brus brother

That "cheat fix" may fail in time. Try this next time:

cost to ship versus cost to replace SAFETY FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD

GD's $9000 potential hit sounds like it's time for Craigslist For Sale By Owner for possessions unless family heirlooms. No white knuckle driving and a moment to reassess what one needs to carry into the next phase of life. (Says the geezer with a garage and basement filled with junk.)

Keep us posted.

sell the bed? buy new? sell everything, stuff the outback and travel light. go Maryland Terrapins! My daughter and hubby paid to move from NYC to here in CT beginning of Covid. Since sold off most every bulky item including their bikes, tables, chairs. Currently AirBB monthly around the world. From London to Aruba to France. Worked for them. Hope your daughter's move is safe and worry free for dad. I guess you costed out driving renting a one way uhaul cargo van? Not as much fun if both passengers are able drivers and playing follow the leader...

Hey Paul. Was this you and your aging eyes? blind corner.mp4

I have a 2008 OB with chronic, migratory and recurring heat shield issues. 135K miles in the rust belt. Years ago when it first started, car was in for a free oil change at SOA. I always enjoy the up-sell conversation when in for the "free" service... "Sir, you are due for your headlight rotation. I see you have your kids in the car. You probably want to take care of this now." I always decline, telling them they are not my kids, so not my problem. Besides, I do most simple work myself and rotate the headlights as per manufacturers schedule of maintenance. OK Back to the heat shield noise. The tech proceeded to bang around with his hand on the exhaust and once the noise was located (to my horror) he inserted a self tapping screw into the exhaust. But what he actually did was drill ONLY through the heat shield but NOT actually into the exhaust pipe, wedging the shield in place, eliminating the heat shield from rattling. Phew. In the past I used stainless steel hose clamps (per USMB recommendations) where straight runs allowed but recently ran into a new loose heat shield on a bend that defied my attempts with a clamp. Pulled out my nut driver and a self tapping screw and voila, NNM (noise no more.) Sounds like OP may have figured out his noise but just wanted to tell an old timer's tale of yore. Now, get off my lawn. ;-)

P0420 for 8 years gas mileage never altered (even with the black tape). Car ran great all those years. There was another trick of installing a resistor on one of the O2 sensor wires and while the P0420 disappeared, another code popped up instead. If you end up not getting a resolution, you can erase the code with a $20 reader and cruise will work until the code reappears. You can also just read codes on a routine basis and allay concerns if you fear a code warning that the rear tires are about to fall off. I think that code is Pwtf! Seriously, I wish you luck. Hope you can report good news.

check wheel for balance

yeah, use the spare as a placeholder as you swap tires L to R or forward aft.

My experience with drive shaft was when taking off from start and I would feel it in the center as ido suggests.

Roadside assistance only available in New England ;-)

new tires? if lug nuts tight try swapping tires back to front. see if noise travels with tire. possibly defective tire. common things occur commonly.

lug nuts tight?

from bio looks like 98 legacy

2002 subaru outback 4 cyl according to profile jumped timing?

05 OB had P0420 at 105K until I junked the car with 200K miles. Tried replacing the cat (aftermarket) without change except more change out of my pocket. Computer is tuned real tight for emissions. It may clear itself but will come back. I bought a $20 code reader/eraser so I could pass our testing every two years. Clear code, ru at a partiocular sequence to set system checks as ready then run to get emissions test good for 2 more years. I think I did that for the last 8-10 years of ownership. Put a piece of black tape over the light Costs nothing. If recent purchase, prior owner probably knew the tricks.

Click and Clack once recommended a new driver be given a nice square car like a Volvo (or Forrester?) so they can turn it into an oval.;-)

dang. effective July 1 if passes.

Driving the kid's 2019 OB with CVT,, acceleration seems to lag for a second or two from stop. Different than my 08, stomp and go. Is this inherent in CVT design?

couldn't find anyone around CT to take mine... who did you use? worth shipping?

check all grounds/connectors front and rear. as 1LT suggested move a known "good" bulb around as well.

Never did the rebuild. Just replaced the one O-ring on top and all was fine after that. Local dealer price was about $2.

Sorry I doubted you. #7 is LINK so it isn't a donut after all. With that in mind, it now looks to be a pretty large gap in your first pic with really rough mating surfaces. I've never used something like THIS or THIS but it would require cutting out the joint and mating the "bandage". Without a lift, it can be challenging. I remember someone using aluminum roof flashing (or was it a beer can) to wrap around a hole in a pipe and secure with SS pipe clamps. As suggested above, shop around smaller non-chain muffler shops and see if someone can't just cut and weld in a hard splice or ask if they would use the flex joint linked above?

OP's first picture sure looks like it is a (rusty) spring+bolt connector on one side so ... flex joint? The further aft junctions don't use springs as posted by Imdew. That being said, the collars are pretty shabby and might still leak around the donut. BTW, I have an issue with my 08 where the rear pipe Vs off to the rear mufflers and have bought time using furnace grade high temp caulk from Home Depot.