brus brother

The salesmen I've asked seemed unimpressed with sales figures... I personally would have preferred had they expanded on the Outback 05 styling and functionality (kinda like a mini Lexus) and look forward to the B9 style sensibility driving away. (Admittedly, the grillwork seems balanced on smaller models likely the WRX). If only the world was completely responsive to my wishes...

This is in itself indicative of excellent hearing ability, now I'll let the Nipper chime back in for something more intelligent to say.

On a 2000 Legacy, I've done front brake pads but now will be changing rotors. Seems straightforward... remove wheel, caliper, tap rotor with heel of shoe until loose and reverse order greasing caliper slides and placing new pads on way out. Correct? Now the new territory for me is the rear discs. How or does the emergency brake come into play in changing pads... it is on the rear, isn't it? I like to be certain when doing brakes as if my life depended on it... oh yeah it does. Genuine Subaru parts best bet?

My 2000 Legacy experienced the Gen II external HG leak repaired under extended warranty.

If I remember correctly, there was a recall for an issue on my 2000 which was only applicable to rust belt states. Seems odd since who is to say that you don't live in Arizona but travel extensively in the rust belt area. There is an argument should they try that sidestep on you. Good luck.

When you run the AC or defroster, do you see a puddle under car where the condensate is being discharged? If not, check to make sure the line is open.

I don't have an answer for you but there are some great diagnosticians on this site. Hang tight. As far as the shop is concerned, yikes $600 sounds like they "took" you seriously

It is the triangular gusset that the side view mirrors are attached to. Subies have a frameless window door. Every time you close the door by pushing against the window or flex the window as when exiting the car in a tight driving spot and pressing against the window, it flexes that trangular area by the mirror. SOA replaced my gussets under an extended warranty but the tech also showed me that with the window down, try gently compressing (pinching together) the top of the triangle and thereby restore the original "seal" from wind noise. I'm not sure how well that technique works as I have been very careful about how I handle the glass since the gussets were replaced.

Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying.

This particular squeal seems more like the "tweeter" wear indicator on your brake pads and maybe not the issue of the original poster.

Sorry I can't contribute but just wanted to compliment those who have. This post is like the Masters Tournament of Subie Diagnosis. Play on.

Use a small screwdriver to gently pry off the speaker grill and you should then see the actual speaker being held on by the same nuts that hold the mirror to the outside.

If there is a triangular shaped piece at the inside of the door from the mirror, gently pry it loose and you'll find a few nuts behind that should tighten it up. The triangular piece has three small plastic wings that can be broken if you just tear into it.

Is there a Subaru part # for the TB coating as you describe? Thanks for your follow up which will benefit the SEARCH function on the site.

Yup. I was in Autozone today and they have an assortment pack of O rings right where the r134 cans are on the shelf.

The grommets were done on my 2000 under warranty at the time and they replaced the valve cover gaskets I guess because SOA allowed this as a billing procedure. You may get away with reusing the old valve cover gaskets if they aren't damaged in removing the valve covers. You have to replace the grommets from the inside of the valve cover. Get a price breakdown from Discount Parts (remember when you call Liberty Subaru, ask for Parts and when Parts answers, ask, is this Discount Parts, then ask again if the price they quote is the Discount Parts price). You basically get the same price a local mechanic/shop would get. You don't have to replace valve cover gaskets to replace spark plugs but you need to remove the valve covers to access the grommets. It seems like you may have limited grease experience so I don't want to encourage a sink or swim attitude. If you aren't comfortable removing the valve covers then let someone else do the grommet work. Once in there, after they do the grommets, they can install the new components of plugs and wires instead of putting the old ones back on as they put things back together. The work isn't that difficult and might be a good father/son experience... every son needs to learn how to curse sometime! As far as Subaru repair info, use the SEARCH function on this site. Other basic auto repair stuff is available all over the net. The members here are very helpful so don't get hurt and ask questions if you get stuck.

Liberty Subaru in your NJ has an online parts department. Call them up and ask for Discount Parts and buy genuine Subaru parts for cheap. The oil on the plug wires is a result of leaking grommets where the plugs go through the valve cover. Might as well replace them and the valve cover gaskets at the same time. Check with your dealer and see if this is considered part of the 5 year 60K drive train warranty. If it is, buy the wires and let the tech replace them when he does the grommets/gaskets:banana:. Yes you need to remove a few items to get to the plugs (washer unit may be able to be pushed aside but then again, if you change the plugs, you'll want clear and easy access so as to NOT cross thread those babies. You'll need a deep socket and extension to reach down in there and oh by the way grab the wires close to the plug. I know you're replacing them but it's good practice to see how to do it right.

The manufacturer's rep also stated that the ambient temperature would also affect the gauge reading which would be lower on a 65 degree day like today than on a 90 degree scorcher. Thanks all for the input and thorough discussion. I hope it helps someone else when they go searching here.

Followed directions. Run AC on high. Attach hose/gauge with quick connect to L side. Read pressure (in low range). Disconnect from L port and attach can. Reattach quick connect and kept filling and checking and as per instructions kept can upright. Gauge read just over 25 (just into the OK zone)and when I disconnected coupling and detached can, a small amount of gas and oil remained and was discharged from the can. There was no instruction on purging the line though in hindsight I could have pulled the trigger and release the valve in the quick disconnect coupling thereby assuring gas in the line... next time. For now, it seems to be running cooler but then again Nipster, I'm just across the Sound here in CT. and it's pretty darn cool today. Just spoke with Interdynamics/manufacturer and was told there is no way/need to purge their 11 inches of hose... Space Shuttle Challenger (o-rings??) Go with throttle up...

It wasn't the preattached hose but rather hose/gauge and separate bottles. So, does the system first suck air out of the hose before it starts pulling refrigerant from can? This wouldn't seem ideal. How would you purge air from the hose?

OK, used the Walmart gauge/hose and screw on can (pretty straightforward) and it was low. Added almost 1 can to get it just into the low end of the full range and then it didn't want to take the remainder of the can. Do these cans normally empty completely or is there an equilibrium point where the pressure in the system is the same as the pressure in the can and it stops taking more oil/gas? It definitely seems to be cooling better and I managed not to sacrifice any animals in the process.

Didn't you mean getting to "Gnu" condition.

NHTSA.gov lists all recalls as well as TSBs by make/model/year.

Then if a leak is possible, would the refrigerant with leak additive be the ticket? BTW, I checked and the low and high connections are marked with... get this... L and H.

Did the Walmart charge help or is tepid the norm for those years? As for Wayne's caveats, I do prefer to avoid shrapnel injuries where possible so if someone can point me to the low pressure side, it would be appreciated. Also, is there a need to remove/evacuate the old oil or is this simply a process of topping off what refrigerant/oil has been dissipated or used up? It strikes me as odd that I never have to recharge my refrigerator...