brus brother

I wonder if the PB Blaster has finally worked after 7 years...

Just one question... those 20 posts... is that standard or metric?

I have a 2005 as well. There is a method to disable the dings. I'll do a search of my posts and report back. Found it: Turn the ignition key to on but DO NOT start the car. Now buckle and unbuckle the drivers seatbelt about ten or fifteen times QUICKLY and then turn the ignition key to off. Now turn the key on and start the car as normal. If you were successful as I was on my 05 OB, the chime will chime 5 times when you first turn the key to on and then stop. It will also disable the seatbelt warning for the passenger seat.

It appears from a search for these parts from Autozone that the front and rear rotors are a direct fit for these years.

Get thee to a dealer and let them explain this new fangled option ;-)

what nipper said +1. I live in CT and use subarupartsforyou.com in Milford CT (Perkins dealership) They happen to be local to me and their prices are very competitive.

What Emily said. Don't be alarmed by the light show. The check engine and blinking cruise control lights come on when you throw a code. My CE and CC lights are on most of the time on my 05 OB due to a naggy P0420 emissions control issue. In your case it may be tied to the ABS so I would be a little more concerned. Get the codes read at Autozone or whatever local parts supply store offers a freebie test and then report back with their readout. Oh and almost forgot, welcome to the board.

Developed a clunking r rear 2005 OB. Inspected all components (I thought) but it was snowy and wet. Subie tech showed me play in r rear sway bar link. OK I thought that should fix it but the sound wasn't coming from there. As things dried out, I could see the r rear shock was leaking and rocking the car by pulling on the roof rack elicited the sound. It has gotten progressively worse and next week will have swaybar links and shocks replaced. Too much mess without a lift.

What Nipper said... check the cv boots. If torn/leaking and splattering grease onto the cat, it makes an awful stink. Are there any other visible leaks/drips on garage floor. My 05 just started weeping at the power steering pump, pooling ATF on the top of the engine (this one is an easy o-ring fix). These engines also exhibit external head gasket leaks and mine has a small oil seepage around the HG. I have been running my 05 with the 0420 for the past 50K miles. Occasionally the code goes away by itself and for whatever reason. I have come to believe that the spec is too tight and the code gets thrown. I have been able to erase the code and reset the systems to pass emissions testing for the past 6 years. Car runs great. Your gas mileage seems low so as others suggested, a tuneup should be the first order of business. As far as cat cleaners, it's hard to believe that anything can survive an engine's combustion and still have any "soluble/dissolving" effect by the time it reaches the cat. As is the case with many cures in a can, it will at the least clean out your wallet.

If possible, ask the dealer to let you take another 15 OB or even another model year out for a spin. Under the same circumstances, see if this is a design "feature" or flaw. Need to compare apples to apples. tbolt, do you have snow tires on your Imprezza? Unless there is ice beneath the snow, all of my Subies have gone in the snow. Sometimes I need to back off on the gas to let it grip.

If you suspect something wrong with the rear tires, swap tires front to rear and see if the noise travels with them.

Um...black atf? I hope it wasn't the engine oil you drained! I've read here that is a common mistake at quick lube joints...

Had intermittent 0420 for the past 6 years on my 2005 OB. Changed 2 passenger side O2 sensors (my car has 5 in all) but refuse to change cat. Car runs great. Once in a while, the light goes out for a while. I bought a cheap scanner for about $18 on ebay that erases the codes and there is a sequence to reset the systems so I can pass emissions every 2 years. Don't mean to be a polluter. I just think these model years are just set too sensitive on the parameters which is why the light will go out on its own now and then. Right now it's off. Had a piece of black tape in front of the lights for a while but not wanting to attract attention, I removed it for emissions testing and never replaced it.

Great info. Pep Boys has 35% off right now on KYB.

Things dried out enough to see that the right rear shock is leaking/shot. Any suggestions other than Subaru brand? Not looking for any super performance upgrade just function. Autozone and Pep Boys have specials on KYB (they must be good... they have 3 initials in the name?)

Yup, Subaru HG problems seem to have gained such notoriety that a flat tire will elicit a sales pitch for new head gaskets.

I am trying to track down a dull rattling sound in the right rear of my 05 OB. It is not speed related. The exhaust is not touching the body. I can create the sound by rocking the car by grabbing the roof rails and also by pushing on the rear bumper. I know the sway bar link on that side has a lot of play in it but can't recreate the sound by wiggling the links. Can these links make sounds when badly worn or is there just a decrease in stability? The shocks seem to be behaving properly but that would be my second guess. How can I access the shock tower to feel if the rattle is coming from the shock? There's still too much snow here for me to get a good look.

I'm still going for the drain at the front of the windshield. Don't spray the entire windshield. Get a small funnel and run water JUST down that hole and see if your leak appears. Fingers crossed.

NEWWEBSITE or call Anthony at Dan Perkins Subaru Parts department and tell him about the ad. I'll try and post the email ad below:

Moderators, I know this is not in the right forum but since the offer is for one week only, I thought I would push it up front here where members are more likely to stumble upon it while replacing whatever doohicky has recently become problematic. Subarupartsforyou.com is offering additional 10% off its online prices plus free shipping until 3/1/15 These guys are local to me here in CT and have always been fair.

Local for me, they have always provided great service. Hope the timing works for you. Looks like the deal ends 3/1/15. FREE next day shipping too.

Is this a bluetooth reader having issues pairing or a standard reader? Have you gone to Autozone or any local retailer that offer a free read to compare and see if there is actually something wrong with your scanner?

Open the hatch and bang away. Do you still have the sound? If not, do as forrester2002s suggests and wrap some tape around the latch bar on the body of the car. If there is still noise with the hatch open (and you have the interior panels off to see inside the hatch) then check to see if the actuator bars for the lock mechanism aren't the source of your rattle. You can slit open a thin rubber tube and slide it over the rod if that is the case. Get someone to do the banging while you are poking around. Those bars were my problem in the past.

Unless you backed into the person behind you, they are responsible for hitting you AND pushing you into the car ahead of you. Get the information from the lead car and proceed from there. No one is talking about the Land Rover's damage and you following too closely. You were pushed into that car. Evaluate and get an estimate of your damage and call the person asking if they want to pay out of pocket or have you file an insurance claim with their carrier. Most times they will say go for the insurance. Simple and easy. You should be able to reclaim any deductible since they are at fault. If they blow you off, contact the police department and ask them how to proceed. You don't know for sure that the lead car hasn't already filed a claim and is walking around with a neck brace and then YOU will be at fault for not notifying your carrier. Many years ago, I was rear ended by a Lincoln Continental while driving a P1800 (2 seater) Volvo. Very mismatched duel. Destroyed the car but I felt pretty good. Woke up the next morning and could not get out of bed. Swelling around cervical vertebrae doesn't occur immediately. Stuff happens. That crack is not going to go away by itself. If it were me, I'd want my car restored to the pre-accident condition and perhaps have one of those tree shaped air fresheners thrown in to boot for my inconvenience.

"and noticed ps fluid at the base of the reservoir" meant that it was along the external rim of the reservoir not that the level had dropped that much. The pump area is pretty wet all over so I can't see where the leak starts. Found a couple of tips like the return hose gets brittle and doesn't seal when cold and this one http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/108746-leaking-power-steering-pump.html that speaks of the o-ring where the return hose attaches at the top. As Fairtax noted on GF's car, mine began when we started hitting near record lows for CT around 0°. How do they manage in Alaska?! As the car warms up, the noise goes away.