brus brother

Noticed noise the other day. Coldest this year around 10°. Whining that at first I thought was the alternator failing BUT noise changed when I turned the wheel to either side. Noticed power steering fluid a little low and topped it off. Same sound today and noticed ps fluid at the base of the reservoir (I don't think I spilled any when topping up) and the power steering pump and surround is noticeably wet. Noise seems to go away as the car warms up. What usually fails on these units? Is the pump serviceable? All and any suggestions accepted.

Well this is a first! Normally people discover the "virgin" switch by accident and complain that they can't turn their lights OFF! There is a rocker switch on the steering column right behind the steering wheel. Flip the switch and your lights stay on. Apparently it is a requirement in some European countries. Oh, and don't forget to switch it off when not needed as it is also referred to as the battery kill switch by Subaru techs since it kills batteries because people hit it by mistake while cleaning or resetting the odometer!

Well if you are hell bent on keeping the flip phone (I understand) there is a workaround. "Rent" a smartphone from WalMart (14 day return policy) and use the wifi component to download anything you want without having a data plan (or any plan for that matter activated). Once you transfer the apps or whatever it is they require via bluetooth etc, hop into your new Subaru and return the phone to WalMart with a "thank you very much" and you will be back to the world of the flip phone.

As Nipper suggests, the Subie dealership I use does farm it out but invoice it themselves. I just wanted all the related work (tire balancing and alignment) done on one invoice so there wouldn't be any shifting of responsibility.

I posted there a while ago as well. My 2015 was scaring the heck out of me. In the end, new tires and balancing and all wheel alignment by Subie dealer and the issue disappeared. The alignment was off to the point that each corner of the car was fighting for supremacy. Common things occur most commonly. I hope your resolution is as simple.

I suggest that you print out this thread and bring it to a service manager and ask that they get an answer from SOA. They are generally responsive. Ask to make an appointment with district manager if they baulk. Show them that yours is not an isolated issue. There may be a simple explanation... and if so, you deserve one. If not, ask them to fix it.

Got a little lost in the reading but if I understood correctly, could you swap your son's 2002 sensors into your 2001 come lately? Would they be the same auto to manual if the years were correct? Don't suppose you saved the old sensors? If they were original Subaru installations that could also give you some idea if you are on the right trail. Hate to suggest opening a can of worms that could end with both cars messed up.

Does this by any chance have the overhead map light/warning module. My 05 OB had a similar problem and it turned out to be some electrical gremlin in there giving false readings. Replaced unit, 2 screws 2 connectors $85(IIRC) out of pocket, and problem solved.

Phew. At least you didn't end up lap dancing with the deer. Wishing a speedy recovery for the OB.

Rear diff unaffected by TB or HG work. Honestly I am ashamed to say I haven't done my diff fluid in ... well never. Note to self... If you just do the timing belt, the oil/coolant won't drain out. If you decide to do the TB and HG together, the coolant will be drained out and can be changed at that time. Once they open up the engine to do a HG job, changing the TB and idlers is right there. In other words, they have to remove the TB to do the HGs. 200 miles isn't that far BUT as I said earlier, not knowing the history, you can't predict when the tb or idlers will give out. If the TB snaps or idlers give out and the engine jumps timing, you will smash the valves and cause serious damage . Search "interference engine". After you do some noodling of the car's history, if the TB needs to be done, have the car inspected for any seepage around the area of the HGs. Even oil seeping will be a nuisance once it starts dripping on the exhaust. If finances are limited at this time, just do the TB/idler but if seepage, consider that you are halfway through the engine labor wise and should do the HGs. Once done, you will have 105K miles of worry free driving. You can then post something like "Nothing wrong with my car, just lonely so I thought I would visit the USMB" Best of luck to you and your son. There are Subie mechanics at my local dealership that work after hours so I would ask around if you can't find a reputable indie with Subaru experience.

A mechanic familiar with Subarus (independent or dealer) would be best able to diagnose if there is a budding head gasket issue. Are there any maintenance records that would indicate if the timing belt/water pump were done? Subaru of America may be able to access these records for you based on VIN#. Common wisdom on the site is to do the HGs when you do the TB and replace the stock HG with the version designed for the turbo model. Definitely adds to the expense but also adds to the peace of mind. There are many discussions on the issue here at USMB. It may never leak, it may leak next week. This site gets reports and discusses problems. I am sure there are people driving around blissfully unaware and may never have the issue OR never think to report the issue when it occurs. I have never seen any threads here from people who were seeking advice for a car that was running perfectly with no issues. Don't mean to be an alarmist. Just mean to inform you here. Sincerely hope your purchase is worry free but for expert advice (mine not necessarily in this category) the members here are extremely helpful and generous with their expertise.

