brus brother

OK a little late on maintenance at 135K miles, I decided to check out the fuel filter. Turns out the only fuel filter is a "sock" inside the gas tank and according to SOA tech "we never change them". Anyone change/examine yours? While on the subject, this week I will be visiting a mechanic to track down the cause of an elusive P0420 that a data log interpretation is pointing to either vacuum leak or poor fuel delivery (perhaps both if I'm really unlucky?). Mechanic plans on "smoking" the car in search of any vacuum leak and then checking fuel pressure. Would you check pressure first or it doesn't matter? Few questions: 1. Can a fuel pump be failing (weak) without obvious symptoms over a period of 2 years and 30K miles? Since the dealer doesn't stock the pump, is this easily replaced? Any directions appreciated. 2. Where is the fuel pressure regulator? Same question about failing/weak fuel pressure regulator symptoms?? 3. Can the "sock" filter become coated and therefore ineffective? Doesn't look like it is replaceable.

Rom Raider website: First you need to download and install RR here: http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Download Now click on link: http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/GettingStarted#toc7 Read this page. There are links on the above page for 3 files that you need to unzip and add to the same Program File folder where RomRiader.exe file resides. 1. Ecu definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic360.html Scroll down to where you see this: Please do not host these definitions on your own site. Instead, provide a link to this post only. and you will see the files attached. 2. Logger definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1642&start=1 3. Car definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5792 Again, you need to place the unzipped folders in the same Program File folder for Rom Raider In each file above and the unzipped folders I selected std_En format. Other languages and metric are also available. Cardoc's excellent discussion thead on P0420 causes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis-19.html see post #186 by Cardoc I am running this program on WinXP laptop and was stymied for quite some time because I was trying to power off of cigarette ligher converter. RR was unable to make connection to ECU. Use battery or house current... when not driving ;-). Once you start RR, check to see that the correct port on computer is selected. Should be same as port listed in Computer/control panel/hardware/device manager/port. Check car defs to see if your car is listed. Mine wasn't but for the sake of logging, I chose a similar car from the same year. You will also be directed to select paramaters as shown on dashboard page. The program default is to start/stop logging using the rear defroster switch which prevents you from driving off the road while looking at your screen. If I exit the program, I seem to have to reboot to reset the port connection. PS I bought the VagCom cable from FleaBay for $9. Arrived in a week from China.

My case is the direct opposite of yours. If my wife drives the car on local streets, code stays off. If I heavy foot it or it's on the hwy for a while the code returns. My point is that with proper diagnosis of the underlying cause of the code, the mystery of when it occurs is thrown into the light. Information is power!

I am at the end of 2 years of P0420 and just started a new topic on Logical Analysis of P0420 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139618-p0420-logical-diagnosis-eventual-sticky/. In the meanwhile, I have passed emmissions two times. I have a $20 OBDII code reader that also clears the code. To reset the systems as ready (required to pass emissions), I then follow a fairly standard procedure of driving a very steady (no accelerator or brake) 50-55 mph for about 10 minutes then slow to a stop without touching the brakes then accelerate to 55 again. It is best to do with 1/2 tank of gas. Use the code reader again and all systems should now read "ready". Drive slowly to your emmissions center and you should pass.

