brus brother

Unlike your dad's car, it looks like 205/55/16 are the original (and current) size tires on my 05 Legacy 2.5i according to tirerack.com. Considering that as my starting point, what if any improvement in height can I achieve without going the Monster Truck route? I do live in the northeast and get some snow. I'm trying to understand the tire numbers and how much to push these numbers.

Recently bought a 2005 Legacy sedan and was wondering if there is a practical way of raising the car with different tires that would still work with the stock rims without creating rubs or other handling problems. I will need new tires soon anyway and have become accustomed to the Outback height of my other Subarus.

A very thoughtful Mother's Day present!

Just picked up an 05 Legacy (Auto 79K miles) and noticed brake noise not present on my 05 OB. Seems to happen upon first couple applications of brakes.... especially if done under very gentle, slow braking at low speeds. Also hear it almost every time when slowing backing down the driveway. Again, the brakes are cold and the fluids have "settled" (if there's such a thing). No noticeable drop in brake performance and the pedal feels firm. Any ideas as to cause or remedy?

I was in a local diner recently and the waitress had a name tag that read "O. Miss".

This is number 9 in the family. This one's for my 17 y/o. 05 Legacy sedan 2.5i 79k on odometer in great shape except for some baby juice bottle stains on the fabric. Silver (no spoiler or hood scoop ). I think it is a cleaner line without the additions. Car feels lighter afoot than the OBs I've been driving. The best part is there is 2 months and 1K miles left on a transferred Subaru Classic and Powertrain warranty. I plan on taking it in to the dealer for the once over and bring it up to spec where necessary. Any suggestions other than "don't drive like my brother"?

How are the brake pads? Is the fluid in the reservoir low? Brakes may be bad AND there may be something else going on, possibly the alternator. If the alternator is wonky, the engine is running off the battery, and the ABS computer isn't getting the correct power to work properly, thus activating the ABS light. So, check brake pads and fluid levels and if still an issue, have the alternator checked for free at Autozone and proceed accordingly.

Don't try tricking us with facts.

You can buy a data-logger USB to OBDII connector and program on eBay for about $25 that hooks to a laptop and you can get real time info from the program. Among other system tests, it reads: "Oxygen sensor voltages/associated short term fuel trims" I haven't experimented with this to understand the values so I'll wait for others to chime in but here is the link for one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBDII-OBD-OBD2-CAN-auto-PC-scantool-USB-cable-1-3a-B03-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a65200f3QQitemZ290553200883QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Did you see this old USMB post? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58266

Temporary fix leads to a new meaning for WReX...

Well I smelled it a week ago and saw a tiny seepage on the passenger inner boot at the clamp and assumed not too bad I'll just get a hose clamp or tighten the old one. Well today I noticed that the driver's side is torn open and flung that stinking grease everywhere. I don't have ramps and don't feel like doing a limbo under the car for now so is there an effective temp fix to drive it for a few days. Wrap with plastic bag and duct tape or will you be reading about me on the nightly news. I'm having the dealer replace the boot(s) on Tuesday. BTW, do axles ever make any noises other than clicking when they are shot? I had noticed a grumbling sound (like snow tires) that I thought was wheel bearing but dealer told me it was bad tires. Any chance it is a bad axle as I'd hate to do the boots and then need an axle. I plan on getting tires in the fall.

I'm currently shopping for Subie #8 for my 17 y/o. Father (actor in the commercial) is the real father of both girls in the commercial. Agency threw out the script and had him say to his kids exactly what he would say. Hence the reality.

For anyone who has or will ever have a teenage driver in the family... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qf8OGLqE1s

:lol: weakling...

:lol:

105,000 miles on 05 OB noticed slight and only occasional smell of that nasty cv grease burning on the passenger side exhaust. There is a small amount that appears to be weeping out of the small end of the boot. Is it reasonable to remove that metal clip and use a zip tie (or another metal hose clamp?) to tighten things up without disconnecting the axle? Any tips on removing the clip w/o damaging the boot?

Shawn, "The Front 02, or "Bank 1 sensor 1" on most Subarus is typically in need of replacement every 105K miles on US model cars." There are a total of 5 sensors on my 05 OB. 2 upstream, 2 downstream behind the first cats and one behind the rear cat. At 105,000 miles and an occasional P0420 (mostly local driving / regular Citgo gas / new spark plugs) is there a preference for replacing either sensor as a "wear item" or is bank one after first cat the choice? OR is this still just throwing parts at the car and I and the original poster would be better off getting a data-logging program like THIS and then posting results?

