brus brother

Great, and if by chance the former owner is Ebineezer Scrooge, a pantheistic agnostic or Islamic fundamentalist... you're toast!

Check the owner's manual. I think there is an allen key wrench that can be used to close the moonroof. It may not be effective in your case as it may still rely on the same "scissor" mechanism to actuate the closing and if this is the case:banghead:... as you already mentioned.

Can you tug it gently and give it an assist to close until someone more knowlegeable chime in?

As per your post, if you find antifreeze pooling on the outside of the engine, why do you think your leak is internal? The 00 models are prone to external HG failure right at the area you describe and SOA extended the warranty to 100,000 miles and 8 years (did you get a notice?) IF you allowed them to put a conditioner (some sort of stop leak) in the coolant. Get the codes cleared quietly, have the conditioner added and then go back and let them determine if the HGs are failing. Is the 140,000 mileage you quote in miles or kilometers?

So will they now be changing the HGs anyway to replace the pistons?

There is a dye that you can add to the system and check with a UV light for subtle leaks but your's seems like it should be fairly noticeable with the naked eye. The 2000s were part of the external head gasket leak crowd and I think the principal offending area was at the rear cylinder on the driver's side. It may be cooking off on the hot engine and therefore not noticeable but again the volume you mention seems pretty significant. Look for crusty staining on the engine and check for external leaks while the engine is still hot.

What year and model? Sounds like an internal leak. Any vapor out the tail pipe? Any history of overheating?

Probably all the cars they couldn't sell here.

Yippee... I love a happy ending.

This might not be the right forum for this issue but since the issue of headlight power and glare is on the table I'd thought I'd add the following: after many years of puzzling how to eliminate glare from headlights, I Googled polarized headlights and was surprised to find that in the 1920s Edwin Land (think Polaroid Land camera) had proposed the solution by polarizing headlights and windshields or glasses that would solve the problem. http://www.polarization.com/land/land.html Finally dismissed in the 1940s, 2 lane highways and low/high beams were deemed adequate solutions, and the rest is history. Likely I am not alone when it comes to that uneasy moment of looking to the side of the road to avoid the glare. The expression "it goes without saying" only holds if no one says anything. There oughta be a law... OK, Rant over... ban me to OFF TOPIC.

OK you shamed me into inspecting my grounds. I found the connection to the engine and firewall alright but the split wire off the neg terminal where it grounds to the fender was pretty crusty. Wire brushed and reconnected. Should I coat the exterior of these connections with dielecric grease? I have been having some dimming of lights when braking and will report back if there is any change.

Did you remove/open the air filter box or any other of the related components to access the plugs? You may have just not connected them properly. This happened to me and made the car sound "throatier". Also, if there has been a drastic change in performance after doing the work, you may have disconnected a vacuum line.

Looks like you are still under warranty (04 with 24,000 miles) . I would get thee soon to a dealer and pitch a bit@h.

The lighting for the radio and HVAC went out for about 3 days. The radio and HVAC worked fine, just the lights were out. All other dash lights worked as expected. After a few days, the lights became operative again. I documented this with the dealer but they were unable to reproduce. Anyone else have a similar problem or idea of what posssessed my car?

Use your insurance. Explain what happened.

Standard setup. I don't know if it was HID or not.

First one went last year and was replaced and my second one went out last week. There is a bulletin or recall since the first one so now they replaced both bulbs. Rear driving bulb died last month but I suppose that's just coincidence... for now.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com Right in your own back yard in Milford CT. Genuine Subaru parts at discount.

The Nipper saga included replacing the engine before making it back across the Donner pass.

If you can do the repair as described above, I would suggest you try it and if it works, either return the item or put it on the shelf until you really need it. The less you take apart, the less parts you can lose, break, reinstall incorrectly... As I recall, the Subie tech explained the repair as pinching the outer and inner aspects of the triangular piece together. Aside from closing the door using the glass (you don't), the distortion can happen when the passenger (plus size) is trying to exit the car in a tight parking spot and pushes against the glass.

...2 engines...

Did you take the module out to clean it, check wiring harness, caress, cajole, plead, wiggle, tap it gently with the heel of your shoe? You can always get a replacement but... is there a board member that could help with checking the harness i.e. jump it and make sure that it's not other than a bad switch module?? Cougar? Chief Tim? Nipper? Car 54 where are you?

Distant memory of my 90 Loyale was that the buttons were vacuum related. On the 90 Loyale I had somehow disconnected a small diameter (same as windshield washer hose size) vacuum hose in the engine compartment on the passenger side just in front of the windshield. I can't remember if this stopped the buttons from working as you described or if the operation of the unit become non-functional until I reconnected the hose.

Get a trailer hitch and tow (flatbed of course) another sube behind you and you'll never want for spare parts;)

So, is the brass cannister thing part of the fuel pump? I thought I read that your problem persisted even with a new pump in place??