brus brother

Ditto 2000 Legacy GT

Would this have anything to do with the oft mentioned "doh" switch on top of the steering column? Common things happen commonly.

Brake rotor "warped". Some say the warpage is actually just brake pad material deposited on the rotor but regardless the end result is high spots on the rotor that become more noticeable when braking at highway speeds where the rotor is cooled down. Have the rotors ever been resurfaced with a brake pad replacement? I've been advised against numerous resurfacings as the rotors become thinner and more subject to thermal stresses that more easily cook the pad material onto the rotor. Sometimes it's better to just replace rotors if you are doing the job yourself than driving the rotors around town to be resurfaced. There are some scholarly posts on the subject if you use the search function.

For all you out of town complainers, just think about how ruff and tuff we locals must be to deal with these sort of mishaps on a daily basis... ah, just to live here in Corrupticut.

Hooray, the Moose (Paul) to the rescue... and we thought you were only an Old Generation prowler. Good to see you on the road and willing to lend a hand.

This just happened to my left turn signal on my 00 Legacy GT last week for the first time. At first, I thought there was a bulb out and that's why the fast signal but next time it worked properly??:-\

Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 126800 Date of Bulletin: JUN 02, 2000 NHTSA Item Number: 613993 Component: OTHER Summary: THIS BULLETIN WILL HELP IDENTIFY THE SOURCE OF WATNER ENTERING VEHICLES THROUGH THE FRONT MAP LIGHT AREA OF THE INTERIOR PANEL. *TT http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/results.cfm?start=16&SearchType=DrillDown&type=VEH ICLE&year=2000&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&vehtype=UN K&typenum=1&component_id=0&summary=true This is for MY2000 but go to a dealer and ask to see the TSB. It might save you some time reinventing the wheel.

No Joke. Thankful for warranties. Take that doggie in and let SOA figger' it out.

This happened to my 05 OB non turbo just as the auto trany died. New one installed under warranty.

Oil on the boots is another issue. There are grommets where the plugs go thru the valve cover . They need to be replaced occasionally, mine were done on my 2000 Legacy GT around 40,000 under warranty. It's a known issue. I think you pull the valve covers and replace the valve cover gasket at the same time as these grommets. Put this on the bottom of the honey-do list until you sort out the power issue.

If you are suffering from "mafundsarelow" try multiple drains and fills of AT fluid (Dextron I think? check manual). Cheap enough at WalMart by the gallon. Even if it's not a complete drain and refill the first time through, after you've drained, filled, spun around the block a few times and repeat drain, refill, spin around the block, repeat, you get a pretty good result under the circumstances. It's mentioned a few times on the board. Just don't overfill. If you are sure that your initial level is good, drain say 5 quarts and add 5 quarts... simple math at the college level. Good luck.

First of all, check to make sure of the source of the rattle. I once solved my cousin's similar complaint by removing a ton of crap from his spare tire well (towing hitch, loose screwdrivers etc). Now, excercising great care for life and limb, remove the interior cover from the rear hatch and have someone ride in the rear while you recreate the noise driving over bumps. Unless the door bumpers are gone and the door itself is rattling, the locking and opening linkage may be the culprit. Harmonic rattle at idle sounds to me like it may be from loose heat shields on exhaust.

OK I'll practice my typing tonite. Put key in ignition and turn on but DO NOT start car. Now buckle and unbuckle the drivers seat belt 15-20 times then leave belt buckled and turn key to off position and remove key. Now, each time you go to start the car the seat belt chime chimes 5 times and then stops whether or not the driver or passenger belts are buckled. Remember to Buckle Up though. I'd hate to see your head as a hood ornament on your car.

Too many problems for a new car. How many miles? Think Lemon Law if this continues. The details are posted conspicuously at the counter in the Service Desk area in most dealerships. You qualify among other things if they don't fix a problem after a certain number of attempts, and anyway, ask to meet with a regional rep. Discuss that your confidence in their product is seriously undermined. If they don't want to give you a replacement vehicle, casually suggest they give you a complimentary 6 year /100K warranty. That's what I got after all the hassle with my 2000 (long story). A friend received the same after his 05 Turbo kept stranding him with one problem after another. You'll have peace of mind and will also be reimbursed for the inconvenience of being an unpaid member of their Quality Control Department.

This is a known issue. It is related to the rear taillight assembly. Use the search function and you should be able to locate it. I am up to my knees in alligators right now but will try and help in the search if no one else chimes in. Just chased the alligators out and found the following link. The SEARCH function is your friend on this site. Check this link from December. You are not alone. The information seems to point to inadequate sealant and gives suggestions as to how to remove the unit and reseal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48874&highlight=leaking+rear+gate There may also be mention at the NHTSA.org site under TSBs for Subarus of that or related years.

Keep us posted Bubba. Fingers crossed.

Didn't intend to be "e-thuggin" (having the nerve to say something hiding behind a screen). The premise of the water + hot rotor = warp has always seemed dubious to me. Considering this possibility in metalurgy, it would seem a too serious pitfall for any and all rotors if this were the case. Understood, you are not submerging or quenching the rotor with puddles as compared to crossing a stream but still you would expect a similar and cumulative effect might take place. I take interest in your thread because currently I too am suffering from warped rotors and certainly am open to all discussion.

"and be careful driving through water with them hot." You're kidding me right? I can just see me serpentining down the road avoiding puddles...

Hey Doc, Follow Cookie's prescription. Rust belt or not, get back under there with a hammer and tap away looking for a loose heat shield. It's tough to diagnose a noise over the internet but heat shield noise is a common occurence.

Shameless BUMP. Any eyedeers??

I have posted before about a engine pinging problem with my 2000 Legacy GT Auto using 87 octane as suggested in owner's manual. The pinging occurs when ambient temperatures get over 60 degrees F. The car seems to run fine at cooler temperatures. The problem has existed from day one. I have tried SeaFoam top engine cleaner numerous times, throttle body cleaner, BK in the gas tank, new air and gas filter, air freshener hanging from the mirror and voodoo. Reading a recent post and link here on MAP sensors I am wondering if a faulty or out of spec MAP sensor could be the culprit. Is there a way of testing this sensor and are the symptoms consistent with a faulty sensor?

Firefox lacks certain plugins, in this case download Apple's Quick Time.

A man and a plan... congratulations on going to the source, the FSM. Keep in touch on this site. Someone's dilemma (and solution) today might be yours tomorrow.

Check your fuses. Perhaps you toasted one with your handiwork. Disconnect power to your new radio and check for blown fuses. Replace, test and then go back and hook up your radio. You might want to disconnect the battery before reinstalling the radio.

"If the socket has a sticker on the side of it make sure you remove it. On the 2.5 engine, don't be surprised if you pull out the socket extension and the socket is still in the head." Oh yeah, almost forgot, I used a little duct tape, securing the extension to the socket, to prevent the above from happening... the second time!