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Everything posted by brus brother
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Called another local Subie dealer. He said $230 to do inner boot. If outer is shot as well then just put reman shaft in for $390 and drive away. He too didn't consider the axle seal as a must do. I can't see how the first dealer could have determined axle seal was bad considering the grease slopped all over the area. When I questioned the first dealer, he said he could do the 2 boots and axle seal for combined $500! What a deal... er steal. As always, thanks for the direction.
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Had my 2000 LegacyGT in for free oil change (lifetime ) and was told when I picked it up that I need to replace torn driver side inner and outer CV boots AND axle seals. Had it up on a friend's lift and sure enough there was enough grease slung around the inner boot to confirm that aspect. Didn't notice any problem with the outer boot. There is no clicking sound yet on turns. Car has 102,000 miles on it. I didn't notice any leaks on the passenger side. Prices quoted: 2 boots x $40 + 2.0 labor = $270 axle seal(s?) $28 + 3.0 labor = $315 Questions: 1. Should I change the boots or replace axle at 102,000 miles? What is the life expectancy of axles? 2. What should the upcharge be for changing the axle seal(s) at the same time as the cv work or is it unrelated? Am I being hammered?
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If I remember correctly, there is a fluorescent dye that SOA can add to the coolant. After a couple of days, they can inspect the engine and surrounds with a UV light that will show if and where the leak is located. Of course this is not helpful with internal leaks but if it is an external leak that is evaporating on contact with a hot engine or exhaust.
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AT was replaced about 35K ago and figured I'd do a drain and fill. I didn't think to check the level before the drain and simply replaced the 4 1/2 quarts that I got out. Drove it around and now the fluid level is about an inch above the hot high indicator. Is this crucial? Is it possible that it was overfilled all this time without causing problems? Is the 4 1/2 quarts about right for the drain from the pan?
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D..rats! Thought the bolts were affixed (permanaently) to the mirror mounting plate and there were nuts that attached from the inside. If it looks as though the threaded shaft will thread into the mirror mounting plate, take the remaining nut off and match the thread and bolt size at a hardware store.
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Are you actually viewing it from inside the door panel?? If you remove the triangular shaped piece on the inside aspect of the door relative to the mirror (sometimes there are tweeter speakers mounted here) there are retaining nuts that attach to bolts that are affixed to the mirror. IIRC, the lower nut holds the speaker in place over the same bolt from the mirror.
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I had a problem with my old 90 Loyale. Hard turns (mine was to the right) allowed oil to be slung into the combustion chamber I think had something to do with the pcv setup. There was a Subaru fix for this (I never did it) maybe with a check valve?? It's been a while. I'll try a search. It would do a 007 smoke!! Found an old link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27999&highlight=smoking+on+turns It describes my problem but solution for you may be just to get a Subaru PCV valve. Has yours ever been changed? Again genuine Subaru recommended.
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Unless you have one of those special one man bleader kits with a check valve, this is generally best done with a helper. Was the end of the hose submersed in a bottle of clean brake fluid so as to not suck air back into the line when you let off the brake? Depress pedal slowly but not to the floor completely? Tighten the bleed valve and then release the pedal? Took me a few tries to get it right. I don't think yours is an issue of pads and rotors either.
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My 2000 AT was replaced under warranty at 35K for known problem of delayed engagement and then at 50k under extended warranty for the pinion gear noise and then again under extended warranty at 76K for a clicking noise. Putting a used one is like marrying someone else's ex. You may be in store for some suprises after you spend hours tranny swapping.
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Unless of course a non Subie tech actually drained the AT fluid and unwittingly overfilled the oil. I don't recall if you specified manual or auto transmission. If automatic, for peace of mind, check the AT fluid. If it is only a case of overfilled oil, I have also had Subie techs overfill my oil (generous fellows) and simply took it back for them to adjust. Lesson learned... check your car after service. As to a brake job at 30K, some drivers ride the brake and can result in early wear however, before I started doing my own brakes, I had "aggressive" mechanics sell me brake jobs long before actually necessary. Lesson learned... learn to do whatever you feel comfortable with and you'll have no one to blame but yourself.