brus brother

More time on my hands now. I decided to back track. Had just started the car a few hours ago and it was still in the garage so I didn't think to try it then and there and just proceeded to remove the little push on connector from the ignition to the starter solenoid to play around with hot wiring so I can revisit juvenile hall when I am way over the hill ;-) OK key off / plug disconnected, POS of battery jumped to spade plug on solenoid made crank. He thinks to himself, OK if you have a problem again, at least you can jump it with the key ON and start the car and limp home. Great tell the wife "tada... all glory and honor be mine" Notice a little greening inside the connector and use my handy dental pick and scratch inside a little bit. Spade seems clean. Put connector back on and... no start, just click click click click. Dadgummit! OK nothing to tell the wife about here. Push connector on and off a few times. nada. Take a long solid 1/2" diameter solid plastic rod and wind it down atop the starter solenoid and give it a good tap with a hammer. Turn key and it starts. Sooooooooooo not wanting to carry hot wiring tool kit or a hammer to start the car, am I now looking at rebuilding the solenoid or is there more diagnosis to be done before wasting $10 on contacts?

FT for diagnosis. If I hear a "click" what does that indicate? If it is the solenoid contacts, is there anywhere on line to get them?

I can't hear anything from inside car BUT fellow that stopped to help yesterday said he heard something when I tried to start the car

no cel no codes pending drove home and it restarted immediately....

code reader at home. will check when i drag my sorry butt home later.

wanted to add: new battery I had sprayed lithium grease on terminals and that crap had melted and seeped down between the connectors and post but i had cleaned that off yesterday when this all started. I still think something is heating/expanding and malfunctions until cooled. just my opionion from the rowdy cheap seats!

about 3 hours later friend tried and car started right up. soa parts csr says starters fail so rarely that they don't even stock them. so... what expands and fails when heated but revives after cool down?

failing starter motor??

car in commuter lot for next few hours. just a thouight but if the car restarts later after cooling down would that point to anything?

stuck again after 15 min drive no restart but lights on. ran auto shifter through gears. tapped brake. wire from pos to starter. banged on starter solenoid. what else to check?

Thanks FT, the prize went to the Lucky Texan. Security system but hadn't locked the car. Had run the shifter up and down but nada. So, I am curious why the "pop the brake" worked AND if it recurs, what to track down.

Thanks! Popped the brakes as suggested and it started. Not sure if causal or temporal related but what is the logic behind the brake "pop"?

tried in neutral. no difference. i will try the brake back in a few minutes

2005 OB Automatic New Battery Parked car after 10 minutes car wouldn't start. In the past I occasionally had issues where I would have to jiggle the gear shifter to get it started but it always then started. I don't know if this is the same issue or unrelated. Am going back with a wire to jump from the battery to the starter solenoid to see if anything happens. Would that work if the safety switch is shot or is there a relay I need to check (and how do I do that?) Please don't let me misdirect with misinformation so any thoughts appreciated.

Local Autozone and Advanced Auto have them here in CT. Racks of various fasteners. Various sizes as well as combo packs.

If they don't pay in the allotted time (determined by the court) then you will need a marshal to get your money. All costs associated with marshal, additional fees AND interest are added to your judgment. As I suggested earlier, have a friend pay them by check if possible and then you can see where they bank and freeze their account until they settle up with you. THAT will get their attention.

Thanks for the research FT4 Agreed about the bearing appearance as n/a to my project. Still puzzled why SOA has such a spread where the fronts are way more than the rear (F- 198 R-109) as compared to B/A (F-80 R-94) I'll post back when the project is done and the growling beast tamed.

bearings and hub/bearings Here's a page for front hub/bearing combo as well as listing for 2 different bearings (one rear and one front) The bearings are made by "National" and csr says made in good ole USA. BUT are they even wheel bearings??? I'm gonna keep my day job.

oops sorry i missed the details. 2005 OB. rear is worse than front but was pricing it out in case i did both. search at Advance Auto brought up bearings as well as hub/bearing combo. if i go with the combo i will monkey around with the heat and cold method on the old one. as i mentioned the price of soa is better than BeckArnley. fronts are pricey with either.

Well it looks like SubaruPartsForYou.com which is online but local to me has the genuine parts for the rear bearing for less than the Beck and Arnley. So I guess I'll go genuine for that. For those trying to save a few bucks, does it make sense to replace just the bearing or if paying someone to do the job, labor wise, just bolt on the new assembly. I was googling around before I came across the hub/bearing assembly and found a clever youtube video "pressing" a bearing in without a press. Basically put the hub in an oven, put the bearing in a freezer and then once at altered temps and shrinkage/expansion has been achieved, you can just drop the bearing into the hub. Start viewing at 8:42 where the fun begins. Wonder if the grease is affected as the temperatures reach equilibrium.Oh well, not for the feint of heart or those whose wife wouldn't let you muck up the oven.

SOA quoting $109 rear and $198 front hub/wheel bearing. I see a number of online suppliers selling them in the $50-60 range. Fair amount of labor and more important dirty job so would prefer some longevity. Any recommendations welcome.

Did you use Stop Slip or Trans-X as per the sacred post on this site? If your filler tube looks anything like the one in the video, probably best to bite the bullet than monkey around with "Maybe Seal". One and done is best in this case.

++ Lucky Texan I posted this solution many years ago after a tip from a SOA tech. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/57446-wind-noise/?hl=%2Bwind+%2Bnoise&do=findComment&comment=463928 and here with pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4377-drivers-window-wind-noise-fix/

Have a friend pay them with a check. Once they deposit the check and you see where they bank, you can get a court order and hire a marshall through the court to seize/freeze their bank account. All fees paid by you will be added to the judgment.

well i would have suggested a nut buster but you would be the best judge of space requirements.