First, a little history. 2005 Outback 2.5i AT wagon 135k miles. I have had the intermittent and recurring P0420 (warning: your catalytic converter is dying/dead) for about 30K miles so, in the interim, I may have already done irreparable damage to the cat(s). Consensus is that cats don't die, they are killed! When I first went to the dealer with the code, they said "You need a new cat". Well, yes that may be but without diagnosis of what caused the damage to the cat, I would need yet another new cat in short order. Cardoc on subaruoutback.org has an excellent writeup on possible causes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html With the use of a $10 VAGCOM OBDII to usb cable and RomRaider free software, I was able to log real time info on my car's performance. I am attaching the output zip file in the hopes of getting some help in proceeding with a cure for the underlying cause. If you want to follow this, my posting (username - Juicer) starts at #194 at the above link and in addition, off line, Cardoc's analysis of the data warns: "Check fuel delivery, pressure and check for vacuum leaks if the fuel pressure is good. Bank 1 is on the end of the fuel system, so if fuel flow is low, it will make bank 1 run lean, which is what is happening. The rear O2 sensors all show a lean mix. Find it quick or you'll be buying a couple CATs due to melting." Soooo, after 2 years and 30K miles after SOA's "recommendation", monkeying around with spacers, new front O2 sensor, and voodoo, there appears to be a LOGICAL DIAGNOSIS of the underlying cause. There have been so many posts about the P0420 that I hope to be able to collaborate to make this a sticky for those unfortunates who follow. In the meantime, in my particular case, I need some guidance on how to "Check fuel delivery, pressure and check for vacuum leaks". romraiderlog_20130716_180554.zip

I know nothing about emergency brakes etc but I would be uncomfortable with the "roll again" feature. For example, how the frick can you park in a hilly place like San Francisco without knowing exactly how much room to leave so you don't end up lap dancing with the car ahead of or behind you?? I know you are supposed to curb the wheels, but really! All of your experiences should be documented and memorialized with SOA as well as the local dealership. I would also include a statement in all of your written correspondence with SOA that they will be held liable for any incident in that they have now been made aware of the situation. That usually gets their attention. Ask that a regional manager meet you to discuss and view the recording. Good luck.

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/subaru-recalls-200-000-cars-braking-issue-1C9176258 200,000 cars in the rust belt being recalled for brake line inspection/repair/rust protection. Affects 200,000 05-09 Legacy Outback sedans and wagons.

So, you are able to lock the door using the inside switch then close/lock the door? Good way to lock your keys in the car by mistake! I'll have to see if I can do the same on my car.

I know you said this was a new symptom but on my 2000 Legacy, there was an issue from day 1 that caused a "clunk" when going over bumps at low speed. Turns out it was a hydraulic knock in the steering mechanism. Subaru had a "fix" that added a damper in the line.

Had this problem on my 00 Legacy and the unit was simply replaced under warranty.

Agreed on misuse of real estate. Too much scrolling. Also, what happened to my avatar? Jake is not happy.

Fine work especially the split hose. In problem #1 I started at the last picture, I couldn't discern that something not factory original was present until I reviewed the top down sequence.

Here ya go.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57945&highlight=seat+belt+chime Welcome to the board.

:grin::grin::grin::grin:

Here's some info: See under 2 button http://www.rjes.com/html/my00-07_immobiliser.html Doesn't really clarify if your "market" ie Japan used an immobilizer.

+1 for the rattling connectors

I don't really use cruise control so I see your point. Keep us posted.

Welcome to the board TJ. Unfortunately I still get the code 0420. I haven't replaced the cat $$. I bought a code reader/clearer Link It will also test that all systems are "ready" as in ready for emissions testing! I clear the code and it stays off for a while. The code comes and goes and I only need be concerned in passing emissions every two years. Clear the code, drive a fews cycles and all systems will test ready. Drive to test center, smile, pay the fee and away you go.

Are you using genuine Subaru plug wires?

I'll give it a try. What tattoo?

Now THIS is a Subaru.

Speaking of CT winters, the CT DOT just responded to truckers request concerning road deicing materials. "The Motor Transport Association of Connecticut says legislators should make deicers like magnesium chloride illegal. Association President Michael Riley told the Republican-American of Waterbury ( http://bit.ly/11BAtQ7) that the chemical is corroding trucks at an unprecedented rate and officials should be worried about it affecting bridge metal. State DOT spokesman Kevin Nursick says the mix works well and it's up to motorists to wash their cars to avoid corrosion." Doh, why didn't I think of that...

More likely Va and Room.

so then kick both sides a few times ;-)

Will snow tires/wheels from 2005 OB without Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) valves cause any problems if installed on 2008 Outback that came equipped with TPMS?