brus brother

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19317-diy-2005-outback-cabin-air-filter-replacement.html You might want to combine the two posts you started or delete one. As I mentioned, the early 05s had a design flaw that hindered installation of the tray that holds the filter. The above link (googled subaru cabin filter replacement) describes taking apart a great deal of the interior as well as someone who just cut a hole and slid it in.

I went through this exercise with my 05 OB. There was an engineering flaw in the original 05's that prevented the installation/retrieval of the cabin filter, so they just left it out! I will look later if I still have the invoice for the parts. At the time SOA paid a portion of the bill for their tech to do the job. As I recall, there is a retrofit apparatus that allows the installation of the filter. It was a real pita to do the job and I haven't changed the filter since...

Too bad you can't use pex like tubing where the lines are within the car and then slip a braided metal protector over the exposed areas. Easy connection and routing. Now that would be simple AND be impermeable to the effects of salt.

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/subaru-recalls-660-000-autos-brake-line-rust-n147361 The above recall affects 2005+ cars but I would certainly call SOA and cry them a river... how you've been a loyal customer blah blah blah and ask them if you should contact NHTSA on their behalf since their cars are meant to stay on the road for many years and how many other owners are unaware of this serious condition.

My local subie dealer's parts department scrounged up an old key like mine from their junk draw and said I was welcome to the circuit board. Now that's service! Ooops. Went to pick it up... wrong key case. Just bought one on eBay for $18 shipped. It is a used key but I only need the innards and not a blank key to be cut.

Keyless remote was not working on my 08 Outback. It's the square key with the 4 buttons pictured below. Battery was weak so I changed it. Followed the instructions in the manual. Tried syncing it using the press unlock or lock six times but still didn't work. Tried reprogramming the system using the owner's manual procedure and it accepted the code but still doesn't work. Key works to lock car/start engine. Any other suggestions? I see there is a circuit board internal that can be changed out but haven't been able to source this. Any suggestions or one for sale?

I seriously doubt the few drops driven in a car wash are indicative of the source of your problem. I get that on my car on the rare occasion that it goes through the wringer at the dealership (free washes with my lifetime free oil changes deal). One problem at a time now. If you are talking about wind noise from the windows, the likely culprit is the triangular piece in the corner of the window. On some cars there is a tweeter installed in this triangle. Anyways, this piece gets deformed from people closing the door using the window or pressing against the window when getting out of the car in tight spaces. My 2005 Outback had this problem and after a tech replaced this piece under warranty, he showed me how to pinch the piece back into shape. Result was no more wind noise. I posted the technique at the following link with pictures. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4377-drivers-window-wind-noise-fix/

Did you make sure the drain hole at the cowling isn't clogged? Pour water into the area where the little hole is. If it drains beneath the car, look elsewhere for problems. If your passenger side floor gets wet...

See post #3 in this thread for clarification/suggestions.

Did you try pouring water in the hole in the lower corner of the cowling below the windshield? It should drain out behind the fron wheel.

http://static-forums.fatwallet.com/static/attachments/439521_scan_pic0001.jpg The above link has coupons to a variety of somewhat useful stuff from Harbor Freight Tools. Coupons are valid until 2/15 The coupons are for FREE items and some require no purchase. Walk right in take coupon or scan from smart phone to cashier and you're on your way. There is a multimeter in the mix that you should have in your kit and learn its applications. Free with no purchase required. It's good enough for what you are looking for here. I wouldn't trust their torque wrench if you were doing HG's but a free wire brush or pick set or a tarp, count me in.

I have the 05 OB. The HG leak on these cars is external. Adding Subaru's coolant additive should cover you there. You will get some oil seepage though. After doing the 105 mile TB service, I developed an external HG oil leak that drips onto the exhaust. When it's time for the TB service (105,000 miles OR 8 years) have them do the head gaskets, using the turbo gaskets as described on USMB for added assurance. BTW, I bought that same car for my daughter when she was in high school. It is one zippy little car compared to the OB. When I sold it, there was signs of the oil seepage beginning on the car.

Your question was what was left "open"... to interpretation. Below from The Pink Panther Strikes Again: Clouseau: [sees dog in hotel lobby and directs question to clerk] Does your dog bite? Hotel Clerk: No. Clouseau: [bowing down to pet the dog] Nice doggie. [Dog barks and bites Clouseau on the hand] Clouseau: I thought you said your dog did not bite! Hotel Clerk: That is not my dog.

That was exactly what I experienced when my pads were binding in the brackets. Not sure what was rubbing but once I adjusted the tabs to allow the pads to float free the noise disappeared. Initially, I was checking around to see if the dust shield was rubbing as this had been mentioned somewhere in my reading but it did turn out to be the pad fit. Check to make sure you don't have any rust lodged in the bracket area.

I had a similar problem. Turns out the pads were too tight in the brackets. Check to make sure the tabs aren't binding. I had to take a file to remove some of the excess paint and the squealing stopped.

And here all along I thought this was a Subaru site?! I haven't owned anything but Subarus since 1984 so I wasn't much interested in those "others".

Subaru: 17,516 total number of potentially affected vehicles 2003 – 2005 Baja 2003 – 2005 Legacy 2003 – 2005 Outback 2003 – 2005 Baja 2004 – 2005 Impreza http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/list-recalled-vehicles-potentially-faulty-air-bags-n230741Check your VIN here : http://www.subaru.com/vehicle-recalls.html

Well, since it was impossible to access and super clean the area for JB or anything for that matter (hindsight I guess I could have sandblasted the area) I am counting on the tenacity of the silicone to bond to the adjacent rusty exhaust pipe and seal the crack. I extended the silicone beyond the thin crack and am hoping that the flexibility of the silicone might work to my advantage. If the bandage fails, I will arrange for a buddy with a lift to cut open the bottom brace enough to get rid of the silicone and weld the crack. Likely, this methodology will not make it to the Subaru Repair Manual section of the site. I was just glad that there was a high temp silicone to try out.

Agreed but then I would lose the Vrooom Boy Racer look! In the current configuration the pipe splits and then goes to two mufflers before it reaches the bumper. So, for now the $5 tube of 500 degree high temp silicone is working and since the defect was just a crack in the weld at the crotch of the Y it seems structurally sound, not relying on the caulk for integrity. I gooped in a couple of layers of silicone, allowing to dry between applications, hoping to get an additive sealing effect since I was unable to really clean the surface of the crack. If it fails, not much has been lost. There's more silicone left in the tube!

$110 per hour

Agreed on the heat shields though Smokey the Bear might disagree. In my case however, shroud might not have been the best terminology. As you can see, it's more of a brace/support at a Y junction behind the rear cat. As it is, there appears to have been a crack at the "crotch" of the Y and I don’t think it wants to be any less supported by removing the brace.

Agreed on the heat shields though Smokey the Bear might disagree. In my case however, shroud might not have been the best terminology. As you can see, it's more of a brace/support at a Y junction behind the rear cat. As it is, there appears to have been a crack at the "crotch" of the Y and I don’t think it wants to be any less supported by removing the brace.

Heh Heh another virgin down. Known by Subie techs as the battery kill switch.

Ah, the 6P Rule: Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

Never done a tb but reading these posts, I always wondered why the hell are there arrows... Is it some kind of gotcha that engineers laugh over at lunch?