brus brother

If the Loyale lives up to its reputation, there should be enough oil leaks to rent your services to reseal asphalt driveways. The engine is powerful enough but the seals leak and this one is old enough to be time worn.The Legacy wagon seems a better bet for room and vintage.

May be so, just checked and Auto Barn shows no replacement for rear wiper! That's a Subaru gotcha... At least try and get it from one of the on-line discount Subaru parts dealers when ordering other parts.

I guess you alrady checked auto supply stores? I know they have a book that cross references with Anco, Bosch wiper blades/arms etc.

...or a girl? Try to get one with low mileage and a warranty...

For my 2000 Legacy GT, I've had two sets of Dunlop Sport A2 with disappointing wear, also a bit noisy. I'm looking at Kumho Grand Touring All-Season for Northeast US driving. Tirerack has them for $65. Fair price for a fair tire?

Hate to be a pain but looks can be deceiving. Did you mean to say that you pulled the fuses and checked for continuity? If you didn't, do so now. Common things occur commonly.

Remove contents of wallet?

Timing belt is supposed to be good for 105K. Their advice seems suspect You can clean the throttle body yourself with spray cleaner. Engine "knock"? I have "pinging" with 87 octane in my 2000 Legacy GT in warmer weather under light load acceleration. OK in winter.

Did you remove the air filter components and/or windshield washer bottle (depending on side and model/year) for better access? If you are talking about the plug wires and they are regular plug wires, just grab the boot as close to the plug as possible, squeeze the boot, twist it, wiggle it left and right, up and down, cuss three or four times and give it a pull. If it separates from the plug connector, well you'll need to replace it but I don't know of any other magic.

Open window, open door, pinch the top of the plastic triangle slightly, drive around and pinch more if needed.

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182 The above is step by step and sequence for bleeding Subie brakes. Check the manual but I think there is fluid that is compatable with either.

Bleed the brakes.

From the school of tap it gently with the heel of your shoe...

If you invision the trangular shaped piece that the mirror is attached to, like a sail, pinch the top portion of the trangle. Remember the forces that initially distort this piece are from the window being man handled. Your objective is to reverse this action... sorry no picture yet.

I love the scientificological approach. Go Nippy!

Breaking News: Nipper goes out on a limb with outrageous claims...

Are you using Suabru or aftermarket parts? This may explain some of the wirigging.

The Subaru parts department parts blow up will show all the scews, connectors and widgets. I doubt the manuals would be that specific.

I've used the following technique for various applications. Go to your local Subie dealer parts department and ask them to copy the parts page for your sunroof;). That should show you the innards and you'll probably be able to figure out what's what from there.

I didn't mean to trash Autolite plugs. What Nipper accurately pointed out to me is that though the cooler NGK plug was accurately cross-referenced to an Autolite plug, the issue of temperature range was better addressed by staying within a manufacturer since it is in fact a "range". The pinging issue was much resolved when I went back to the NGK series and experimented within their ranges. With some trial and error, likely there is an Autolite plug that would suit my needs but for the moment, I was able to eliminate one possible variable by staying within one manufacturer.

So do you add octane boost every tank??$? I am using 87 octane as spec for car. The cooler plug was a suggestion from the site and agreed upon by subaru tech who has tried every other trick in the book to remedy this pinging situation which existed from day 1 for the car. This included flashing the computer, new plugs, air and fuel filter, checked and replaced timing belts, changed knock and MAP sensor, head gasket and checked and removed any trace of carbon, cleaned throttle body and did upper engine cleaning with Subaru top engine cleaner and Seafoam.I've been using the new plug for less than a week but the pinging seems to be reduced. The problem is definitely related to ambient temp and humidity so I'll give it a little more time before posting the actual results.

Well, I'm all for staying within one's comfort range and knowing when to say when, but I've done my 2000 Legacy plugs a few times, making sure to use antisieze compound on the threads. The plugs may be bit tight to remove at 30K miles but subsequent changes with the antisieze compound make it a snap. Access may be a pain, but slowly remove the air intake on the right and window washer on the left (drain, unplug and unbolt). The first time will take a little deciphering but it is intuitive and you'll get it.Go slow, one at a time, grab the boot not the wire and give it a side to side and out pull. I have found that the OEM plugs are gapped properly and Subies seem to like the NGK spec plugs though recently I switched one step cooler experimenting with a pinging problem (another story). Carefully thread the new plug in by hand and don't force it. If it seems hard, stop and rotate counterclockwise and then rethread so as to not cross the threads. It's a feel thing. Use the search function on the site and there are instructions for changing fuel filter.

List the items they want to do for $900. As I recall, a lot of the items on the check list besides plugs and oil are check this, inspect that, fill washer fluid, drain wallet... I would say that depending on your driving conditions, the brake fluid could be changed when you do your first brake pad change.

Once again, the Grand Poobah Nipper is spot on. I have been wrestling with pinging for many years and in an attempt to reduce it, I switched to a cooler plug. NGK wasn't available so I went with the cross referenced Autolite and wasted my money. The pinging was worse. As per Nippy's suggestion, I finally got the NGK cooler range plug and there seems to be some improvement but certainly better than the Autolite experiment.