brus brother

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/42574-2006-obw-airbag-lig ht-my-fix.html I had the same intermittent problem and was diagnosed by a Subaru tech as a courtesy. I just replaced the overhead map light console in my 08 OB. I wonder how many of these have failed and if SOA would provide the number. The problem being that if that light is ON, the airbag system is OFF. So this does become a safety issue and not just a blinky light problem. Anyway, replacement was fairly simple. Instructions with pictures linked above. Pry off light lens, 4 Phillips screws, 2 electrical connections. Replace with new unit and the problem has not returned since. As linked above, I have read that others experimented with re soldering the components on the small circuit board but I didn't try it myself. I paid about $100 for the console and of course SOA "never heard of a problem" with these units, even though I snagged one at my local dealership that was already on order for another customer. I saved the old one if anyone wants to tinker around OR if SOA decides to step up and acknowledge what is a real safety issue. Might be worth a shot to discuss this with the dealer or call SOA directly but they didn't budge for me. SOA could easily make a claim against the board manufacturer for faulty work and look like a champ but now they look like chumps. BTW I notice you are from Harrisonburg. My GPS always pronounces it Harry Sonburg. If you see Harry, give him my regards.

The above link shows an entire car wrap with the 3M material. At 2:48 they are applying it to the rear vent area. If you look on the related links to the right of the video, there are examples where they wrapped tire rims in this material. This stuff is pretty impressive. Features: Self-adhesive back with 3M™ Comply adhesive Pressure-activated adhesive. No WATER needed for installation. Air Egress Technology Lay-flat, bubble free installation Can be re-lifted, repositioned and stretched Stretchable with heat Conform to contours and bend easily High temperature & water resistant Install Temp: 60F to 80F (16C to 32C) End Use Temp: -65F to 225F (-60C to 107C) Can be cleaned with soap and water Stands up against water, dirt, grease, salt, mild acids and oil. Long life with excellent UV durability: Up to 6yr. outdoor/unlimited indoor Design for auto wrapping, 3.5 mil (.0035" thick film)

whoaa and whoaa +2 watch it being applied

Thanks Rooster but since your woody wasn't paint (?) my question was for the original poster. It seems like the areas affected were prominent and would have taken the brunt of an aggressive automatic brush.

Was the car routinely run thru an automatic car wash?

Vallvoline NexGen 50% recycled oil has the starburst symbol on the front and is rated SN. They boast a 150,000 mile engine guarantee on the label (which is barely off the lot for a Subaru). I have been buying this stuff at Advanced Auto when they have full rebate offers and have enough oil now to open my own Spiffy Lube. If the engine ever fails, I will simply affix their label guarantee to the hood and keep on driving. Worse comes to worse, it's a lifetime of salad dressing.

I use: MaxiScan MS300 OBD2/OBDII Car Auto Diagnostic Code Reader Scanner Tool CAN$22 shipped on ebay. Pretty basic but it: Reads and erases codes. Tells you if systems are "ready" if you are trying to sneak by emissions testing.

Did you see the response on the other site to your query? "I have this same problem but fixed it last night. Our horn and blower motor at first were intermittent and then stopped working completely. I found somewhere it said the horn relay was behind the left kick panel. When I removed the panel I found two heavy wires underneath the fuze panel by the drivers left foot, one of them looked repaired at some time with a bad splice. The heavier wire is black and red. That wire had two areas that were bare. I put a test light across the splice and it was hot all the time. Then I checked it as it went into a gray connector where it was also bare and it was dead. I made a jumper and went across the two bare spots, the splice in that wire and the blower motor started to work and the horn worked now too. I wished I would have taken a picture of this where it was repaired or maybe that's the way it came from the factory I'm not real sure. I removed the splice and soldered a longer wire onto the original spade terminal within the gray connector and now everything works as it is supposed to." Now to start tracing your own wires...

Did you watch the video at the bottom of the article titled "Does it do THAT:?" YIKES!

Under the heading of good ole', the Subaru 360 Sambar has been around since at least 1960. This might be the handicap accessible version. I have a feeling the spoiler and discs are aftermarket. 2 stroke engine probably only did 55 mph going downhill. A couple of years ago I saw a few of these rusting away in a yard in Ct.

