brus brother

P2096 back. "Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean (Bank 1)" History: Trying to solve P0420, I first tried one antifouler drilled out and piggybacked to one not drilled out and that gave me P2096. Then I eliminated the piggybacked one but that returned the P0420 even though the sensor was "out of the stream" so I next tried two drilled out antifoulers thinking it would be "out of the stream" but still getting enough input to show it as working. Help me noodle this. There are 2 upstream sensors (one on either downpipe), 2 downstream sensors (one behind either cat) and one additional downstream sensor atop the rear cat after the two pipes join. Is it relevant that I am only modding the bank one sensor behind the first cat? Is the code simply relevant to the difference in readings between the front (on the engine downpipe) and that first rear sensor (behind the passenger cat) or is that rear sensor thrown into the mix and warranting attention?

Thanks GD. I'll interrogate them tomorrow about http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=13706 but since there aren't any pull-aparts that I know of here in CT and after shipping and questionable condition of used I'll take the new route if all is as it appears.

Just checked subarupartsforyou.com. Hub with wheel bearing assembly is $129 for 05 OB. Don't see just the bearing?? Is it easier (just as cost effective) to just change the whole hub out anyway since I don't have a press?

Wish I was in West (by God) Virginia. I'd be over in a heartbeat. I'm in Weston, CT. We had a ridiculous 2' of snow last week and an ice storm predicted for tonight. Makes working outside problematic. Right now I have two reamed out anti-foulers in place but I show one pending 0240 code and egr not ready. I may remove all of the anti-foulers and let Subaru run a real time diagnosis to see what's kicking in and when. The suggestion of 11/2 length antifouler could also be accomplished by only opening the piggyback second antifouler only half diameter. Left as stock with only spark hole it gave the failed sensor code and opened up entirely gives the old 0240. Trial and error is in order as long as I don't need inspection until summer. Seafoam, different gas, wear aluminum foil hat while driving...

Now, here's another method of cleaning O2 sensor with Seafoam (preceded by blowtorch ) http://www.ehow.com/how_7389860_clean-automotive-o2-sensors.html

So, if I am relying on Seafoam to clean cat/sensors would it be advisable to remove all of the anti-foulers and get the sensor back "in the stream". There was one very small spot of anti-sieze on the sensor so I guess this complicates the issue.

So what is complicating this is that my P0420 code returned. I initially tried piggybacking two anti-foulers (one drilled out) but that got me P2096 code for sensor not working. I removed the piggyback and was back to P0420. I then tried two drilled out but I'm now still getting P0420. At 6 years and 105K miles, the 8yr/80K warranty period on cats is past and Subaru only warranties their replacement cat for 12mos/12K miles. At $625 plus 1 hour for the passenger side cat, with small warranty, I am looking at Eastern Converter for $400 with a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty. Does anyone have any experience with this manufacturer or can you suggest another aftermarket? The dealer said there has been mention of bad gas in the northeast and if that is the case then I wonder how long it will be until the driver's side fails. The driver's side is in the $1300 range as it contains two cats. This car seems like it was designed to support the parts department! I am wondering if I should trade up to a newer model... With these kind of ongoing repairs for a 6 y/o car, leasing starts to seem pretty smart.

05 Outback 104,000 miles going in to the dealer for timing belt tomorrow. Open heart surgery is over my head. I intend on having them replace the water pump and cam seals. Aside from those major issues, I would like to supply on-line priced discounted parts if items are coming out and simply require re-installation anyway. It is a pretty cool dealership and I can't see how they would give me a hard time but ya never know. So besides the fan/alternator/ps belts what other innards would you consider replacing? Idlers? Tensioners? Hopefully, this will last another 105,000 miles.

Light spray of belt dressing (on the belt) seems to have stopped the noise... for now. Belts have over 6 years and 104,000 miles so I suppose they may be a bit on the dry side. As I said, timing belt being done at dealer tomorrow so I'll have them check the pulleys and supply new fan belts for re-installation. As always, thanks for all the feedback and what-if scenarios.

Yes. Car was sitting still, hence I was able to put my ear close and identify location. This would have been scary in motion! I was just monkeying around removing the piggybacked anti-fouler on the cat when I noticed the sound. It is coming from the area of the p/s a/c or idler and happens at idle and goes away when I turn the a/c on. Car is due for timing belt in 1,000 miles (maybe tomorrow) local special of $299 and I guess they'll have everything out and open anyway. Any thoughts?

