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Everything posted by brus brother
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AT was replaced about 35K ago and figured I'd do a drain and fill. I didn't think to check the level before the drain and simply replaced the 4 1/2 quarts that I got out. Drove it around and now the fluid level is about an inch above the hot high indicator. Is this crucial? Is it possible that it was overfilled all this time without causing problems? Is the 4 1/2 quarts about right for the drain from the pan?
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D..rats! Thought the bolts were affixed (permanaently) to the mirror mounting plate and there were nuts that attached from the inside. If it looks as though the threaded shaft will thread into the mirror mounting plate, take the remaining nut off and match the thread and bolt size at a hardware store.
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Are you actually viewing it from inside the door panel?? If you remove the triangular shaped piece on the inside aspect of the door relative to the mirror (sometimes there are tweeter speakers mounted here) there are retaining nuts that attach to bolts that are affixed to the mirror. IIRC, the lower nut holds the speaker in place over the same bolt from the mirror.
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I had a problem with my old 90 Loyale. Hard turns (mine was to the right) allowed oil to be slung into the combustion chamber I think had something to do with the pcv setup. There was a Subaru fix for this (I never did it) maybe with a check valve?? It's been a while. I'll try a search. It would do a 007 smoke!! Found an old link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27999&highlight=smoking+on+turns It describes my problem but solution for you may be just to get a Subaru PCV valve. Has yours ever been changed? Again genuine Subaru recommended.
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Unless you have one of those special one man bleader kits with a check valve, this is generally best done with a helper. Was the end of the hose submersed in a bottle of clean brake fluid so as to not suck air back into the line when you let off the brake? Depress pedal slowly but not to the floor completely? Tighten the bleed valve and then release the pedal? Took me a few tries to get it right. I don't think yours is an issue of pads and rotors either.
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My 2000 AT was replaced under warranty at 35K for known problem of delayed engagement and then at 50k under extended warranty for the pinion gear noise and then again under extended warranty at 76K for a clicking noise. Putting a used one is like marrying someone else's ex. You may be in store for some suprises after you spend hours tranny swapping.
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Unless of course a non Subie tech actually drained the AT fluid and unwittingly overfilled the oil. I don't recall if you specified manual or auto transmission. If automatic, for peace of mind, check the AT fluid. If it is only a case of overfilled oil, I have also had Subie techs overfill my oil (generous fellows) and simply took it back for them to adjust. Lesson learned... check your car after service. As to a brake job at 30K, some drivers ride the brake and can result in early wear however, before I started doing my own brakes, I had "aggressive" mechanics sell me brake jobs long before actually necessary. Lesson learned... learn to do whatever you feel comfortable with and you'll have no one to blame but yourself.
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Pinging!
brus brother replied to aartod's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Tried it all on my 2000 Legacy GT, cooler plugs, higher grade gas, Scientology...no difference. It's just another sound of summer. I get the feeling there is a missing link in the sensor department that would adjust for air and humidity...