Welcome to the board. Did a mechanic knowledgeable with Subarus check the car before you bought it? This era needs a conditioner added to the coolant system to forestall external head gasket leaks. Check to see if this was done as I seem to remember it was part of a recall initially. Subsequent coolant system changes would need it added again. The common area for this leak is at the rear of the engine on the drivers side, though there can be seepage elsewhere. Check the CV boots to make sure they aren't torn. Small fix now before the joint gets all gritted up. Check all fluids. Rear diff as well. When as the timing belt done on this car. While they are scheduled at 105K miles, a 2001 would be overdue considering the years. Good luck with the car. It has some serious storage room for your son to haul crap back and forth to college.

2005 Outback AT It's a little too cold to be climbing under the car right now, but would appreciate some tips on where to look. Sounds like when front cv joints are going bad... thought the rears were indestructible. I guess the grease wouldn't cook on the engine back there so there hasn't been any of that tell tale smell.

Snap traps. Peanut butter.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19317-diy-2005-outback-cabin-air-filter-replacement.html You might want to combine the two posts you started or delete one. As I mentioned, the early 05s had a design flaw that hindered installation of the tray that holds the filter. The above link (googled subaru cabin filter replacement) describes taking apart a great deal of the interior as well as someone who just cut a hole and slid it in.

I went through this exercise with my 05 OB. There was an engineering flaw in the original 05's that prevented the installation/retrieval of the cabin filter, so they just left it out! I will look later if I still have the invoice for the parts. At the time SOA paid a portion of the bill for their tech to do the job. As I recall, there is a retrofit apparatus that allows the installation of the filter. It was a real pita to do the job and I haven't changed the filter since...

Too bad you can't use pex like tubing where the lines are within the car and then slip a braided metal protector over the exposed areas. Easy connection and routing. Now that would be simple AND be impermeable to the effects of salt.

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/subaru-recalls-660-000-autos-brake-line-rust-n147361 The above recall affects 2005+ cars but I would certainly call SOA and cry them a river... how you've been a loyal customer blah blah blah and ask them if you should contact NHTSA on their behalf since their cars are meant to stay on the road for many years and how many other owners are unaware of this serious condition.

My local subie dealer's parts department scrounged up an old key like mine from their junk draw and said I was welcome to the circuit board. Now that's service! Ooops. Went to pick it up... wrong key case. Just bought one on eBay for $18 shipped. It is a used key but I only need the innards and not a blank key to be cut.

Keyless remote was not working on my 08 Outback. It's the square key with the 4 buttons pictured below. Battery was weak so I changed it. Followed the instructions in the manual. Tried syncing it using the press unlock or lock six times but still didn't work. Tried reprogramming the system using the owner's manual procedure and it accepted the code but still doesn't work. Key works to lock car/start engine. Any other suggestions? I see there is a circuit board internal that can be changed out but haven't been able to source this. Any suggestions or one for sale?

I seriously doubt the few drops driven in a car wash are indicative of the source of your problem. I get that on my car on the rare occasion that it goes through the wringer at the dealership (free washes with my lifetime free oil changes deal). One problem at a time now. If you are talking about wind noise from the windows, the likely culprit is the triangular piece in the corner of the window. On some cars there is a tweeter installed in this triangle. Anyways, this piece gets deformed from people closing the door using the window or pressing against the window when getting out of the car in tight spaces. My 2005 Outback had this problem and after a tech replaced this piece under warranty, he showed me how to pinch the piece back into shape. Result was no more wind noise. I posted the technique at the following link with pictures. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4377-drivers-window-wind-noise-fix/

Did you make sure the drain hole at the cowling isn't clogged? Pour water into the area where the little hole is. If it drains beneath the car, look elsewhere for problems. If your passenger side floor gets wet...

See post #3 in this thread for clarification/suggestions.

Did you try pouring water in the hole in the lower corner of the cowling below the windshield? It should drain out behind the fron wheel.

http://static-forums.fatwallet.com/static/attachments/439521_scan_pic0001.jpg The above link has coupons to a variety of somewhat useful stuff from Harbor Freight Tools. Coupons are valid until 2/15 The coupons are for FREE items and some require no purchase. Walk right in take coupon or scan from smart phone to cashier and you're on your way. There is a multimeter in the mix that you should have in your kit and learn its applications. Free with no purchase required. It's good enough for what you are looking for here. I wouldn't trust their torque wrench if you were doing HG's but a free wire brush or pick set or a tarp, count me in.