brus brother

Emily, I just noticed that your bio is "Subaru Whisperer";) Quite right.

Thanks for all the replies. I can now stop the running in circles and screaming bit. BTW I'll take the rag out first thing in the am.

Missing oil cap noted today on a friends car... not a Subaru! Until she gets a replacement, is there anything I should do? Rag in hole, wired tight? Run in circles scream and shout?

I agree with Nipper have the Er um and the timing belt done at the same time but if you are at all handy, check around here for discussions on DIY fluid changes. Under a similar situation, I walked into the Parts Dept. bought the t-belt, asked for their on-line price and left it on the front seat for the SOA mechanic to replace when he did the job. Cost me about $57. I'm not sure about the price on the Er um.

Get your money back... what a scam!

OK I know you'll all tell me I'm going to CV hell but my buddy with the lift said he always wanted to try a split boot so he bought one for me and wants to see how it works. He's convinced that it will be easy on the lift and worth a shot. Waddayasay?

you betcha

Called another local Subie dealer. He said $230 to do inner boot. If outer is shot as well then just put reman shaft in for $390 and drive away. He too didn't consider the axle seal as a must do. I can't see how the first dealer could have determined axle seal was bad considering the grease slopped all over the area. When I questioned the first dealer, he said he could do the 2 boots and axle seal for combined $500! What a deal... er steal. As always, thanks for the direction.

Had my 2000 LegacyGT in for free oil change (lifetime ) and was told when I picked it up that I need to replace torn driver side inner and outer CV boots AND axle seals. Had it up on a friend's lift and sure enough there was enough grease slung around the inner boot to confirm that aspect. Didn't notice any problem with the outer boot. There is no clicking sound yet on turns. Car has 102,000 miles on it. I didn't notice any leaks on the passenger side. Prices quoted: 2 boots x $40 + 2.0 labor = $270 axle seal(s?) $28 + 3.0 labor = $315 Questions: 1. Should I change the boots or replace axle at 102,000 miles? What is the life expectancy of axles? 2. What should the upcharge be for changing the axle seal(s) at the same time as the cv work or is it unrelated? Am I being hammered?

Ah, young grasshopper, after all the advice that came too late, I too was in haste when I was 23! Age will temper you but the bleed screw, well that's something else.

If I remember correctly, there is a fluorescent dye that SOA can add to the coolant. After a couple of days, they can inspect the engine and surrounds with a UV light that will show if and where the leak is located. Of course this is not helpful with internal leaks but if it is an external leak that is evaporating on contact with a hot engine or exhaust.

Isn't Emily at CCR doing used/rebuild transmissions or was I only having a good dream?

I'm trying to locate an in dash 45 rpm record player:lol: That's where it's at... cool.

Cheers for Gnu! There is also a device for transferring analog audio to digital audio so you can save all the music on the cassettes to a digital format (MP3/CD/DVD, whatever) and upgrade the player. I know it's hard to enter new technology. I still have 8 track tapes that I need to catalogue;).

My experience with cassette decks is that generally what goes south is nothing more than a dried out drive belt. See if you can open and get a replacement belt.

did that same fuse blow again after replacement?

JC Whitney carries these!

Nope, tell them to FIX it... or ask a regional representative to meet you and show you another similar year and model that acts the same.

Makes sense to me as well but I'm not much for waiting... I don't even buy green fruit!

AT was replaced about 35K ago and figured I'd do a drain and fill. I didn't think to check the level before the drain and simply replaced the 4 1/2 quarts that I got out. Drove it around and now the fluid level is about an inch above the hot high indicator. Is this crucial? Is it possible that it was overfilled all this time without causing problems? Is the 4 1/2 quarts about right for the drain from the pan?

Does the sound go away when you step on the brake? If so could be a wear indicator ("tweeter") on the brake pad.

D..rats! Thought the bolts were affixed (permanaently) to the mirror mounting plate and there were nuts that attached from the inside. If it looks as though the threaded shaft will thread into the mirror mounting plate, take the remaining nut off and match the thread and bolt size at a hardware store.

Are you actually viewing it from inside the door panel?? If you remove the triangular shaped piece on the inside aspect of the door relative to the mirror (sometimes there are tweeter speakers mounted here) there are retaining nuts that attach to bolts that are affixed to the mirror. IIRC, the lower nut holds the speaker in place over the same bolt from the mirror.

I had a problem with my old 90 Loyale. Hard turns (mine was to the right) allowed oil to be slung into the combustion chamber I think had something to do with the pcv setup. There was a Subaru fix for this (I never did it) maybe with a check valve?? It's been a while. I'll try a search. It would do a 007 smoke!! Found an old link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27999&highlight=smoking+on+turns It describes my problem but solution for you may be just to get a Subaru PCV valve. Has yours ever been changed? Again genuine Subaru recommended.

'Twas the technique NOT the synthetic. Happy braking!