brus brother

Return it ... and ask for a full refund.

OK Nipper, if you're so smart, can you spell Mississippi?

If the fuse verifies torque bind, from what I've read here, change the transmission fluid a few times yourself, just drain and fill, drive around for a few days, drain and fill again and maybe again but NO transmission flush and sometimes it clears up. I think theory has it that the flushes might loosen up stuff that is better left undisturbed.... I only know what I've read!

Could your jinglings be engine pinging which sometimes sounds like chains rattling? This would occur under load.

My recent experience with SOA retail... brake pads for $90 YIKES! Are those extra shims made from titanium? At least there is some relief from online dealers but even the $65 on line price seems a tad high. In addition, considering Autozone's lifetime rotor warranty (read no more concern for warpage etc.), SOA seems userous there as well. Let the buyer beware.

Damned if I didn't do that myself... the subie got a little breathy till I figured it out...

Well then, does it make a substantial Woofa Woofa Woofa Woofa sound when you hurl it across the room in disgust?

Just saw Harbor Freight selling a 1/2" cicker torque wrench for $13.00. Has anyone used these and can comment on accuracy and durability? Would you trust it to torque a head with one of these?

Good warning though. We don't want this fellow smooching with an airbag whilst trying to fix his horn.

The Nipster may be correct: Replacing Subarus aging Loyale, the subcompact Impreza came in 4-door sedan and station wagon form, with standard front drive or optional permanently engaged all-wheel drive. Sales began in spring of 1993. Both body styles came in L or step-up LS trim, and seated five. A driver-side airbag was standard; antilock braking standard on the LS. Another site mentions that dual airbags came on the scene in 1994.

I just replaced front rotors and brake pads using SOA genuine parts and following instructions from the board, thanks. :banana:The kit included grease with instructions of greasing between backplate of pad and rubberized shim. Also instructed to grease the surface of support that recieves clip as well as surface of clip which is to be attached to pad. The rear set includes similar parts but no grease or instructions as above. Should I get some brake anti-squeal grease from Autozone and apply same as above? Probably a dumb question but confidence lacking competence can be dangerous.

There is some elementary knowledge of electrical current involved here and if you don't already understand it, now is the time. I am no expert so it would be appreciated if another board member can correct me if I'm wrong so that we don't change bhelser into "sparky". The horn operates on the electric current supplied to it from your 12 volt battery through a few switches and relays. The electic current needs a complete circuit from the battery to the horn and back from the horn to the battery in order for the electric circuit to be complete and functional. For background purposes only and not as credit towards a doctorate degree in electrophysics, be advised that the current flows from the negative (ground)(-) to positive (+). http://www.mste.uiuc.edu/murphy/HoleFlow/default.html OK, enuf learnin', let's get fixin'. First you need to determine whether in fact your horns are operative or have been rusted solid. You can supply current directly to the horn using a simple jumper cable. There should be a wire running to the horn. Disconnect this wire. Check to make sure the terminal on the horn is clear of rust etc. and check the inside of the wire connection also. I am a little fuzzy here but I believe the ground (negative) at the horn is achieved by the bolt attaching the horn to the car which makes its way back to the battery via the grounded wire attached to the negative (black) terminal on the battery. To be certain, you could establish a ground from the negative (black) terminal on the battery to the body of the horn by using a wire with alligator clips from the battery(-) and running to some bare metal (scrape the paint off) of the horn. Now you can connect a long wire with an alligator clip from the terminal on the horn and touch the other end to the positive (red) terminal on the battery, the horn should work. If it doesn't or only makes a faint chirping sound, the horn is rusted or crudded up on the inside. Report back and we'll try and figure out how to get you good and horny.

How about heading RichieRich's advice and hotwire the horns directly from the battery and see if those tooters even work?

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Fuel+Pipe&model=Legacy If you check out the above link, I'll think you'll find that Nipper's caveats might be spot on. There are numerous web discounted Subaru parts dealers out there. The above link happens to be near me in CT. As for the $150 price given you, even retail doesn't come close to that for your model year so that dealer might have been sticking up the old gas pipe for you. Your's discounted could run you $89-$99 plus s/h. But beware that apparently there are two different models for 1996 based on month of production and Vin. Then again you might be able to hammer anything home to your satisfaction. These pipes rust out beacuse the "protective" shroud traps dirt and road salt = hole.

The salesmen I've asked seemed unimpressed with sales figures... I personally would have preferred had they expanded on the Outback 05 styling and functionality (kinda like a mini Lexus) and look forward to the B9 style sensibility driving away. (Admittedly, the grillwork seems balanced on smaller models likely the WRX). If only the world was completely responsive to my wishes...

This is in itself indicative of excellent hearing ability, now I'll let the Nipper chime back in for something more intelligent to say.

On a 2000 Legacy, I've done front brake pads but now will be changing rotors. Seems straightforward... remove wheel, caliper, tap rotor with heel of shoe until loose and reverse order greasing caliper slides and placing new pads on way out. Correct? Now the new territory for me is the rear discs. How or does the emergency brake come into play in changing pads... it is on the rear, isn't it? I like to be certain when doing brakes as if my life depended on it... oh yeah it does. Genuine Subaru parts best bet?

My 2000 Legacy experienced the Gen II external HG leak repaired under extended warranty.

If I remember correctly, there was a recall for an issue on my 2000 which was only applicable to rust belt states. Seems odd since who is to say that you don't live in Arizona but travel extensively in the rust belt area. There is an argument should they try that sidestep on you. Good luck.

When you run the AC or defroster, do you see a puddle under car where the condensate is being discharged? If not, check to make sure the line is open.

I don't have an answer for you but there are some great diagnosticians on this site. Hang tight. As far as the shop is concerned, yikes $600 sounds like they "took" you seriously

It is the triangular gusset that the side view mirrors are attached to. Subies have a frameless window door. Every time you close the door by pushing against the window or flex the window as when exiting the car in a tight driving spot and pressing against the window, it flexes that trangular area by the mirror. SOA replaced my gussets under an extended warranty but the tech also showed me that with the window down, try gently compressing (pinching together) the top of the triangle and thereby restore the original "seal" from wind noise. I'm not sure how well that technique works as I have been very careful about how I handle the glass since the gussets were replaced.

Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying.

This particular squeal seems more like the "tweeter" wear indicator on your brake pads and maybe not the issue of the original poster.

Sorry I can't contribute but just wanted to compliment those who have. This post is like the Masters Tournament of Subie Diagnosis. Play on.