brus brother

Agreed but then I would lose the Vrooom Boy Racer look! In the current configuration the pipe splits and then goes to two mufflers before it reaches the bumper. So, for now the $5 tube of 500 degree high temp silicone is working and since the defect was just a crack in the weld at the crotch of the Y it seems structurally sound, not relying on the caulk for integrity. I gooped in a couple of layers of silicone, allowing to dry between applications, hoping to get an additive sealing effect since I was unable to really clean the surface of the crack. If it fails, not much has been lost. There's more silicone left in the tube!

$110 per hour

Agreed on the heat shields though Smokey the Bear might disagree. In my case however, shroud might not have been the best terminology. As you can see, it's more of a brace/support at a Y junction behind the rear cat. As it is, there appears to have been a crack at the "crotch" of the Y and I don’t think it wants to be any less supported by removing the brace.

Agreed on the heat shields though Smokey the Bear might disagree. In my case however, shroud might not have been the best terminology. As you can see, it's more of a brace/support at a Y junction behind the rear cat. As it is, there appears to have been a crack at the "crotch" of the Y and I don’t think it wants to be any less supported by removing the brace.

Heh Heh another virgin down. Known by Subie techs as the battery kill switch.

Ah, the 6P Rule: Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

Never done a tb but reading these posts, I always wondered why the hell are there arrows... Is it some kind of gotcha that engineers laugh over at lunch?

Heard a small puffing exhaust leak on my 08 OB. It appears the source was inside a shroud at the y junction behind the rear cat where it splits to the 2 rear mufflers. Cost of the piece which contains the rear cat and the pipe is around $400. Local welder said for $150 minimum he would remove the shroud (there is one on top and one below} that protects/fortifies the Y joint and try to weld it. He was complimentary of Subaru exhaust metal and said he might be successful. Furnace repair tech gave me high temp (500 deg) bright red silicone sealant in a caulking tube with a long nozzle. I was able to inject into the crotch area without removing the shroud and while the metal wasn't clean, it seems to have done the trick... for now. The price was right! I'm going to keep the sealant next to my duct tape for emergency repairs.

Not sure from the description or images but could you split a small length of thin rubber hose and wrap it around the latch area in in the center of the hatch? Is it the actual door that is rattling?

Now THIS is the ultimate "club" deterrent!

Close Encounters of the Subaru Kind

This from the above linked article about "The Club" and lack of effectiveness. One responder wrote that they had mapped a kill switch: "If you want to protect your car from theft, install a killswitch for your ignition. It doesn’t allow the car to be started unless the switch is pressed. Mine is mapped to the AM/FM button on my stereo" Not sure how to do this.

I know LoJack has a yearly subscription fee but there is a program called Prey that can be installed on any android device, laptop etc. I installed it on my college kid's computer and it is very handy for locating lost or stolen devices. Perhaps there is an easy solution here since we have 12V power supply already on board. Any techies here that want to suggest a cheap means to this end? There is no subscription fee. Apparently though you need connection to internet. In the instance of a stolen laptop, you can actually institute a blaring alarm. Here I guess the goal would be stealth tracking. Make it cheap and they will come. Some MacGyver is already on the job: http://lifehacker.com/5961165/use-prey-and-an-old-smartphone-as-a-tracking-device-for-a-lost-or-stolen-bike Then again, if they can"t even find the Malaysian airliner...

PS leaks always lead me to suspect a clogged drain line from the AC unit or the cowling beneath the windshield. For the windscreen area, try pouring water into the small hole at the PS cowling area (usually covered by leaves). This should find its way out beneath the car in the same general area. For the AC unit, run the AC or defroster and then park on dry pavement. You should see water dripping out below the PS area just behind the wheel well.

That exact one works great for me and does have readiness monitor.

It's been a while but as I recall from my 1990 Loyale, there is a wind-up mechanism on one end of the cover. I think I just wound it up like you would a window shade. Also found the following with some instructions that go beyond my failing memory: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/4337-unsprung-cargo-cover/

For the window wind noise, there is a very old post on USMB of a tip given to me by a SOA tech. The following applies to front doors (not sure about rear windows being frameless?). Open window. Now take the upper point of the triangle that holds the speaker assembly between your fingers and give it a squeeze. Test drive and repeat until the noise is gone. That area becomes distorted from people using the unsupported (no frame) window to open and close the door.

1-3-2-4 why not find something you can drop the motor from your recent wreck into? The front 1/2 of your old car survived, didn't it? What did insurance have to say about value/settlement? Sorry if off topic.

I-95? and how fast were you backing up when you struck her vehicle? ;-) glad you passed the crash test.

FIXED I have been using Autozone Gold Lifetime brake pads and recently noticed that they were slapping more paint on the pad's metal backing than usual. When I tried to remove the pads, they were REAL tight in the metal guide plates. This probably distorted the metal enough for it to just touch the rotor. I don't recall them being that tight when I first installed them but who knows... Old Timers Disease setting in! Anyway, scraped some rust out of the area where the plates sit and then filed down the tabs on the pads themselves so they fit passively within the guides. No more noise gremlins.

FIXED see below post #6 2008 Outback AT. Sounds like the brake wear indicator but pads are newish and plenty of meat left. Sound is not continuous when occurring but cyclical with the rotation of the wheels. Happens when car has been driven and warmed up. If I depress the brake pedal while driving, it disappears. If I lift the emergency brake lever up slightly while driving, it disappears. Sometimes it starts after I've gone around a turn (as if something is tilting into contact??) Sound seems to come from the left rear wheel. When I pulled the wheel last time, I noticed a intermittent pattern of rust spots on the outward side of the rotor. Rotors are original and have never been resurfaced (86k miles) I plan on removing the wheel and pads tomorrow and cursing at it for starters. Any other suggestions?

At this point, don't tell your sister she got ripped off... only makes her feel bad. Take charge and follow Rooster2's suggestion that you handle car repairs in the future. Probably a little late to dispute charges... Is this Norwalk CT?

Well, that's a lesson that doesn't need to be learned the hard way!

I had the Goodyear triple tread on my 05 outback and after a short honeymoon, they were by far the noisiest tire I've ever driven. I now use the Kumho Ecsta bought locally matching the prices of Tire Rack.

Is the check engine light on? Is the cruise control light blinking? If so this is a CEL (check engine light) indicator of some fault. This automatically disconnects the Cruise Control function. See if there are any codes or codes pending.