brus brother

Intreresting to note that in NYC where smash'n'grab is a time honored profession there also seems to be a fairly large percentage of the population who are packing... but they may be from the same segment of the population...

or sell your car's services "re-sealing" driveways in the neighborhood:lol:

If drained to a reservoir, you could redirect it to a small pump and top off the oil level:banana:TaDa! Nipper is such a purist...

Had anyone previously used your car to jump start another car (or jump started your car)? Sometimes if not done correctly you can do damage.

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Hey oh great Nipster, Is there by any chance a connector that may have become dislodged in cleaning under the seats etc? Jake

\Procrastination is good... summer is just around the corner.

flesh wound!

Yes, I like breaking things myself.

While you did get 2 quotes for the work, I am curious if both shops diagnose the problem as being the tensioner.I hope you catch a break.

Don't mean to be glib but, the car drives... drive it. It is noisy... turn up the radio. My cousin's 98 OB has the wrist pin/piston slap noise and has been driving it for over 70,000 miles since it first developed. He just told his inquisitive neighbors that he is driving a diesel. I have heard it and it sounds like a bucket of bolts when first started but then quiets down after a while. Not what you wanted in your new/used car but it probably will still get you where you want to go. Edit: just saw the other posts that appeared while I was posting. Will they guarantee the diagnosis? If not, you could end up paying for repair work on an engine that still has the same issue you are concerned about. I hope you catch a break.

This is the image that came up Googling smoking+hot+car

You forgot to tell them about the "007 Trail o Fire" effect when combined with a spark.

I particularly like the one procedure mentioned where a series of stops from 100mph to 50mph is used (albeit for the racing pads). That should get the attention of the neighbors!

Well that first procedure will take some time! I don't quite understand how 3-400 miles and of ?what? kind of braking:eek: would matter. 250 miles... keep going, you're not there yet??

Seems like proper order then would be: 1. Starter kit to get the "going" aspect predictable 2. Soon afterwards, the brakes to get the "stopping" aspect predicatble If you've already changed a transmission, these procedures are fairly easy. All the above tips and hints are great. I bled my brakes with a friend lightly depressing the pedal 2/3 and using clear tubing going into a plastic water bottle. What I have done when bleeding the brakes (without the kit) is to make sure there always is a little brake fluid in the water bottle and the tubing submersed in the fluid to be sure that you don't suck air back up when releasing the pedal. The only time I replaced rotors was when I had vibration. The wisdom being that making the rotor thinner by grinding would lead to early warpage again. There have been numerous discussions here of the "warpage" actually just being deposits of brake material. It takes me about 1 hour to change all 4 pads and I have been OK without changing rotors on my later year subies. When pushing the plungers back into the calipers to make room for the new fat brake pads, I use the old barke pad for protection and a big C-clamp for compression. In your case, the car has some years and exposure to the elements to account for so rotors probably wouldn't hurt. 30% remaining pad is a fairly substantial pad left so braking difficulties such as a spongy pedal are likely due to need to bleed brakes. Don't forget the proper bedding of the new pads. AFTER you have determined that you have good braking abilities then properly bed the pads against the rotors. This involves a series of quick stop and gos (the article I read said from 50 to 0mh) making sure not to stop long enough for the pad material to cook onto the rotors. Then just park the car and let everything cool down. Walk away, boot up computer and learn more on USMB.

Oh, high quality artificial...

Slow down puppy and step away from the torch! Have you seen and followed the following link for tips? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226 I don't know much except that my Subaru just HATES an open flame. I am really just stalling for time until someone more knowledgeable stops you from hurting yourself. Good luck.

But when had you last filled up the gas tank?

Yet, you say... no doubt there are risk takers out there... The cost difference of a discounted Subaru filter at $14 and STP at $11 could potentially send shock waves through the subprime mortgage industry already leaning towards collapse. I'm not sure I can live with the risks of losing the house especially since the garage is attached!.

As in the title, is there a significant difference between Subaru and STP air filters for my 05 Outback?

Outstanding! That'll teach you to go lapdancing with deer.

Dear Madam;) Just this week I was in a Subie dealership where a customer was receiving instructions on the facts of life regarding gas caps. The tech reminded her to tighten the cap until she heard it click three or four times. This is obviously not a gender specific issue;) as gas caps show no overt signs of discrimination. Hope this helps.

Yup, changed over to winter air today!

wild guess... new clutch?