brus brother

Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 126800 Date of Bulletin: JUN 02, 2000 NHTSA Item Number: 613993 Component: OTHER Summary: THIS BULLETIN WILL HELP IDENTIFY THE SOURCE OF WATNER ENTERING VEHICLES THROUGH THE FRONT MAP LIGHT AREA OF THE INTERIOR PANEL. *TT http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/results.cfm?start=16&SearchType=DrillDown&type=VEHICLE&year=2000&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&vehtype=UNK&typenum=1&component_id=0&summary=true This is for MY2000 but go to a dealer and ask to see the TSB. It might save you some time reinventing the wheel.

Do you have a written estimate? Does the final bill specify by part number or otherwise which parts were ordered/installed i.e. 94 vs 95? Ask for a copy of the invoice for the parts installed. I think you were entitled to the old parts if you asked at the time. You should quietly get this on the record in the event that you need to go to small claims couirt. Around here (CT) I think the limit is $2K, no lawyer needed. Another consideration is that the mechanic need not know what kind of towing you have or don't have. The fact that you didn't "pay" for the tow that night is irrelevant since in fact you do pay for the service as a part of your insurance with AAA. It still may be that the occurence was only related to his work by time and not cause, but I too would be suspect. Good luck. Be calm but if you are not satisfied or are uncomfortable with his response, have the car removed before he does any further work and inspected by another mechanic who might have to testify on your behalf.

third row = NO leg room

When SOA tells me something is "normal", I ask them to take me for a ride in one of their other "normal" cars! See my post above. SOA initially told me it was normal as well. If it was under the 60K drivetrain warranty and you have it on the service record, you stand a chance of at least sharing expense of replacement with SOA but likely you'll need to go to the mat with them for full reimbursement. It may help to have a good relationship with local dealer.

Pinion gear was suspected in my case, 2000 Legacy GT automatic, and fortunately at 72K while still under 100K warranty the tranny started making another clicking noise seemingly unrelated but precipitating the replacement of the tranny.

It's my wife's car and NO it was not diven anywhere near hard by her or me as an occasional driver. I have to admit, we baby our Subarus so I'm a little disappointed. BTW, my 2000 Legacy GT auto is on it's 3rd tranny at 76,000 miles. The first one suffered from "delayed engagement" at about 37K and that one was replaced at 72K because of a clicking noise which developed shortly after pinion gear whining started. Fortunately, both replacements were warranty covered but I hate to admit, it seems like either a weak spot for Subaru or I may be suffering fom "bad Carma".

... or you drowned the beep!

UPDATE: I just got a replacement brandy new Auto transmission on my 05 as mine died at 13,000 miles. Now try and do me one better on that!

Just when you thought there were no virgins left in the world...

I know you said beeping but is it by any chance the "door open" indicator signal? Perhaps there is a loose connection at one of the plungers.

I am of the same vintage (54) as Tunered and agree with the sagacity of his age. You did the right thing. They will probably call you back and try and sweeten up the deal but hold firm if'n you calculated the risk into your offering price.

I recently had the instrument cluster on my 00 replaced because the clock was inaccurate! Yep, that was a fine warranty I had! Anyway, long story short, it took about two weeks because they sent the new unit to somewhere in Ca. to have the original mileage transferred to the new odometer. So, yes it can be done reputably and that is the operative word! Jeesh, who ever heard of a disreputable car dealer? Hmmm...

Last week my wife's 05 OB Automatic ground to a halt with CEL and cruise control a flashin'. Short story... tranny toast. New one coming. We've got an 06 loaner and a courteous dealer..

The problem is that where there is one rust through, others are sure to follow. In sanding and cleaning the metal around the hole, others will arise. I used an epoxy from Autozone and brake cleaner spray after sanding the area. I tried the epoxy becuse the screws holding the neck on seem immovable. I wasn't very successful as other areas were paper thin and seeped as well. Best to replace if you're keeping the car.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm Try the above link and search for details on your model. Is there anything in your owner's manual that cover the various options with the remote i.e. turn off the horn beep etc.?

Dealership or not, OEM parts or not??

Looking for a good mechanic in the Charlotte N.C. area. Helpful if also good with Volvo brakes etc..

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476 I think this is at least part of what you are looking for. Seek and ye shall find... use the SEARCH function!

I have a 2000 Legacy an seem to remember a recall on the PS system. Sorry but I can't remember which aspect. Check SOA or NHTSA here in USA.

I agre on the sensitivity of the later model remotes. My 2000 is fine but the 05 seems to have a configuration that seems to go off by just looking at it hard.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm If this link doesn't help with the remote chirping, I think I found the solution in the owner's manual. The seatbelt solution is to turn the key to the on position without starting the engine then quickly buckle and unbuckle the driver's seatbelt about 10 or 15 times within a minute and finally unbuckle. Turn key off and remove. Can't remember if I got out of the car and off of the seat sensor but give it a shot if it doesn't work the first time. Reinsert key and you should now hear only 5 or 6 beeps each time and then it stops after this initial warning. I haven't seen anything yet to indicate that this in any way interferes with any other safety mechanism on the car.

I didn't think the issue was whether to drive with or without a seatbelt. Personally, I'm not much for kissing a windshield. However, as I've said when the nagging beeping begins, "I heard you twice the first time". The original post "Up here in alaska we occasionally start up and let warm up, so as soon as I get in I get the damn beeper" caught my attention and I missed the part where he wanted to "drive to the corner store" unbelted, creating th potential to one day find himself lap dancing with a telephone pole. Correct me if I am wrong but I was lead to believe that the safety system remains intact but the warning ends after the 5 or 6 beeps once the reprogram described above is effected.

The best part of the override is that if your passenger or even a heavy package was sitting in the passenger seat without the seatbelt buckled, you'd get the beeping even if the driver was buckled in. This way no more nagging.

Yep. Turn key to on position without starting car and then buckle and unbuckle the driver side seatbelt about 15 times quickly within a minute or less. Just do it as quickly as possible. Now turn the key to the off position and remove key. Next time and each time thereafter, the chime should sound 5 times and then stop. It worked first time for me but others had touble initially. If you have problems, use the search function on this site on the topic.

Nip and Tune are on the mark. The defroster running in the rain will deposit water on the passenger floor, as would the AC, if the drain is clogged. But first, look carefully at the corner of the cowling in front of the windshield. There is a small drain hole in the recess that gets clogged. Pour some water in and see if it drains out under the car. If not, it's likely the defroster/AC drain that is plugged.