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brus brother

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Everything posted by brus brother

  1. oops sorry i missed the details. 2005 OB. rear is worse than front but was pricing it out in case i did both. search at Advance Auto brought up bearings as well as hub/bearing combo. if i go with the combo i will monkey around with the heat and cold method on the old one. as i mentioned the price of soa is better than BeckArnley. fronts are pricey with either.
  2. Well it looks like SubaruPartsForYou.com which is online but local to me has the genuine parts for the rear bearing for less than the Beck and Arnley. So I guess I'll go genuine for that. For those trying to save a few bucks, does it make sense to replace just the bearing or if paying someone to do the job, labor wise, just bolt on the new assembly. I was googling around before I came across the hub/bearing assembly and found a clever youtube video "pressing" a bearing in without a press. Basically put the hub in an oven, put the bearing in a freezer and then once at altered temps and shrinkage/expansion has been achieved, you can just drop the bearing into the hub. Start viewing at 8:42 where the fun begins. Wonder if the grease is affected as the temperatures reach equilibrium.Oh well, not for the feint of heart or those whose wife wouldn't let you muck up the oven.
  3. SOA quoting $109 rear and $198 front hub/wheel bearing. I see a number of online suppliers selling them in the $50-60 range. Fair amount of labor and more important dirty job so would prefer some longevity. Any recommendations welcome.
  4. Did you use Stop Slip or Trans-X as per the sacred post on this site? If your filler tube looks anything like the one in the video, probably best to bite the bullet than monkey around with "Maybe Seal". One and done is best in this case.
  5. ++ Lucky Texan I posted this solution many years ago after a tip from a SOA tech. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/57446-wind-noise/?hl=%2Bwind+%2Bnoise&do=findComment&comment=463928 and here with pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4377-drivers-window-wind-noise-fix/
  6. Have a friend pay them with a check. Once they deposit the check and you see where they bank, you can get a court order and hire a marshall through the court to seize/freeze their bank account. All fees paid by you will be added to the judgment.
  7. well i would have suggested a nut buster but you would be the best judge of space requirements.
  8. I found the noise source to be related to the "mode" selector on the HVAC unit. Thought I had pressed, tested, banged, kicked every button but retracing my steps, the sound stopped when I hit the mode switch. Perhaps it was stuck between "modes". After a while, the sound had begun to sound as if the cd player was searching for a track or new disc, but that was not the case. Glad I didn't tear into the center dash on a search and destroy mission!
  9. 1. Did you buy the car from a Subaru dealer? How much was the policy? 2. Are they really insuring a car sight unseen? Then that is their fault and not yours. There can be any number of hidden faults and that is exactly what you are insuring yourself against! 3. Find out who is underwriting the insurance policy. 4. Contact the local Attorney General's office. No way should you give even an inch on this one!
  10. Hey Nipper, How old/new are the struts? How did you eliminate them from the differential diagnosis?
  11. There are a number of on-line parts dealers that are actually based out of Subaru dealerships. SubaruPartsForYou.com is local to me here in CT so I can walk in and ask for the internet or shop price. They are very helpful so if you are unsure, give them a call. Ask for John and mention USMB as they do run specials now and again with free shipping offers. I forget the name but there was another such dealership/online seller local to NJ that I used a few years ago before my local dealer got into the game.
  12. 05 Outback started 2 weeks ago. tweeting sound more noticeable in cabin no rhythm not related to engine speed happens when car idling at stop or in motion not related to brake (foot on pedal or not) no cd in player no radio on erratic - doesn't happen all the time and I have yet to be able to hear it in the engine bay (listened at alternator) doesn't seem like the dashboard is creaking Is there any type of relay that could cause this sound. May or may not be related but just after the noise began (two weeks ago) my battery inexplicably died - car wouldn't start (5 years old) but then was able to take a charge. I posted about this last week and just ended up replacing the battery which so far is performing fine.
  13. no cd stuck replaced battery today sticker on old one indicated 7/10 so at or near the 5 year mark the rest of the discussion is academic at this point
  14. Car started without issue and was run for about 20 minutes before the first test that resulted in the "replace battery" reading. Similarly, car was run for about 20 minutes before the second test (good-recharge) BTW: looking at the test results, is there any explanation for the variable CCA readings? The battery is rated as 640 CCA. The initial test result (replace battery) was 559 @ 130 degrees and the second (good battery result) was 544 @ 136 degrees. Each of these represents a reduction of about 15% BTW2: I had disabled the seatbelt chime in the past but after this "dead battery" episode, while the radio presets were ok, the seatbelt chime is back to factory setting.
  15. Sorry if I wasn't clear. New Walmart battery not installed yet. Existing battery that tested bad then good is of uncertain age but probably close to 5 years. Terminals are tight and don't appear to have any corrosion and are slathered in dielectric grease. Overnight reading 12.65 volts I will try to find my hygrometer to compare cells. There is electrolyte visible in each cell.
  16. The first store told me that the system couldn't be checked any further with a reading of "replace battery". I took the rep's word but then did go and get the second opinion and that was the complete readout. The second one says the battery is good... that was about one hours worth of highway driving after the death sentence... Still puzzled.
  17. Suddenly today, my 05 OB wouldn't start. Click, click, click, click but no start. Jumped the battery and it started right up. Figured battery at end of life so drove it to Advanced Auto for a free evaluation. Rep hooked up machine and got a readout "Replace Battery" Drove a while longer (bought a replacement from Walmart) and then figured I'd check again so went to a different Advanced Auto and it now appears to pass. I have attached both printouts. The "replace battery" was the first. Any feedback appreciated.
  18. Are the cv boots torn? That is one funky smell when that grease splashes around the engine bay.
  19. Not sure (other members please confirm) but I read somewhere that if you use a temperature gun and scan the front joint and the rear joint of a catalytic converter that the rear should be approximately 70-80 degrees hotter.
  20. I recall a problem with the seal between the lens and the body. Try good ole duct tape around the lens and see if that eliminates the leak. If it works, you will need to remove the lens and use a sealant as described and linked below on the forum. Did a search (leaking tail light) here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/83830-how-to-remove-forester-tailight-assembly/ It talks about a ribbon of butyl sealer from windshield installers to reseat/reseal the lens against the body. BTW to remove the duct tape adhesive left behind after the test, the best and least aggressive method is olive or any really any vegetable oil on a rag. This works for any adhesive, tar, etc.
  21. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html Start at the bottom of the link and scroll up. There are a number of ways of disarming the alarm. It does appear that that ring with the bare wires should be where the button "was" Also check out: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/51816-cleaning-battery-terminals-flashing-lights.html and screen shot below.
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