Stop by Autozone and have them clear the code for you. The car will run a little wonky while the computer relearns. It will take a few driving cycles for all of the systems to become ready but hopefully that will be the end of your 0420 light show.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-18-mm-gasket-seat-spark-plug-non-foulers/_/N-25px?itemIdentifier=730544_0_0_ 18mm is the size. Above is the link to Autozone part. Comes 2 in a pack for about $5. NOTE: As I and others have discovered, this doesn't work on MY 2005+

Well, I am inclined to agree with you about these "spurious" codes. I clear the cel every now and again if it hasn't gone off in the meantime to make sure no other code has come up other than 0420. I can clear the code and have all systems ready to pass emissions. For the rest of the time I have 2 small pieces of black masking tape that cover the cel and the blinking cruise light. I hope the tape doesn't violate the no tampering laws.

Next question is whether their is any correlation or higher incidence to areas with winter fuel additives that trash the cat, i.e. % of sales of replacements by geographic region. and this: http://reviews.ebay.com/Reasons-for-catalytic-converter-failure?ugid=10000000002803746 Could the externally leaking oil (weeping) head gaskets on my 05 also be leaking internally enough to trash the cat?

Anyone ever try ole Scotty Kilmer's remedy. Ivan, care to try this on one of the many that roll thru your shop?

Had my favorite subie tech's ear today and he said that in Subie school, the 0420 is described as much more of a phenomenon here in the northeast. The unanswered question is if it has to do with fuel additives. I'd love to see a spreadsheet of which dealers are installing/selling the cats for these cars and see if there is a geographic pattern. Doubtful if Subaru will give up this info or whether the 0420 problem is even specific to the Subaru brand. I'd love to see the beating the dead horse emoticon added to the title of this post!

googling around found this little tidbit: http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t17299_ds469549 I know there are issues with hills and 2005's cruise control. See here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cruise-control-surges-jerks-downhill-10725.html?t=10725 I don't have the tsb but google 2005 Subaru cruise control problem and you will find some fun reading. Ignore the threads that include issues of check engine light as their problem is unrelated to yours. Cruise stops working if there is a CEL. Not your problem.

I recall there was tsb concerning cruise lunging in this year.

The car will drive well and feel fine in the early stages of a torn cv boot BUT the smell of CV grease is remarkable. As the axle spins, the grease is flung out of cracks in the cv boot landing on the hot engine/exhaust. A car of your vintage is apt to have dried out/torn boots. You may be able to see them from above but more readily from below. There are inner (near the transmission) and outer (near the wheel) boots on the axles. The passenger side usually goes first because it is over the exhaust and the heat fries the boot. Once the grease has all been flung out of the boot THEN you will notice the clicking sounds and drive-ability issues. Then again, you might have just caught a plastic bag or some other debris on your exhaust. Lots of possibilities but certainly check or have someone knowledgeable check the cv boots anyway.

But, isn't that what you meant to do?

OR Chip Foose and the Overhaulin' team is reworking your car right now! Don't forget to act surprised when they return a subaru brz to your driveway. Damn I wish I lived in the PNW with a GD close by.

Go easy gents. You have to consider the missus and daughter factor. If they blow a gasket there can be hell to pay. They selected the new and pretty car. Enuf said! Fitz can also milk the warranty for new HGs and get his timing belt done as well now that he knows better. Peace Love and Woodstock!

That motorcycle hearse looks like... well like a death trap! heh heh

Glad it worked out. Make darn sure before the warranty is up that you check very carefully for oil "seepage" at the bottom of the head gaskets. Subaru might tell you it's nothing to worry about but I was told it eventually leads to failure and insisted that the repair be done on my 05. Adding the 36K warranty to your current 61K puts you at 97K miles and just shy of the 105,000 mile timing belt change. So, once you beat them into submission, pay the extra for parts to do the timing belt while they are in there and you've gotten value added. Remember to use the turbo head gaskets as per many a board recommendation. I have found this board to be a very knowledgeable group of people who are generous with their expertise. Welcome aboard.