video?

Link click on link then click thumbnail to play. Rear wheel bearing 05 outback 165,000 miles Would this qualify as "excessive" play? It sounded real crunchy when extended and rotated.

Turn to the right is loading the left bearing and accentuates the noise. Left bearing shot. That's your diagnosis. Just had my rear bearing 05 OB done yesterday. Not cheap but was directed by member GrossGary to Beck Arnley (Denso reman) which is much less than SOA. Some others suggest Timken brand works fine. Compare PartsGeek and Rock Auto pricing. Peace of mind and quiet has returned.

I have been running mine with p0420 for at least 4 years. Clear the pending code and then do the runaround to set the systems to get it pass inspections for another year. I will try and search out the exact procedure. I know I have it linked somewhere.