brus brother

The oldie is my buddy's 1969 Subaru 360 with 11,000 miles on the odometer. Still under warranty? My 05 OB stands behind it just in case of bullies.

Reminds me of an old movie Pete 'n' Tillie (1972). OK I'm a geezer. Anyway, a father and son play a prank on a neighbor who is annoying everyone by bragging about his new car's fuel economy. Every night, they go out and put more gas in the guy's fuel tank. Just when the neighbor reaches the ultimate height of pride over his situation, they then begin siphoning off gas until they bring him back to earth.

Local Autozone lets you borrow the 2 types of wrenches for O2 sensors.

What was the cel code?

The antifoulers are available through Autozone part number 42009. They're about $6.50 for the pair. You'll have to drill them out. I have a pair already drilled out that didn't work on my 05 but everyone swears by them pre 05. Good luck. PM me if you want them.

Ask to setup appointment with district manager at any dealership that is convenient to you. Ask for any bs in writing if he blows you off. Also ask to drive another like model on their lot. As for oil change, first recommended change is early due to break in metal shavings etc. contaminating the oil... or so I've been told.

Wow, I learn something new everyday here. So I should revise my earlier post to say go to Durania's house and "borrow" his when he's not lookin'.

T-30 Go back to junkyard and borrow one from another subie. The torx screwdrivers came with the cars and were usually in the glovebox.

Remove the scanner from the car immediately before the wheels fall off!

What misfire problem and what about the bubbles in the coolant?? I feel like someone changed the channel when I went to the refrigerator!

Emily, I have an 05 with the weeping oil at the bottom of the HG. Is resurfacing a must under these circumstances when replacing the HGs? There isn't any overheating and I am wondering if that is the only indication. Is the straight edge test good enough?

Ah them young'ns... Charter member of the OFRT and you're still not fast enough ;-)

Ed, What is odd is that from the cars 101 page linked above, your 2002 should have had the square remote with the colored buttons. Also the teardrop version shown as a replacement doesn't have the trunk release button as your new one shown, purchased from the dealer. My 2000 Legacy had the grey buttons and in-law's 2002 had the colored buttons. You stated in your first post that you can't get the car's system into program mode. I don't recall that this procedure requires any input from the remote at this stage, so then, any discussion about having the correct remote and working battery is a distraction. While there is something about programming up to 4 remotes so it could be possible that all 4 positions are "occupied", your problem appears to be about sequencing to get into programming and not the new remote (that might come later if you are truly unlucky). Here's a link to some other interpretations of this odd dance that SOA subjects us to: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/interior-mods/66863-subaru-keyless-remote-programming-instructions.html

wish I lived in Portland...

Check out the driver's side HG at the rear bottom and you should see oil seepage. Both of my 05s (legacy and OBi ltd) have this issue. Seems suggested "maintenance" is to do the HGs with the 105,000 mile TB.

But if you sort of just gently loosen the blockage with the wire, the "biofilm" which has likely built up within the confines of the hose will be flushed out. That's what happened with mine. We aren't talking about a cork in a bottle here. The wire will first pass through the center core of the loosely aggregated plug and then once patent, you can further trefine the opening allowing the debris to be washed out. What have you got to lose? If the plug is displaced back into the box and this method doesn't work, you can always go back to taking apart the entire front 1/2 of your car. Oh and you may have missed the part in my post where I said "problem solved". As they say though, your mileage may vary.

As I recall, on my old gl and loyale the hose exited near the rear of the right wheel well. I took a straightened metal coat hanger and snaked it up from the exit opening unclogging the line. Problem solved.

UPDATED UPDATE: The dashboard airbag light came on again. A few months ago I noticed that the driver's side map light which is in the center overhead console was out so I went to change it but tested it first and it was OK so just replaced it. In the past I had similar situation and just cleaned the contacts and replaced. This time I just left it alone. When the light came on, I looked up and noticed that my wife had depressed the switch and left it in the ON position not realizing the bulb wasn't "working". I pressed the switch to the OFF position and the dashboard airbag light was now off as well. So there is some sort of electrical gremlin in the unit. It's just 4 screws and 2 connectors to replace the $130 unit. For now, I'll just do without a map light.

Local parts counter at SubaruPartsForYou.com. It's a 30 minute drive but they offer on-line pricing and I have the parts in hand. Anthony or John at the counter will help with any look-ups or special orders so I don't need to rely on my meager knowledge. Good luck Shawn. Hope you don't leave us for corporate.

Latest HG posts seem to indicate that your wishes will eventually come true:banghead:

My has 3 cats and 5 sensors! 2 precat, 2 post cat and one on top of rear cat after the two join. I spoke with Bosch tech support after replacing the front precat with OEM and while it would seem in his interest for me to buy his sensor for the rear, he suggested it wouldn't help. Just my experience and not meant to dissuade or mislead.

I am afraid that 2005+ models are too smart for the cheaters. I have an intermittent P0420. After reading about all of the possible real fixes, costs and potential lack of solution, I bought a small code reader for about $20 on eBay (Autel MS300). Clear the codes, drive a few cycles at various speeds to get all systems "ready", rescan to make sure no codes and no codes pending and then run to emission testing center. Since my code is intermittent, I justify this method as "coinciding" the timing of when the code is present or not with my visit to testing center.

DADGUMMIT!!!! So if this is the case, HGs should be replaced as part of the timing belt interval?

So, after the HGs are done, if done properly, how long are they good for?