brus brother

Use a small screwdriver to gently pry off the speaker grill and you should then see the actual speaker being held on by the same nuts that hold the mirror to the outside.

If there is a triangular shaped piece at the inside of the door from the mirror, gently pry it loose and you'll find a few nuts behind that should tighten it up. The triangular piece has three small plastic wings that can be broken if you just tear into it.

Is there a Subaru part # for the TB coating as you describe? Thanks for your follow up which will benefit the SEARCH function on the site.

Yup. I was in Autozone today and they have an assortment pack of O rings right where the r134 cans are on the shelf.

The grommets were done on my 2000 under warranty at the time and they replaced the valve cover gaskets I guess because SOA allowed this as a billing procedure. You may get away with reusing the old valve cover gaskets if they aren't damaged in removing the valve covers. You have to replace the grommets from the inside of the valve cover. Get a price breakdown from Discount Parts (remember when you call Liberty Subaru, ask for Parts and when Parts answers, ask, is this Discount Parts, then ask again if the price they quote is the Discount Parts price). You basically get the same price a local mechanic/shop would get. You don't have to replace valve cover gaskets to replace spark plugs but you need to remove the valve covers to access the grommets. It seems like you may have limited grease experience so I don't want to encourage a sink or swim attitude. If you aren't comfortable removing the valve covers then let someone else do the grommet work. Once in there, after they do the grommets, they can install the new components of plugs and wires instead of putting the old ones back on as they put things back together. The work isn't that difficult and might be a good father/son experience... every son needs to learn how to curse sometime! As far as Subaru repair info, use the SEARCH function on this site. Other basic auto repair stuff is available all over the net. The members here are very helpful so don't get hurt and ask questions if you get stuck.

Liberty Subaru in your NJ has an online parts department. Call them up and ask for Discount Parts and buy genuine Subaru parts for cheap. The oil on the plug wires is a result of leaking grommets where the plugs go through the valve cover. Might as well replace them and the valve cover gaskets at the same time. Check with your dealer and see if this is considered part of the 5 year 60K drive train warranty. If it is, buy the wires and let the tech replace them when he does the grommets/gaskets:banana:. Yes you need to remove a few items to get to the plugs (washer unit may be able to be pushed aside but then again, if you change the plugs, you'll want clear and easy access so as to NOT cross thread those babies. You'll need a deep socket and extension to reach down in there and oh by the way grab the wires close to the plug. I know you're replacing them but it's good practice to see how to do it right.

The manufacturer's rep also stated that the ambient temperature would also affect the gauge reading which would be lower on a 65 degree day like today than on a 90 degree scorcher. Thanks all for the input and thorough discussion. I hope it helps someone else when they go searching here.

Followed directions. Run AC on high. Attach hose/gauge with quick connect to L side. Read pressure (in low range). Disconnect from L port and attach can. Reattach quick connect and kept filling and checking and as per instructions kept can upright. Gauge read just over 25 (just into the OK zone)and when I disconnected coupling and detached can, a small amount of gas and oil remained and was discharged from the can. There was no instruction on purging the line though in hindsight I could have pulled the trigger and release the valve in the quick disconnect coupling thereby assuring gas in the line... next time. For now, it seems to be running cooler but then again Nipster, I'm just across the Sound here in CT. and it's pretty darn cool today. Just spoke with Interdynamics/manufacturer and was told there is no way/need to purge their 11 inches of hose... Space Shuttle Challenger (o-rings??) Go with throttle up...

It wasn't the preattached hose but rather hose/gauge and separate bottles. So, does the system first suck air out of the hose before it starts pulling refrigerant from can? This wouldn't seem ideal. How would you purge air from the hose?

OK, used the Walmart gauge/hose and screw on can (pretty straightforward) and it was low. Added almost 1 can to get it just into the low end of the full range and then it didn't want to take the remainder of the can. Do these cans normally empty completely or is there an equilibrium point where the pressure in the system is the same as the pressure in the can and it stops taking more oil/gas? It definitely seems to be cooling better and I managed not to sacrifice any animals in the process.

Didn't you mean getting to "Gnu" condition.

NHTSA.gov lists all recalls as well as TSBs by make/model/year.

Then if a leak is possible, would the refrigerant with leak additive be the ticket? BTW, I checked and the low and high connections are marked with... get this... L and H.

Did the Walmart charge help or is tepid the norm for those years? As for Wayne's caveats, I do prefer to avoid shrapnel injuries where possible so if someone can point me to the low pressure side, it would be appreciated. Also, is there a need to remove/evacuate the old oil or is this simply a process of topping off what refrigerant/oil has been dissipated or used up? It strikes me as odd that I never have to recharge my refrigerator...

OK, I generally agree with Cookie so, despite my medical training, I would reluctantly try the PCV valve to see if it helps Nipper's paralyzed muscle. Keep smiling, Nipper, laughing and crying is the same release. We're all rooting for ya'.

Is there any rule of thumb as to how long the original factory AC charge is good for. My 2000 seems tepid under extreme heat and I was wondering if it is just "used up" and in need of recharge. Is there a way of measuring the refrigerant oil to determine its' "coldability"? Are the recharge meters/freon cans from Wal-mart as good as any other method?

This I suppose would be considered the "engineering" approach.

I would suggest you take the Nipster's advice to heart. DO NOT stick your head under the dashboard looking for anything while you are driving! I would also suggest that Nipper's estimate of a few dozen may be conservative.

Ferners got you, eh Nipster?

Wrap the car in duct tape, saran wrap or New Orleans blue tarp. Seriously though, you need to start doing your own investigation. Is there water accumulated in the spare tire well? Smells can come from little bits of food left behind over many years. For that matter, mildew smells can come from the evaporators from the cooling system or clogged drains from around the cowling at the windshield dumping water onto the front rugs. Blocked sunroof drains are mentioned here on the site. Start with the simple stuff (common things happen commonly). My cousin was ready to sell his Outback because of all the rattles it had developed... I found out he was storing a boat anchor and tow chain in the rear compartment... and a garden rake to boot... doh!. Start sniffing around the car and let us know where it is most obvious. Yeah, there are some usual culprits but we need more input from you. Take the floor mats out and spray them top and bottom with Lysol and the let the sun dry them out. Use the SEARCH function and you'll find that the taillights can be removed and resealed with silicone if they are leaking. Best to have a good diagnosis before you start fixin' evrythin' in sight.

Drive train is warranty item. Go get 'em.

I like Nipper's reasoning. Ask to drive another 05 that YOU choose at random from the lot (I'm paranoid). Our 05 doesn't make any noise that would cause me alarm.

Sorry, the front seals are not involved with your problem but perhaps they will replace the air freshener hanging from the mirror. Seriously though, you will be good to go after the repairs.

Is the car misbehaving other than smoking? What does the smoke smell like? Different auto fluids have particular smells. As I said before, splattering grease from torn cv joint or oil dripping from valve cover, oil dipstick gasket, leaking oil pump seeping oil from timing belt cover area will blow back onto exhaust and smoke like a James Bond stunt car. You need to keep looking for the source of the "brown" fluid you saw on the ground instead of worrying about all the possible "what ifs". On this site, it seems anytime the gas gauge approaches E or the radio has more static, there is a knee jerk reaction to assume that the HGs are failing. Start at the top and front of the engine and work back and down. If it is a substantial leak, you should find it pretty quickly. If it is still elusive and your engine is all grimy anyway, clean your engine and get a fresh look at what's going on.

Torn cv boot, grease splattering on hot exhaust?? Leaking oil on exhaust?? etc etc give us a hint... was there overheating related to low coolant or just incidental finding when you saw smoke??