brus brother

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Sent you a pm. I'm near you and have some spark plug cheaters that might eliminate the p0420. You're on your own for the rest.

Here in CT they don't tailpipe sniff but just read the OBDII and away you go. If this EJ22 is readable via OBDII, what are the codes?

GD, I come here for advice and opinions and yours are among those I've come to respect. Just kicking myself for not looking underneath 3K miles ago.:banghead::banghead: Dadgummit!@#$^&

I think y'all may have missed the point that this is a dealer only proposition with some help from SOA. I didn't catch this before the 80K warranty ran out so shame on me. Effectively, my out of pocket $300 cost will about equal what I would have to pay for a TB job. The rest of the $ from SOA would cover the HG work. All them extra parts your tossin' in will add up pretty darn quick, especially at dealer prices. Just saying... BTW, the tech does the HGs in the car all the time. Says he just tilts the engine.

I've got the HG oil leak external on the 05 Legacy. What else would you do besides changing the timing belt while in the neighborhood. This is going to be a dealer warranty expedition so no cheap parts from ebay etc.

Just had my 08 OB in to check a leak before my 60k warranty expired and was told by tech that it was the oil pan that was the source of the leak. I guess I will have to check this more closely myself.

This is the kind of thing you run into with high mileage cars. Welcome to the site. Let the dealer sort it out if it continues. I wouldn't be happy if it really is 5-6 seconds. On my 05 with 120K miles, it's less than 5-6 cranks and it's running.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66882&highlight=turn+smoke+loyale Check out post #2 by General Disorder. This uphill right turn stumbling related to PCV may be your issue.

Can you post a picture or two?

Wrong size plug ++

3" of rain is a good opportunity for some differential diagnosis. Cover the sunroofs with plastic (garbage bags etc) and duct tape the edges. If you are wet tomorrow, then it is either the windshield seal or the drain from the cowling area below the windshield. BTW, does it ever get wet simply by running the AC or actually, the same if you run the defroster which may coincide with when it is raining? If that is the case, perhaps the drain line from that unit has come detached from the AC unit under the dash.

Actually, at this point, the oil is settling on the cross member so none is even appearing on my garage floor. The oil mixing with coolant that GG describes as a rarity is somewhat comforting. So what years did/will SOA HG be considered solid? My 08 at 60K is dry but as I said, both 05s (105K and 82K) are weeping. The discussion and link referenced damage to cats (I have an intermittent P0420 on my 105K 05) from oil burning etc. That info is all over the board as well. The post did verify that the cheaters don't work on 05+. But that's another story.

Found the following in a link on the NASIOC site relating to 05+ and potential fouling of cats: "Your model year has a problem where it starts to leak very early from the oil return galleries on the bottom of the heads. Make no mistake: it IS a headgasket leak and you DO need to do something about it. You'll get no further warning before it converts to a much more serious oil-to-coolant leak." BOTH of my 05's have the telltale oil leak at the driver's side! My passenger cat is in P0420 mode off and on. Anybody tracking these leaks and ultimate failure rates?

Thanks for the link but even more now to worry about with MY05 "Your model year has a problem where it starts to leak very early from the oil return galleries on the bottom of the heads. Make no mistake: it IS a headgasket leak and you DO need to do somehting about it. You'll get no further warning before it converts to a much more serious oil-to-coolant leak." BOTH of my 05's have the telltale oil leak at the driver's side! Anybody tracking these leaks and failure rates? May have to start a new thread.

Have a "feeling" it's an oil leak. I hope, I hope, I hope! Just for reassurance, I checked the wife's 05 OB and it has the same "leak" as my daughter's 05 legacy. I prefer consistency...

After some reading it appears the 05s are subject to an "oil only" external head gasket leak problem. As I said, the "wet" area is beneath the driver side rear cylinder and on the cross-member below. Does a coolant leak leave a residue after the car is sitting overnight or would it dry without a trace unlike oil leaks?

82K miles. 05 Legacy. Just noticed dampness at lower rear driver side HG area and on cross-member below. Coolant was changed with additive at 70K miles. Coolant isn't down drastically in overflow. Is it worth a shot to add another bottle of Subaru's coolant stop leak or just bite the bullet?

Bank 1 is passenger side.

I've had the 0420 for the past year or so. Started at just about the same mileage. It generally means the passenger side cat converter is heading south. Saving numerous trips to local Autozone to have the code cleared each time, I bought a cheap $20 code reader/clearer from ebay and played around with the spark plug cheater trick (search 0420 code on this site). Unfortunately, our 2005s don't seem to like the cheaters and didn't 'fix" the problem. The code doesn't affect drive-ability. I too replaced the front O2 sensor but that didn't help. The code comes and goes so the "threshold" may be a little to tight in the computer's spec. The blinking cruise control goes along with the code which apparently becomes inactive with the CEL. Passing state state emission tests is tricky but after I clear the code and the car runs a particular set of cycles/speed runs and all systems are reading as "ready", I have been able to pass before it threw the code again. I have read that there are some performance companies that will reformat the computer to eliminate this parameter but I haven't bothered with it (cost/benefit $300 versus replace the cat $700 after market which gets pricey itself and some say doesn't prevent the code from coming back). Sorry to hear you are facing these headaches with your "new" car but quite possibly the previous owner had just reset the light before selling it to you.

Before you bother to change the remote battery, see if you can just reprogram it (instructions in owner's manual in section on changing the remote battery)

http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1152&bih=681&q=subaru+outer+cv+joint&gbv=2&oq=subaru+outer+cv+joint&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=1690l8847l0l9032l21l21l0l14l4l0l215l1030l1.4.2l7l0 Here's a bunch of Google images. Hope this helps.

I know exactly where he is in ct. He's between a rock and a hard place!

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/11/automobiles/autoreviews/2012-subaru-impreza-about-that-drinking-problem.html?_r=1&hp

Have been futzin' around with p0420 code for a while and had a nice chat with Bosch tech support. They call back within 15 minutes of leaving a message. I would give them a call since my local Autozone's data base was wrong and gave me the wrong part # for my 05. Even my local Subie tech says stick with OEM for the front sensor as this controls the engine performance. From what I've read, the rear sensors on the other hand are worth the risk since they just throw a code to tell you when you are polluting and the cat is shot.