brus brother

2005 OB Auto tranny died today with 16,000 miles. Wife's ride just suddenly revved up and wouldn't engage 2-3rd gear. Flatbed to dealer and now await a replacement (likely remanufacture). Anyone else have a "death" in their family? Is there a trend?? (BTW I am on my THIRD tranny, all warranty but separate issues, with my 2000 Legacy GT Auto 80,000 miles)

I used Whaley Glass in New (or West) Haven. Covered under insurance, they originally did the work at Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford. When after 2 years it developed a wind noise like playing a reed instrument, I took it up to the glass shop where they resealed and all is well. They said they usually want to let the car sit for 5 or so hours after replacement to give the sealant time to mature as the air bags rely on deploying in a manner that is defelected off the glass?? and therefore need the assurance that the glass will stay in place. Don't flame me if incorrect, it's just what I was told.

Mine jumped the track and I was able to "snap" it back into the track. What happened to yours that you need to replace it?

I wonder if this would be covered under the "lifetime" warranty that applies to seatbelts and their mechanisms??

What I've done in the past when I wanted to figure out how these beasts are put together is go to your local dealership parts department and ask them to copy their schematic page for the part your interested in. Generally their is an exploded view of the area showing all the various parts and their locations. Good luck finding the noise (perhaps it has a part number and is standard on your model).

I replaced one on a 91 Legacy wagon. The part was about $15 from 1stSubaru parts.com. though I got a used one from a local board member. Pretty simple repair. Pop off the botom of the inside panel (I might have taken it off entirely), disconnect arm attached to handle. Remove two rusted bolts barely holding the handle and replace new handle and follow above in reverse order.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html This link should help you. I have read here before where the button is difficult to find at times but it's there.

My 2000 dash was apart recently to work on the instrument cluster and I rode with the tech with the dash open and couldn't recreate the "squeaking" that had developed over time. It certainly sounded like the wirewrap was the culprit but couldn't recereate even while driving and wiggling everything in sight. Now that the dash is closed again, the sound is back. The only other thought I have is that it may be the connection where the extensions for the air ductwork that lead to the louvered vents on the dash meet the main ducts. When the dash was apart, I could see there is one on either side of center behind the radio console and with the dash apart, they were not making contact with each other. When the dash is assembled, they simply wedge together like a collar fit. I haven't investigated this yet as I am trying to determine which yoga position will allow my 6'4" frame to get under far enough to see.

Kaptain, I think the discussion was whether or not the reverse or backup lights should/must/were/could be separate from the other light cluster on the rear. I understand the confusion though for Subaruites who likely never think of going backward, just pushing onward, upward and forward! My wife has the 05 with this newer design (losing that earlier red reflector bandaid across the back) and I prefer the entire styling of the newest OB generation (except the hoodscoop on turbos), almost Lexusian but not as bulky (or pricey).

The leaking hose from the AC will also be the culprit if the same happens when the defroster is running. Run either and look for a puddle under your car in the area below the glovebox. If that's not happening then the hose is disconnected and the puddle is inside your car. The other possibility is the drain holes located at the outside corner just under the hood. Open the hood and look at the small wells at the corners just below the windshield. They get plugged with leaves and crud. If there is debris there, clean it away and pour a small amount of water into the well. It should drain out below the car. I'm not sure if this line Tees up with the line from the A/C-defroster line. After you found the leak, dry out the car, remove the floor mats and spray everything with Lysol before the mold takes over.

Was the same condition present before you changed the struts??

If you still want to use the tape deck, open it up and check inasmuch as most of them have a single rubber band belt that make them run. It will be broken and dried out. Check around for a replacement, replace and voila, outdated technology brought back to life... long live the 8 track!

OK, back to my first suggestion. Can you separate the power from the CD and the radio? It seems that would eliminate a variable. I don't have this type setup (underseat) but apparently under normal conditions, you turn on the radio and it also powers up the cd player. I don't know where the power goes first though. Unlikely they both died at the same time. It appears that the radio/cd is losing power completely when you turn the car off, akin to disconnecting the battery. Has anything been done recently to the electrical system of the car? Just musing but perhaps a transistor head on the board can say if there is a component of the audio system that retains a small current to maintain the presets and the instant on function of the radio/cd.

Is there a way of separating power from the cd and the radio? Can you power the radio independent of the cd unit?

From 10-27-05 news report. "Later Thursday, Israel fired missiles at the Jebaliya refugee camp near Gaza City as people were returning home from evening prayers. Witnesses said the target was a white Subaru car."

Well, even if this isn't a DIY project, Cougar has saved the mechanic a lot of work with his write-up. How do you test these relays and combination switch?

What? You haven't yet accidentally hit the parking light switch on top of the steering column and wondered why your lights stay on and kill your battery? Welcome aboard.

Happened to be at a Subie dealership the other day and chatted a fellow who was getting a loaner as his 05 OB had blown a PS pump. Sh** happens to at least one other and only time will tell how many others. P.S. my wife drives a 05 OB as well and I beginning to feel left out!

As per 1 Lucky Texan, "But even so amid the tornadoed Atlantic of my being, do I myself still forever centrally disport in mute calm; and while ponderous planets of unwaning woe revolve round me, deep down and deep inland there I still bathe me in eternal mildness of joy." Apparently consternation turns to lucidation!

I would have to agree that it is time for a meeting with the regional representative. These guys are ususally some savvy mechanics and not just assemblers (notice the first three letters of the previous word). I doubt that the techs don't believe you... hence the first few attempts at repair. Likely that they aren't capable of figuring it out and hence are now blowing you off. Did you get a statement from the indy shop? Threaten Lemon Law if necessary. I forget the requirements but repeated visits for unsolved issues are covered if within a certain period of time. I know you want to keep the car but they don't and they certainly don't want your car back. Even if they cave and finally fix the car, ask for something in addition... be firm... perhaps some tree shaped air fresheners??

Well, I'm not as inclined to just say yes to their "kind" offers. I have a 2000 Legacy GT with 75,000 miles without any slap. If you absolutely love the car and feel the deal was a good price then I would negotiate with the new and improved pistons x 4. This will give you the peace of mind that the future will not bite you on the other cheek. They know the car was prepared for you so as to not slap when you tested it and likely hoped you were deaf or dumb or both. They don't want the car back so, ask for a wee bit more good will at this point. What can they say... no? Not likely, call their bluff. PS Short block is about $2000 US plus install

I just went through this on my 2000 Legacy GT wagon. I too thought it was the seatbelt buckle but the noise was present even when the belt was buckled in. I could at times bang on the door panel with the door open and get a similar sound. Finally, after no less than three attempts at finding the noise by the dealer, the tech took the door panel off and tapping on the interior skin isolated the noise to the window motor rattling against the interior "skin" of the door. He placed a bit of foam behind the motor as a trial fix and noise is no more! I'll ask him to use something with a little adhesive to insure that the fix is permanent. Good luck.

My 2000 legacy gt does it... same as above, ignition on (engine running or not) press on the gas pedal sounds like small electric motor buzzing... release gas pedal sounds like nothing. Always assumed fuel pump but I'm open to suggestions. Checked for horse fly... none found.

Fuel pump.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm This is one of the more definitive sites on all the Subaru years and models remotes and procedures. Hope it helps.