brus brother

Good warning though. We don't want this fellow smooching with an airbag whilst trying to fix his horn.

The Nipster may be correct: Replacing Subarus aging Loyale, the subcompact Impreza came in 4-door sedan and station wagon form, with standard front drive or optional permanently engaged all-wheel drive. Sales began in spring of 1993. Both body styles came in L or step-up LS trim, and seated five. A driver-side airbag was standard; antilock braking standard on the LS. Another site mentions that dual airbags came on the scene in 1994.

I just replaced front rotors and brake pads using SOA genuine parts and following instructions from the board, thanks. :banana:The kit included grease with instructions of greasing between backplate of pad and rubberized shim. Also instructed to grease the surface of support that recieves clip as well as surface of clip which is to be attached to pad. The rear set includes similar parts but no grease or instructions as above. Should I get some brake anti-squeal grease from Autozone and apply same as above? Probably a dumb question but confidence lacking competence can be dangerous.

There is some elementary knowledge of electrical current involved here and if you don't already understand it, now is the time. I am no expert so it would be appreciated if another board member can correct me if I'm wrong so that we don't change bhelser into "sparky". The horn operates on the electric current supplied to it from your 12 volt battery through a few switches and relays. The electic current needs a complete circuit from the battery to the horn and back from the horn to the battery in order for the electric circuit to be complete and functional. For background purposes only and not as credit towards a doctorate degree in electrophysics, be advised that the current flows from the negative (ground)(-) to positive (+). http://www.mste.uiuc.edu/murphy/HoleFlow/default.html OK, enuf learnin', let's get fixin'. First you need to determine whether in fact your horns are operative or have been rusted solid. You can supply current directly to the horn using a simple jumper cable. There should be a wire running to the horn. Disconnect this wire. Check to make sure the terminal on the horn is clear of rust etc. and check the inside of the wire connection also. I am a little fuzzy here but I believe the ground (negative) at the horn is achieved by the bolt attaching the horn to the car which makes its way back to the battery via the grounded wire attached to the negative (black) terminal on the battery. To be certain, you could establish a ground from the negative (black) terminal on the battery to the body of the horn by using a wire with alligator clips from the battery(-) and running to some bare metal (scrape the paint off) of the horn. Now you can connect a long wire with an alligator clip from the terminal on the horn and touch the other end to the positive (red) terminal on the battery, the horn should work. If it doesn't or only makes a faint chirping sound, the horn is rusted or crudded up on the inside. Report back and we'll try and figure out how to get you good and horny.

How about heading RichieRich's advice and hotwire the horns directly from the battery and see if those tooters even work?

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Fuel+Pipe&model=Legacy If you check out the above link, I'll think you'll find that Nipper's caveats might be spot on. There are numerous web discounted Subaru parts dealers out there. The above link happens to be near me in CT. As for the $150 price given you, even retail doesn't come close to that for your model year so that dealer might have been sticking up the old gas pipe for you. Your's discounted could run you $89-$99 plus s/h. But beware that apparently there are two different models for 1996 based on month of production and Vin. Then again you might be able to hammer anything home to your satisfaction. These pipes rust out beacuse the "protective" shroud traps dirt and road salt = hole.

The salesmen I've asked seemed unimpressed with sales figures... I personally would have preferred had they expanded on the Outback 05 styling and functionality (kinda like a mini Lexus) and look forward to the B9 style sensibility driving away. (Admittedly, the grillwork seems balanced on smaller models likely the WRX). If only the world was completely responsive to my wishes...

This is in itself indicative of excellent hearing ability, now I'll let the Nipper chime back in for something more intelligent to say.

On a 2000 Legacy, I've done front brake pads but now will be changing rotors. Seems straightforward... remove wheel, caliper, tap rotor with heel of shoe until loose and reverse order greasing caliper slides and placing new pads on way out. Correct? Now the new territory for me is the rear discs. How or does the emergency brake come into play in changing pads... it is on the rear, isn't it? I like to be certain when doing brakes as if my life depended on it... oh yeah it does. Genuine Subaru parts best bet?

My 2000 Legacy experienced the Gen II external HG leak repaired under extended warranty.

If I remember correctly, there was a recall for an issue on my 2000 which was only applicable to rust belt states. Seems odd since who is to say that you don't live in Arizona but travel extensively in the rust belt area. There is an argument should they try that sidestep on you. Good luck.

When you run the AC or defroster, do you see a puddle under car where the condensate is being discharged? If not, check to make sure the line is open.