05 OB started high pitched "ringing" that goes away when the a/c is turned on. Idler?? Happens at one particular rpm only.

UPDATE: Wife had it out for a couple of hwy. runs (she probably stays closer to 55 mph than Mr. Leadfoot) and now all sensors scan ready! Yippee.

05 OB automatic 105K miles. Noise from front left. Dealer said it was tire cupping so I rotated front to rear. Noise didn't change. Goodyear Triple Treads with 45K miles on them. What else could be causing the noise? Is CV joint noise always a click? The noise is related to speed (rotation). Car rides smooth. I realize that noises are hard enough to diagnose in person no less on the internet, but thanks for any feedback.

Took it for a 55 mph drive for about 20 minutes. All sensors except egr are ready. Found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99980 How's that for complicated??

Just curious. With 24" of snow on the ground, I haven't proceeded any further with mods but after erasing the codes, my code reader still says that MIL not ready for cats and evap. Does this change to ready after a few drive cycles (what is a drive cycle?? distance... speed...) I'm afraid that this won't pass inspection as is...

@GD I hope this would indicate that modding the other two downtream sensors will prevent a recurrence??

@GD, that's my understanding as well. The 05 has two upstream sensors (one on each down pipe) and three post cat sensors (downstream) one after each cat and one after the two exhaust join and sits atop a "muffler" (God help me if it's another cat back there) Setup looks something like top exhaust here @Fairfax I used a cheapo code reader to erase the codes. Fingers crossed but I hate the uncertainty.

OK 600 miles codeless after P0420 mechanical fix (anti-fouler) and today I got two P2096 codes (second one reads P2096P) and some at nasioc report this being related to 05 (with O2 cheaters in place). http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1131438 I did install a biggyback antifouler but will take the advice to remove and drill it and use on driver's side cat and probably get another one and use on the third rear sensor behind where the dual exhaust joins. Has anyone dealt with the 05 before? I will post back or edit but I read somewhere that it has something to do with how the 05 reads the difference between the sensors that varies from other years. Just my luck... Any thoughts?

OK 600 miles codeless after P0420 mechanical fix (anti-fouler) and today I got two P2096 codes (second one reads P2096P) and some at nasioc report this being related to 05 (with O2 cheaters in place). http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1131438 I will take the advice to remove the piggyback, drill it and use on driver's side cat and probably get another one and use on the third rear sensor behind where the dual exhaust joins. Has anyone dealt with the 05 before? I will post back or edit but I read somewhere that it has something to do with how the 05 reads the difference between the sensors that varies from other years. Just my luck... Any thoughts?

Just looked at the pics again... Does the principal mind you parking in his/her spot OR are you the man?

Well that was easier than I thought. Part# 42009 from Autozone's Help aisle. We just had 13" of snow (a dusting to members from Alaska) but I found a clear spot in the driveway and could access the O2 sensor by removing the wheel. Wanted to give it its best shot so I used the 2 anti-foulers in the package, drilling out the one as described and piggybacking it onto the first and used anti-sieze as instructed. The code P0420 in the Autozone readout specified bank1 so I took a chance on the mod for just the sensor behind the passenger cat since AZ only had one package in stock. If the code returns, I will do the driver's side as well as the rear sensor behind where the dual exhausts join, hopefully on a warmer day. Thanks for the help.

non OEM...

15 minutes? Great, I'll be right over... take me about 5 days from Connecticut. Thanks for the clarification on the size.

I went to Autozone and they only had 14 and 18mm. Most of the web write ups (non-subie) speak of 18mm. Is this fix for Subaru 21mm as described earlier? Anyone able to post a part number and supplier for specs? There is discussion of using one or having to piggyback two?? AND lucky me, looks like this car has 5 sensors in all. 2 on each down pipe (PN 22641), 2 behind each cat (PN 22690)and 1 behind the muffler?/cat? right after the two pipes join, also PN 22690. So now do I do all 3 rear sensors? Could they have made it any more complicated?

And in the spirit of the season, the first two stories are worth reading. You can listen to them on Real Player if you have it or it's a free download. http://www.npr.org/programs/watc/storyproject/2000/001203.story.html