brus brother

Use the SEARCH function on the site as this has been covered. As I recall, sitting in the driver's seat, turn ignition key to the ON position but do not start the car. Then buckle and unbuckle the driver's seat belt rapidly for 10-15 times and then while the belt is buckled, turn the key off and remove the key from the ignition, unbuckle and then exit the car. The next time you put the key in, it will chime a few times and then stop. This worked fine on my 05 OB and the above is the procedure as best as I can remember but as I said, check the site's SEARCH function for "seat belt chime". I found the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57945&highlight=seat+belt+chime

God awful weather and conditions up there in T'rntoe, Mr. Badorties. Really, can I call you H, as experienced a man as you in the workings of a fan should know that lubrication can't hurt. I think gbhrps covered the nitty gritty for you if you decide on a full assault. Still might be time to search the detritus piles of civilization as your avatar's namesake Horse might do and see if a used replacement is on hand. Thanks for reminding me of a good book I read... 30+ years ago! BTW, what is life like in the Waterloo/Kichener area? Just checking out travel there from NYC with a possible change of venue.

That's the best you could do Porcupine?

Deus ex machina?

Step away from the tool chest.

I saw a front view of this and it reminded me of Gort from the movie The Day The Earth Stood Still.

Damnit, they put the steering wheel on the wrong side!

Did you try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and see if that clears the old code? What did the 3 long 5 short flashes indicate on the code sheet for your Model and year?

In the interst of scientific discovery, you could call then your own cell # and ask the new "owner" if any heat was detected when initially "acquiring" the phone.

Intreresting to note that in NYC where smash'n'grab is a time honored profession there also seems to be a fairly large percentage of the population who are packing... but they may be from the same segment of the population...

or sell your car's services "re-sealing" driveways in the neighborhood:lol:

If drained to a reservoir, you could redirect it to a small pump and top off the oil level:banana:TaDa! Nipper is such a purist...

Had anyone previously used your car to jump start another car (or jump started your car)? Sometimes if not done correctly you can do damage.

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Hey oh great Nipster, Is there by any chance a connector that may have become dislodged in cleaning under the seats etc? Jake

\Procrastination is good... summer is just around the corner.

flesh wound!

Yes, I like breaking things myself.

While you did get 2 quotes for the work, I am curious if both shops diagnose the problem as being the tensioner.I hope you catch a break.

Don't mean to be glib but, the car drives... drive it. It is noisy... turn up the radio. My cousin's 98 OB has the wrist pin/piston slap noise and has been driving it for over 70,000 miles since it first developed. He just told his inquisitive neighbors that he is driving a diesel. I have heard it and it sounds like a bucket of bolts when first started but then quiets down after a while. Not what you wanted in your new/used car but it probably will still get you where you want to go. Edit: just saw the other posts that appeared while I was posting. Will they guarantee the diagnosis? If not, you could end up paying for repair work on an engine that still has the same issue you are concerned about. I hope you catch a break.

This is the image that came up Googling smoking+hot+car

You forgot to tell them about the "007 Trail o Fire" effect when combined with a spark.

I particularly like the one procedure mentioned where a series of stops from 100mph to 50mph is used (albeit for the racing pads). That should get the attention of the neighbors!

Well that first procedure will take some time! I don't quite understand how 3-400 miles and of ?what? kind of braking:eek: would matter. 250 miles... keep going, you're not there yet??

Seems like proper order then would be: 1. Starter kit to get the "going" aspect predictable 2. Soon afterwards, the brakes to get the "stopping" aspect predicatble If you've already changed a transmission, these procedures are fairly easy. All the above tips and hints are great. I bled my brakes with a friend lightly depressing the pedal 2/3 and using clear tubing going into a plastic water bottle. What I have done when bleeding the brakes (without the kit) is to make sure there always is a little brake fluid in the water bottle and the tubing submersed in the fluid to be sure that you don't suck air back up when releasing the pedal. The only time I replaced rotors was when I had vibration. The wisdom being that making the rotor thinner by grinding would lead to early warpage again. There have been numerous discussions here of the "warpage" actually just being deposits of brake material. It takes me about 1 hour to change all 4 pads and I have been OK without changing rotors on my later year subies. When pushing the plungers back into the calipers to make room for the new fat brake pads, I use the old barke pad for protection and a big C-clamp for compression. In your case, the car has some years and exposure to the elements to account for so rotors probably wouldn't hurt. 30% remaining pad is a fairly substantial pad left so braking difficulties such as a spongy pedal are likely due to need to bleed brakes. Don't forget the proper bedding of the new pads. AFTER you have determined that you have good braking abilities then properly bed the pads against the rotors. This involves a series of quick stop and gos (the article I read said from 50 to 0mh) making sure not to stop long enough for the pad material to cook onto the rotors. Then just park the car and let everything cool down. Walk away, boot up computer and learn more on USMB.