I guess you could swap sensors to see if the code switches from bank 1 to bank 2. But do you just listen/feel for leaks? Does the leak have to be pretty big to throw a code? Is there a CEL-NoMore in a can I can spray on the hood of the car?

I agree entirely with John but here are some considerations. What year/model car. My recent experience with P0420 was with my 05 Outback follows. At 104,000 miles I got CEL. Autozone checked (for free) P0420 with the description you note. They erased the code as well. Car ran like crap as soon as I restarted it but smoothed out once the computer re-learned the engine. CEL came back again at about 60 miles but before I drove back to Autozone and having researched the code on-line I feared the worst that the passenger side catalytic converter was dead. I bought a cheap code reader on-line for about $20. After I made the purchase, I read that others suggest that a real time data-logger program with connector running off your laptop for not much more $ is the way to go with a better diagnosis but so far I have had adequate results with the code reader. OK now that I didn't have to drive to Autozone every time it threw a code I could experiment and with the help of the web I tried various "cheats". There is a spark plug anti-fouler ($5 for a pair at Autozone in the self help area part# 42009) that can be drilled out and used to back the 02 sensor out of the cat and fool the computer into thinking the catalytic converter is working at it's desired efficiency. I tried one then two piggybacked but my code came back (and even got a different code... ) so after a while I gave up and removed all of the cheaters and then no CEL until last week at 1085 miles later. Is your car well tuned? Have you started using cheapo gas? The dealer implied there would be a different code for O2 sensor but John's O2 suggestion is tempting my wallet's sensibility. I cleared the code again but I am prepared to get an aftermarket cat with a 5 year warranty for a third of the price of an OEM cat with a 12 month warranty. Note that my 05 Outback has a particularly expensive design in that there are 3 catalytic converters and 5 O2 sensors! This particular setup appears to NOT work well with the cheaters. I performed the modifications on the O2 sensor immediately behind the first cat on the passenger side. When I was tinkering around with the cheaters, I got yet a different code. People swear by the fix and a wink from Autozone sales seems to indicate it's common knowledge. So if you just want to pass emissions and simulate the rich man's $750 emissions conscience, buy a cheap code reader. Simple to learn and operate. Once you clear the code, the computer will read certain systems NOT READY (which would also red flag your car at testing). There is a certain method of driving at 60 mph for a few cycles to set the systems as ready. Keep checking the code reader. Timed right, when codes have been cleared and all systems are "ready" you can get right to testing and you might pass before throwing the first "pending" code and then the second code which lights up the CEL. Like the outcome of a rain dance, sometimes it's just a matter of timing. NOTE: I have read that this friggin' code can return even after you change the cat so while I am certainly in favor of clean environment, the difference between readings that are AOK and operating just "below threshold" is a gray area for you and your wallet to mull over.

Thanks for the tips but I am at arms length from the shop. My dealings were strictly with SOA and my father-in-law was given the $2100 guestimate by the shop as a worse case scenario, replacing everything but the ashtray. He is 83 and I was glad to be able to negotiate with SOA for him. I did my research and was well informed going into discussions thanks to USMB and I think SOA dealt with us fairly as a family of long time customers.

Good news, GG. While this wasn't part of the 100K/8year WWP99, SOA kicked in $1500 for the job. New tb/ wp/ heads resurfaced and parts on us but I'm OK with that. Not sure that they will automatically replace the cam seals tensioners etc. My faith in Sube head gaskets still wavers but not so their customer service! Nipper's suggestion for a Volvo for new driver is in line with Car Talk guys Click and Clack. "In the first six months, they can take that nice square car and turn it into an oval".

82K miles 2002 Legacy GT Need to buy a car for my 17 year old new driver and I'm beginning to waver on my Subaru loyalty. This would have been #7 in the family...

Right you were. Head gaskets were leaking. Dealer had the car torn down before I asked them about a bottle (or two) of conditioner. My father-in-law has been having an indie do maintenance and they likely never added the Holts conditioner stop leak goop. Was the conditioner factory installed by 02? HG, timing belt, water pump $2K.

HG gasket leak a small drip, like one every 5 seconds? I couldn't see a pinhole leak and it appears it was dripping at the interface and not from a hose. I am under the impression that this vintage external leak was usually behind #1, driver's side rear. It's really tight under there and I didn't have any ramps to get a better look. He drove the car home 60 mph for about an hour and didn't overheat... yet. He knows enough to keep an eye on the gauge and water level till it goes into the shop.