brus brother

OK I'll run mine flat. Problem solved! Seriously, how were they when you used the recommended tire pressure for the car as posted on the door jamb?

drats, I just got a set of envigors delivered yesterday but haven't installed them yet. i'll keep you posted.

I know this is out of your area but in the event that some other members read this and need something a little more "easterly" try subarupartsforyou.com in ct. Ask for Anthony or John. LINK

++ retrace your steps as this appears where you first went off track.

Parts are available! Even picked up rings through SOA network of dealers. 360 Club enthusiasts have had windshields made for the group. They're notorious for finding compatible parts from lawnmowers and leafblowers! 2 stroke engine stinks like all get out! As you can see from the video, one of the 360's was stuffed to the roof with parts! Friend has one insured and on the road and maybe another will be pieced together from the trio of rustbuckets.

If you are nostalgic for the good ole days of 360s, here's a link to some that a buddy is restoring.

A little harsh don't you think? There are erasers on pencils because mistakes do happen. Seems like they made good on the "problem" and will hopefully(?) fix the small leak.

Wooah! Now that is for sure some good ole WV broken back ridge fix!

I'm in salty CT with 05 and 08 OBs (both garaged) and so far no such leak. Had one on an early Loyale though...

I'm not sure that the battery disconnect would work. You might have to go to Autozone or another parts dealer with a code reader/eraser and let them do it. You might want to start a separate thread with the question of clearing the codes for a quicker response.

I'm sure Anthony gave you the full parts list but back to your initial complaint... gas caps are cheap or better yet, you can always "borrow" one from Autozone, clear the code and see if the code comes back. I know you are looking at a rusted mess and would like to deal with it but I think proper diagnosis comes before treatment of your initial complaint, Code 0440. Monkeying around with the filler neck if it is not contributory to the code thrown may further complicate the diagnosis.

Same here in lower CT. on the coast. Actually I think last year you got more snow than us.

Contact http://subarupartsforyou.com Speak with Anthony and mention the USMB site. It's an actual dealership w/ online pricing.

When the filler neck on my old GL rusted through, there was a noticeable gasoline drip when the tank was fueled to the max. Clean out all that dirt and junk between the shield (probably best to do without the shield) and you should see dampness on the filler neck at the very least if not an obvious drip. Do the diagnosis before you start throwing parts at the car. As others suggested it could just be a faulty gas cap.

Just found that Tirerack doesn't list the Assurance Triple Tred for the 08 OB because it has H speed rating as compared to original equipment V rating. I was pretty happy with the TTs on my 05 OB but that setup matched the original speed rating of H for the 05. Drats. Any suggestions?

Need new tires for my 08 Outback at 46K. Northeast driving, so All Season tires are in my sight. OEM V rating. Love yours or not?

That's OK, just return it to HD with a big smile and a thank you very much:banana:

From what I've read many many times on this site, you're friend may have made a very poor choice going with Autozone. If you do a search, there is one other manufacturer other than original SOA that gets thumbs up for replacement axles. Otherwise, there seems to be a fair number of vibration problems encountered with aftermarkets. It must be true, I read it on the internet...

1. Loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't overflow while compressing the piston. If you haven't topped off the brake fluid between changing pads, you should have some room to play with. 2. Loosen and remove the lower bolt and swing the caliper up. You can use a bent coat hanger to hook onto the caliper and hook it to the suspension while you are working. Now that you have both hands free take a look at what you have before you. 3. Take off the outer and inner pad noting orientation and where the "squealer" is. The replacement pads may not have a "squealer". You may have to pry the pads a little. 4. Use a C-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new and thicker pads. You can use an old pad to protect the piston if you want to be extra careful not to damage the piston with the clamp. 5. Place brake grease on the back of the new pad where it will contact the shim. 6. Place the new pads as you had removed the old ones. 6. Release and remove the coat hanger and slide the caliper down over the new pads. You may have to rotate the lower pin a little to align and get the caliper to close. 7. Check fluid level in reservoir and tighten cap. Oh yeah, almost forgot, from my own book of mistakes, you will likely have used the c-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new thicker pads now allowing for a little play so don't forget to pump the brakes up before you go tearing out of your driveway!

http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105416&mode=linearplus if you believe the internet, up to tighten (see link above) another procedure description below: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676114

Isn't there a "flat" side to the part that the pin bolts into that's supposed to snug up against the caliper and keep it from spinning? It's been a while since I was in that deep...

REMEMBER that if you decide to go with the old equipment, you have to pump up the brakes since you have pushed the piston back.

sent PM with phone #

and in Greenwich it's more like platinum

Bridgeport to Greenwich... whoaa... movin' on up:banana: