brus brother

you betcha, search "Toom Bumper" on youtube.com

I know this is not Subie specific and I will probably be banned to the Off-Topic board for life but I couldn't stop laughing and wanted to share.

The "kill battery" switch gets us all one time or another. Having passed the "Doh" test, feel free to have head gasket issues anytime you want now.

Try moving the front tires to the rear and see if the steering wheel shimmy stops. If so check tires. If not continue to dig.

no

Zacklee:grin:

Wish I could help but I speak, write and read only Japanese:grin:.

Worked like a charm. Followed the description emailed to me from AVK to replace the inner boot without removing the axle entirely: Punch out the pin. Unbolt sway bar link from control arm, and control arm from crossmember at the forward mount. Then there's enough play in the aftmount to swing the wheel out from the bottom and knuckle with halfshaft far enough for the joint housing to slide off the stub shaft. Pick out the large c-clip inside the "can" with a screwdiver or even your fingernail and then you really do need a c-clip remover to get the small c-clip off the shaft end and then the three balls are right there to clean, clean old grease out of the can add grease and reverse order to get her back together. When you put it back together, tighten the control arm and sway bar link bolts with wheels on the ground, or at least on ramps, otherwise the bushings will be twisted. Other boots seemed fine so I decided to just do this one AND I had access to a lift. MWE, Subaru axle rebuilders with good prices and great help, suggested that inner torn boots were more forgiving than outer and worth a try and seconded AVK's approach.

Exactly how I would proceed before running in circles, screaming and shouting.

I have a 200 Legacy GT 2.5 4 cyl auto and that's about the same mileage I get. I can use 87 octane in mine most times of the year (a little knock in summertime). If your's is a manual trany you could expect better mileage. I've read that a failing front O2 sensor can worsen performance.

alt

I run the tubing into a small bottle with brake fluid in it so there is no chance of sucking back any air.

I am confused. My driver's side cv inner boot is torn and have never done a boot or half-shaft change. Is it really possible to remove the half-shaft from the transmission without separating the shaft from the wheel and replacing the cv boot without removing the half-shaft from the car?

Clogged radiator? If you replace the thermostat, genuine Subaru is recommended on this site.

Emily, I just noticed that your bio is "Subaru Whisperer";) Quite right.

Thanks for all the replies. I can now stop the running in circles and screaming bit. BTW I'll take the rag out first thing in the am.

Missing oil cap noted today on a friends car... not a Subaru! Until she gets a replacement, is there anything I should do? Rag in hole, wired tight? Run in circles scream and shout?

I agree with Nipper have the Er um and the timing belt done at the same time but if you are at all handy, check around here for discussions on DIY fluid changes. Under a similar situation, I walked into the Parts Dept. bought the t-belt, asked for their on-line price and left it on the front seat for the SOA mechanic to replace when he did the job. Cost me about $57. I'm not sure about the price on the Er um.

Get your money back... what a scam!

OK I know you'll all tell me I'm going to CV hell but my buddy with the lift said he always wanted to try a split boot so he bought one for me and wants to see how it works. He's convinced that it will be easy on the lift and worth a shot. Waddayasay?

you betcha

Called another local Subie dealer. He said $230 to do inner boot. If outer is shot as well then just put reman shaft in for $390 and drive away. He too didn't consider the axle seal as a must do. I can't see how the first dealer could have determined axle seal was bad considering the grease slopped all over the area. When I questioned the first dealer, he said he could do the 2 boots and axle seal for combined $500! What a deal... er steal. As always, thanks for the direction.

Had my 2000 LegacyGT in for free oil change (lifetime ) and was told when I picked it up that I need to replace torn driver side inner and outer CV boots AND axle seals. Had it up on a friend's lift and sure enough there was enough grease slung around the inner boot to confirm that aspect. Didn't notice any problem with the outer boot. There is no clicking sound yet on turns. Car has 102,000 miles on it. I didn't notice any leaks on the passenger side. Prices quoted: 2 boots x $40 + 2.0 labor = $270 axle seal(s?) $28 + 3.0 labor = $315 Questions: 1. Should I change the boots or replace axle at 102,000 miles? What is the life expectancy of axles? 2. What should the upcharge be for changing the axle seal(s) at the same time as the cv work or is it unrelated? Am I being hammered?

Ah, young grasshopper, after all the advice that came too late, I too was in haste when I was 23! Age will temper you but the bleed screw, well that's something else.

If I remember correctly, there is a fluorescent dye that SOA can add to the coolant. After a couple of days, they can inspect the engine and surrounds with a UV light that will show if and where the leak is located. Of course this is not helpful with internal leaks but if it is an external leak that is evaporating on contact with a hot engine or exhaust.