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Everything posted by brus brother
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2000 Legacy GT Auto (no pet barrier) The numbers I get fairly consistently are in the 22 mpg range. The ECU has had numerous battery disconnects to reset and never changed anything other than my radio preset stations. BTW, the computer was flashed for the latest update and no change in mpg either. Hope you enjoy your new car and if 8K is what you thought was a good deal then it was a good deal for you!
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"Sounds corny"? Sounds fishy! Now if we only had some clams we'd have a real beach party. QUOTE=nassor]I am wondering if anybody has tried the e-ram product on a 2.5i engine. It alledgedly will increase HP by %10-%15 by using a high current electric fan that kicks in during WOT and pressurizes the intake a little. Sounds corny, I know, but it just might work. The poor-man's supercharger I Guess. http://www.electricsupercharger.com/I've considered it for my '98 LOB (if I ever get it fixed) -Nassor
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The body styles change every 5 or so years. The 05 was the beginning of the new cycle and would then hold that newer car look for more years than the previous generation styling. I love the styling of our 05 OB Ltd. Compare the rear tail lights on this newer incarnation as two distinct lamps as compared to the band of red reflector that went across the entire back. The 05 is higher and has more "hip and shoulder" to the look. I feel the 05s are styled like a better scaled Lexus (which I find too large and clunky). You'll be getting a longer warranty with the new car if this matters to you. The older car is back for sale either because it had issues, an accident or was driven as a leaser by someone who may not be as concerned as you about care and longevity. I stayed away from the 05 turbos because of the required premium gas and I don't care for the hood scoop which though at leaast functional on these models gives the car a more "boy racer" look. Of course... IMHO.
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Your bolts may not be rusted sollid but I remember doing these up at Moosen's with Connie on her Loyale over on the Old Gen site. Ended up unable to remove the bolts so zip zip zip with a sawzall and replace the bolts with a new set she had on hand. She was prepared and it payed off, extra few bucks for insurance on a Sunday afternoon, driveway repair.
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Nope. The warranty is with SOA not the individual dealer. Don't waste your time checking anything other than the reality check that you have a warranty. Get what you paid for and if they can't fix it on the spot, get a loaner car and drive it until they remedy the problem or in the worse case scenario, replace the car under the "lemon laws". A friend actually just got his 05 replaced under this law after a month of failed attempts to fix his Subie. There will be certain cars out of a production line that end up being the runt of the litter but there is nom reason that you should be stuck with it. Good luck and report back.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38454&highlight=05+headlight Check out this link, you are not alone. I do admire your desire for self-sufficiency however, MAKE the dealer do it. I have heard of a number of failures of bulbs on the 05s and while I accept that a certain number will fail by the law of averages, apparently this may be a problem with the supplier. You should neither have to pay for the bulb or the replacement on a car that is probably less than a year old.
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http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html Slate metallic is what the lower accent color is listed on the above website. SOA may have little touch up bottles or you can have an auto paint supply store make you a 16 oz. rattle can to match. I've read here where the bumper paint has additional plasticizers for the flexible nature of the bumper material?? Welcome to the board. I've had exceptional experiences with the members here.
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If you can't find one at the junk yard, call up First Subaru Parts.com. I went through this with them a while ago and they at first thought I had to buy the rear half of the car as per the parts manual but after inspection it was determined that the handle could be had separately (perhaps interchangeable with another year) for about $13. Pop off the interior panel, disconnect the arm, two severely rusted nuts will probably break away and then just reconnect the arm and away you go. I got mine free from Oobnuker (Thanks again Oob). The car has since been transferred to Wagonsonly. It's all in the family.
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Simple to open the interior panel as I remember just climb into the back compartment, pop the clips from the bottom and sides and you should be able to see that an arm has become detached from a pivot point or attachment. Actually, it's probably easier to move the lever by hand and once you open the hatch, work on it like a biped standing upright instead of a worm slithering around the back of the car.