brus brother

Had a 90 Loyale until last year. Had 160,000 miles when I sold it. Yup, leaky engine seals. Could have used it to generate income "sealing" asphalt driveways. Other than that, I abused it to no end and it kept on ticking. Rusted here in the NE. 27,000 miles??? seems like a find. How much? How is the exhaust etc. any rust?

Start with the heat shields. Get down and dirty and start banging on the exhaust at various points. You may be "lucky" and are the victim of heat shield vibration.

Seems a common problem. Apparently the solder joint on a resistor fails. There is actually someone on the site who will fix it for free. Use the search function. His member ID is NorthWet.

"For those who say 'this isn't aimed at the typical Subaru customer', I have to agree, but I would remind Fuji Heavy Industries that people who are blind and/or insane are probably not a good market upon which to base an all-new vehicle." Blind and insane drivers? How many of them are out there... and don't forget to include L.A. drivers. If they could just capture that market share alone... it would be a boost to their bottom line. Martin, your comments are far too sensible and should be kept tucked away safely in CO. far from our seat of government.

You make it look easy. Thanks and Happy Father's Day.

Is it by chance leaking at the drain plug? The plug requires a new(?) crush washer which is the same type crush washer as on the oil drain plug.

That's a noteworthy observation. I wonder if one of the tech gearheads can explain the whys and hows. I assume we are talking about regular operating temperatures and all other things being equal?

There is a TSB on delayed engagement at the NHTSA site. When you shift from reverse to drive, there is a noticeable delay in engagement, with a clunk. There may also be something about hard shifts on that site. Is the car still covered under the 5 year 60K warranty or did you get some sort of warranty from the seller? I had the transmiision on my 2000 Legacy GT AT replaced under warranty... twice! Good luck.

Washington state, yeah, it's a long way to drive with a slipping clutch.

Slipping in high gears, gradually progressing to slipping in lower gears. The cable was adjusted out so there was play when at rest, then came the God awful smell of the clutch burning apparently as it was slipping and sliding but not grabbing. Car was a freebie to begin with and intended for a 16 year old new driver. Thankfully she wasn't driving when it gave up the ghost on the parkway. R.I.P.

Bad news: Well, the 93 Legacy white wagon with 180K gave up the clutch today. This car had been given a second life when Oobnuker basically donated tan interior door panels and seatbelt retractors to replace the blue dog chewed ones from the previous owner. Besides the clutch and the usual murky headlamp lens, it ran fine. Good tires and a loud radio. Woohoo. Good news: This is a giveaway! If Moosens or another member doesn't get there first, it will be donated to whatever bogus charity comes for it. It is located at a gas station in Orange, CT. near the Merritt Pkwy. Come 'n get it.

Isn't Subaru "part" GM?

In theory I might agree with Brian's Peace, Love and Woodstock approach. However I own one of the 05 OBs in question. Granted, I don't use cruise control but if the system worked "flawlessly" in the past, I find it hard to excuse engineering standards below what previously existed. I accept the notion that cars are works in progress and I am sure that SOA is working on a retro-fix as they have done in the past for quirks that arise in new models but I feel it necessary that they continue to hear from those who find fault with their brandy new cars (which are soon to be last year's models).

This is from the link I gave previously... Programming or Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off. Code Alarm Programming Button is under dashboard on the kick panel by the driver's left knee, left of the steering column. If you can't find it, it might still be tucked up in the wiring harness higher up in that same general area. The botton is recessed in a plastic ring (see diagram).

My 2000 Legacy GT wagon came with three removable headrests. Initially, I removed the middle one for visibility and recently the other ones were removed in order to flatten the seats all the way forward for lugging things around. See if there are holes in the top of the seats where the headrests would have been inserted. It might be that the L model wasn't concerned with whiplash for rear passengers. If the holes are in the seats, I'd try bargaining down the dealer on price.

Then, are you on the original clutch?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05%20legacy%20program%20remotes Try this link and search your model. If it is a factory installation, it shows where the security switch is located and I think you have to do some routine with your key... or was it you do the hokey pokey...

What model? How many miles?

It stands to reason that the driver's side window is open more and dirt and rain etc. might gum up the switch panel. Warning!!! See if there is a contact spray cleaner that might do the trick before and if unsuccessful, then after you've removed the door panel. I might disconnect the power but I'm not sure it's necessary. Despite warnings I received, when I opened the switch to clean the contact, there were all these tiny pieces, springs and ball bearing that I proceeded to lose in a gravel driveway. I eventually recovered them all and all was well, but don't follow in my wayward footsteps! If you decide to open the switch, work in a safe area.

OK, let's try narrowing down where the gremlin is hiding. When you say "changing the position of the passenger side window" are you changing it from the driver's side control? Is the effect the same if you use the passenger side controller? If it is just from the driver's controller, is the effect the same if you "change" the position of the rear windows?

Perhaps the mooing sound you describe in your new car is the ghost of your old car.

Hey Wintersubaru, I see your located in the Pickurnose mountains. I'm in CT. and I recently discovered a rust prone area on a 93 Legacy. Look behind the right rear tire. You actually need to get under the car from the back and look forward. What you are looking for is the gas filler tube as it comes down from the fender. It is "protected" by a black plastic shield that in the lower turn in the pipe actually traps road dirt, sand and salt and very predictably will rust through your gas filler line (about $150 part) so pull the plastic back and rinse the crap out of there. Learning this the hard way, I had developed two pinhole leaks but was able to seal them with an epoxy made specifically to fix gas line, tanks and radiators ($3 from Autozone).

On my 90 Loyale, what rusted out were these little fuel "dampers" that are about the size of a stack of three quarters kinda shaped like a small round ravioli. Get rid of the bugger, splice in a piece of rubber gas line hose and say so long troubles.

Rizzo- The pinging doesn't start until the car is warmed up. You need that heat to allow for detonation. The pinging occurs under light load but if I floor it and beat the snot out of it there usually is no pinging. 01 Outback- Apparently the computer logic is different for the 3.0 Subeman- Can you say "false advertising"? Blatant- turn the radio down. It only draws attention to the fact that you are driving a stolen car. nurseman - I did fuel injector, throttle body and upper engine decarbon process without much difference. forrester2002s- same as above but maybe the Canadian gas has different additives. doeleen- 2.5 is stated in owner's manual to run on 87. I believe your 05 XT requires premium which is why I bought the missus the 05 OB Ltdi. CT and NY switched from MTBA to ethanol but this problem has been going on since before the switch. unverviking- you may have had carbon buildup allowing for detonation but it is encouraging that you no longer have the problem whether it was from the injector cleaner or Rislone. subeman90- I'll track the mileage. I will follow the SOA directions even if they insist it is the headlight fluid that needs changing and then challenge them for a rationale. Thanks and keep those cards and letters coming in. Any more comments from the cheap seats?

Of those using Mobil gas, are you able to use 87 octane?