brus brother

IIRC, your dad's CEL comes and goes. Remind him to go to Autozone with the CEL on and ask the rep to come and read it while the car is still running in case the CEL decides to go out after he drove there. Anyway, this gent's seems to be staying on. Harbor Freight has an OBD scanner for about $40 and they always have some sort of promotion (% off or $5 off order)that would make up for small shipping charge.

There is an Autozone in Riverhead on L.I. and they will pull the code for free. It's a bit of a drive but perhaps another chain more local offers the same service.

The Subie techs refer to it as the battery kill switch... kaching$$

So he definitely is "cool".

John, Parts seem reasonable and service appears satisfactory. What's the name of the supplier you used in CT? Good luck this weekend

The scientificological approach:banana:.

As you know Nippy, I've been after this since 99 :horse:when I bought the 00 new. The other two current posters on this issue are 00 owners and I am trying to determine if a pattern exists at least in this micro-group of 00 owners. I've had other cars ping before under heavy and hard acceleration but this is different and Subie techs who have worked on solving the problem scratch their heads when I come by (they don't seem to be inclined to accept SOA's "normal" condition explanation). The latest suggestion is a lower temp thermostat but as in the case of using cooler plugs, I question going out of spec since it is only noticeable when ambient temp is above 60F and possibly? humidity related.

I m using an NGK plug BKR7E11, one step colder than spec on my 2000 and the change is marginal if at all noticeable. Is this a MY 2000 thing or are other years experiencing the same ping under light acceleration? Mine is more noticeable during the summer months.

I think a good wash with TSP and then prime and paint. If it fails in 2-3 years, you can try a different technique but... nothing is forever.

OK Nipper, this has gone on long enough. Would you please go over to Sean's and beat the truth out of him. He finally admits the passenger side! What else is he holding back? Now if you would only crawl up under there with a match (JUST KIDDING:eek:) and look see where the gas is leaking, Sean's problem would be solved. If it is the filler tube, online venders have it for about $90 but be very specific including Vin# as they vary even within the same year. I have heard it is a pain to loosen the old screws up top.

The condition I am referencing leaks in an area that would be comparable to a J-trap in a sink, therefore it will leak out until the trap is empty whether you fill up or just a few gallons. The end result will be the seepage of that gas that is left in the "trap". Then again, it may be a different leak altogether.

Sounds like the filler tube, although your first post did say the gas was leaking from high on top of tank?? Notorious on early 90s Subaru is the rusting of the filler tube... which seeps especially when the tank is first filled up. There is a "protective" shroud covering the lower portion of the filler tube next to the right rear wheel. This protective sheath actually traps road salt and dirt and moisture which ultimately results in a corroded piece of metal. When you fix one pinhole, another opens up. Best to find a replacement and do the job once and right

I love happy endings.

Agreed. Keep us posted. Call them and speak to a person... email is easy to ignore. If they don't accomodate you, flame them here. It's sites like our message board that build their business.

Congratulations for NOT lap dancing with Bambi. Take off interior triangle, remove tweeter if there is one present, the same nuts that hold the speaker on will be holding the mirror. I recently got a toyota replacement from http://www.partstrain.com and saved BIG bucks (not male deer). Compare with the online discount Subaru parts dealers.

Who did you order from? Let them ship the others without charging you for the additional shipping.

:clap:Congratulations and continue to become familiar with this site. While you are busy spiffying up your new car, check out the gas filler tube next to the right rear tire. There is a "protective" shroud at the lowest point that actually traps road dirt which ultimately stays damp and is notorious for causing rust through. Rinse it out vigorously with a hose and you should be good to go.

Sorry, I didn't see that you weren't from "around here". The US bumper to bumper warranty is for 3 years/36,000 miles so if the warranties are comparable, your warranty would extend for about 58,000 kilometers. Does that help you?? As far as changing the fuse, can't hurt but likely not the culprit. I think your initial suspision of relay is closer to a cause.

Check the clutch on the 95 with 100K. Drive down the road, put it in fourth gear early and step on the gas to see if it is slips under load. It's a $7-800 repair at some point but again this is a good car if'n you like manuals (better gas mileage and the auto tranny is no longer a potential question mark). Shop hard.

Just kidding... as I tell my wife, "I heard you twice the first time".

But do you have an opinion?

3 year/36K warranty bumper to bumper (clock and radio fall somewhere between both bumpers).

True, the Lowoil "seeps" more than leaks but when that stuff sprays back on the exhaust, it's pretty stanky and a real nuisance.

Keep those posts coming in. Two more posts required for a complimentary smile from moderator of your choice:). Seriously though, I recently spoke directly with NGK for a question regarding using cooler than spec plug and they couldn't have been more gracious. Give them a shout if your local auto supply dealer can't tell you.

Buy the white one... white cars last longer;)