I don't have an answer for you but there are some great diagnosticians on this site. Hang tight. As far as the shop is concerned, yikes $600 sounds like they "took" you seriously

It is the triangular gusset that the side view mirrors are attached to. Subies have a frameless window door. Every time you close the door by pushing against the window or flex the window as when exiting the car in a tight driving spot and pressing against the window, it flexes that trangular area by the mirror. SOA replaced my gussets under an extended warranty but the tech also showed me that with the window down, try gently compressing (pinching together) the top of the triangle and thereby restore the original "seal" from wind noise. I'm not sure how well that technique works as I have been very careful about how I handle the glass since the gussets were replaced.

Don't stop now... some cars are meant for driving and some cars are meant for fixing. I'm going out for pizza, what do you want on yours? Nipper is buying.

This particular squeal seems more like the "tweeter" wear indicator on your brake pads and maybe not the issue of the original poster.

Sorry I can't contribute but just wanted to compliment those who have. This post is like the Masters Tournament of Subie Diagnosis. Play on.

Use a small screwdriver to gently pry off the speaker grill and you should then see the actual speaker being held on by the same nuts that hold the mirror to the outside.

If there is a triangular shaped piece at the inside of the door from the mirror, gently pry it loose and you'll find a few nuts behind that should tighten it up. The triangular piece has three small plastic wings that can be broken if you just tear into it.

Is there a Subaru part # for the TB coating as you describe? Thanks for your follow up which will benefit the SEARCH function on the site.

Yup. I was in Autozone today and they have an assortment pack of O rings right where the r134 cans are on the shelf.

The grommets were done on my 2000 under warranty at the time and they replaced the valve cover gaskets I guess because SOA allowed this as a billing procedure. You may get away with reusing the old valve cover gaskets if they aren't damaged in removing the valve covers. You have to replace the grommets from the inside of the valve cover. Get a price breakdown from Discount Parts (remember when you call Liberty Subaru, ask for Parts and when Parts answers, ask, is this Discount Parts, then ask again if the price they quote is the Discount Parts price). You basically get the same price a local mechanic/shop would get. You don't have to replace valve cover gaskets to replace spark plugs but you need to remove the valve covers to access the grommets. It seems like you may have limited grease experience so I don't want to encourage a sink or swim attitude. If you aren't comfortable removing the valve covers then let someone else do the grommet work. Once in there, after they do the grommets, they can install the new components of plugs and wires instead of putting the old ones back on as they put things back together. The work isn't that difficult and might be a good father/son experience... every son needs to learn how to curse sometime! As far as Subaru repair info, use the SEARCH function on this site. Other basic auto repair stuff is available all over the net. The members here are very helpful so don't get hurt and ask questions if you get stuck.

Liberty Subaru in your NJ has an online parts department. Call them up and ask for Discount Parts and buy genuine Subaru parts for cheap. The oil on the plug wires is a result of leaking grommets where the plugs go through the valve cover. Might as well replace them and the valve cover gaskets at the same time. Check with your dealer and see if this is considered part of the 5 year 60K drive train warranty. If it is, buy the wires and let the tech replace them when he does the grommets/gaskets:banana:. Yes you need to remove a few items to get to the plugs (washer unit may be able to be pushed aside but then again, if you change the plugs, you'll want clear and easy access so as to NOT cross thread those babies. You'll need a deep socket and extension to reach down in there and oh by the way grab the wires close to the plug. I know you're replacing them but it's good practice to see how to do it right.

The manufacturer's rep also stated that the ambient temperature would also affect the gauge reading which would be lower on a 65 degree day like today than on a 90 degree scorcher. Thanks all for the input and thorough discussion. I hope it helps someone else when they go searching here.

Followed directions. Run AC on high. Attach hose/gauge with quick connect to L side. Read pressure (in low range). Disconnect from L port and attach can. Reattach quick connect and kept filling and checking and as per instructions kept can upright. Gauge read just over 25 (just into the OK zone)and when I disconnected coupling and detached can, a small amount of gas and oil remained and was discharged from the can. There was no instruction on purging the line though in hindsight I could have pulled the trigger and release the valve in the quick disconnect coupling thereby assuring gas in the line... next time. For now, it seems to be running cooler but then again Nipster, I'm just across the Sound here in CT. and it's pretty darn cool today. Just spoke with Interdynamics/manufacturer and was told there is no way/need to purge their 11 inches of hose... Space Shuttle Challenger (o-rings??) Go with throttle up...