brus brother

Thanks! Popped the brakes as suggested and it started. Not sure if causal or temporal related but what is the logic behind the brake "pop"?

tried in neutral. no difference. i will try the brake back in a few minutes

2005 OB Automatic New Battery Parked car after 10 minutes car wouldn't start. In the past I occasionally had issues where I would have to jiggle the gear shifter to get it started but it always then started. I don't know if this is the same issue or unrelated. Am going back with a wire to jump from the battery to the starter solenoid to see if anything happens. Would that work if the safety switch is shot or is there a relay I need to check (and how do I do that?) Please don't let me misdirect with misinformation so any thoughts appreciated.

Local Autozone and Advanced Auto have them here in CT. Racks of various fasteners. Various sizes as well as combo packs.

If they don't pay in the allotted time (determined by the court) then you will need a marshal to get your money. All costs associated with marshal, additional fees AND interest are added to your judgment. As I suggested earlier, have a friend pay them by check if possible and then you can see where they bank and freeze their account until they settle up with you. THAT will get their attention.

Thanks for the research FT4 Agreed about the bearing appearance as n/a to my project. Still puzzled why SOA has such a spread where the fronts are way more than the rear (F- 198 R-109) as compared to B/A (F-80 R-94) I'll post back when the project is done and the growling beast tamed.

bearings and hub/bearings Here's a page for front hub/bearing combo as well as listing for 2 different bearings (one rear and one front) The bearings are made by "National" and csr says made in good ole USA. BUT are they even wheel bearings??? I'm gonna keep my day job.

oops sorry i missed the details. 2005 OB. rear is worse than front but was pricing it out in case i did both. search at Advance Auto brought up bearings as well as hub/bearing combo. if i go with the combo i will monkey around with the heat and cold method on the old one. as i mentioned the price of soa is better than BeckArnley. fronts are pricey with either.

Well it looks like SubaruPartsForYou.com which is online but local to me has the genuine parts for the rear bearing for less than the Beck and Arnley. So I guess I'll go genuine for that. For those trying to save a few bucks, does it make sense to replace just the bearing or if paying someone to do the job, labor wise, just bolt on the new assembly. I was googling around before I came across the hub/bearing assembly and found a clever youtube video "pressing" a bearing in without a press. Basically put the hub in an oven, put the bearing in a freezer and then once at altered temps and shrinkage/expansion has been achieved, you can just drop the bearing into the hub. Start viewing at 8:42 where the fun begins. Wonder if the grease is affected as the temperatures reach equilibrium.Oh well, not for the feint of heart or those whose wife wouldn't let you muck up the oven.

SOA quoting $109 rear and $198 front hub/wheel bearing. I see a number of online suppliers selling them in the $50-60 range. Fair amount of labor and more important dirty job so would prefer some longevity. Any recommendations welcome.

Did you use Stop Slip or Trans-X as per the sacred post on this site? If your filler tube looks anything like the one in the video, probably best to bite the bullet than monkey around with "Maybe Seal". One and done is best in this case.

++ Lucky Texan I posted this solution many years ago after a tip from a SOA tech. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/57446-wind-noise/?hl=%2Bwind+%2Bnoise&do=findComment&comment=463928 and here with pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4377-drivers-window-wind-noise-fix/

Have a friend pay them with a check. Once they deposit the check and you see where they bank, you can get a court order and hire a marshall through the court to seize/freeze their bank account. All fees paid by you will be added to the judgment.

well i would have suggested a nut buster but you would be the best judge of space requirements.

I found the noise source to be related to the "mode" selector on the HVAC unit. Thought I had pressed, tested, banged, kicked every button but retracing my steps, the sound stopped when I hit the mode switch. Perhaps it was stuck between "modes". After a while, the sound had begun to sound as if the cd player was searching for a track or new disc, but that was not the case. Glad I didn't tear into the center dash on a search and destroy mission!

1. Did you buy the car from a Subaru dealer? How much was the policy? 2. Are they really insuring a car sight unseen? Then that is their fault and not yours. There can be any number of hidden faults and that is exactly what you are insuring yourself against! 3. Find out who is underwriting the insurance policy. 4. Contact the local Attorney General's office. No way should you give even an inch on this one!

Hey Nipper, How old/new are the struts? How did you eliminate them from the differential diagnosis?

shoddy service please update on the project progress and tips.

Thanks for the feedback and good luck on the project.

which "wow" has the best prices?

There are a number of on-line parts dealers that are actually based out of Subaru dealerships. SubaruPartsForYou.com is local to me here in CT so I can walk in and ask for the internet or shop price. They are very helpful so if you are unsure, give them a call. Ask for John and mention USMB as they do run specials now and again with free shipping offers. I forget the name but there was another such dealership/online seller local to NJ that I used a few years ago before my local dealer got into the game.

05 Outback started 2 weeks ago. tweeting sound more noticeable in cabin no rhythm not related to engine speed happens when car idling at stop or in motion not related to brake (foot on pedal or not) no cd in player no radio on erratic - doesn't happen all the time and I have yet to be able to hear it in the engine bay (listened at alternator) doesn't seem like the dashboard is creaking Is there any type of relay that could cause this sound. May or may not be related but just after the noise began (two weeks ago) my battery inexplicably died - car wouldn't start (5 years old) but then was able to take a charge. I posted about this last week and just ended up replacing the battery which so far is performing fine.

no cd stuck replaced battery today sticker on old one indicated 7/10 so at or near the 5 year mark the rest of the discussion is academic at this point

Car started without issue and was run for about 20 minutes before the first test that resulted in the "replace battery" reading. Similarly, car was run for about 20 minutes before the second test (good-recharge) BTW: looking at the test results, is there any explanation for the variable CCA readings? The battery is rated as 640 CCA. The initial test result (replace battery) was 559 @ 130 degrees and the second (good battery result) was 544 @ 136 degrees. Each of these represents a reduction of about 15% BTW2: I had disabled the seatbelt chime in the past but after this "dead battery" episode, while the radio presets were ok, the seatbelt chime is back to factory setting.

Sorry if I wasn't clear. New Walmart battery not installed yet. Existing battery that tested bad then good is of uncertain age but probably close to 5 years. Terminals are tight and don't appear to have any corrosion and are slathered in dielectric grease. Overnight reading 12.65 volts I will try to find my hygrometer to compare cells. There is electrolyte visible in each cell.