brus brother

Velcro strips?

Your assumption is probably right about them just tossing you whatever was around and yeah you should search for a replacement for the driver's side or rig the one you have (punch a hole where the post would line up). Try going back to the salesman and tell him you nearly killed a pedestrian when the mat got tangled around your brake pedal! If he is unresponsive, run him over and render him even more unresponsive. There are a number of Subaru dealer/discount parts suppliers. 1stSubaruParts.com (west coast) and Liberty Subaru in NJ have their discount parts department. It's the same as their regular parts supplier but they discount if you assk for it! Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford CT. will also give an online price. Pay shipping/no tax.

Where can I get an Edsel?

I just realized that the gas filler tube on my 91 Legacy has a "protective" shroud that trapped years of road sand/dirt/salt and caused the pipe itself to rust through. Check yours out just behind the passenger rear tire. I also noted on my 90 Loyale and 00 Legacy that the same sand/dirt/salt collection occurs within the front quarter panel and you can access the area by opening the door and then rinse it out. Any other areas to watch out for?? An ounce of prevention....

36psi seems high. What is recommended in the manual for your veehickle or on the door post on the driver's side? Fill 'em all to spec. and then run it on the highway to see if you still have a drifting problem. If OK, relax and wait to see if the tire runs low again and then get it fixed. I once had 4 new tires mounted and balanced and an alignment only to discover when I had drifting problems soon thereafter that they just eyeballed the tire pressure. Way to go boys, lunch time!

OK Set the multitester to Ohmmeter. You will need to have a probe connected to each lead and first touch each probe together. You will see the needle move which indicates that you have a completed circuit. Now if you touch one lead to one end of a wire and the other probe to the other end of a wire you should get the same result as above if the wire is a continuous circuit (continuity) and not broken. If you set the multitester to DC Volts and touch the red (positive) lead to positive battery terminal and the black (negative) to the negative battery terminal you will see 12 volts registered on the meter. Now move away from the battery to the switch and check that you've got power to switch and then each relay and leg of wire. This will indicate if the wire is conducting electricity from the last know point where you discovered current. Electricity is quite linear and the process is intuitive once you know the basics. Even if you don't solve this problem yourself, get friendly with multitester and follow the logic and process that finally fixes this for you. Hope this helps.

Good question. What are the indications for doing all this work? Mechanic's child entering college next fall? Watch the fluid level very carefully. Test for hydrocarbons in fluid etc. If there are overheating problems and the mechanic actually filled and got the air out of your coolant system then consider the nasty deed.The price is insane. CCR Engines will ship one for about 1/3 what you've been quoted. CCR may even talk you into a 2.2 bulletproof engine instead of the plagued 2.5.

Looks can be deceiving. Did you use an ohmmeter to test for continuity/resistance? This is the only predictable way to check for a break in the wire. Let us know if you are unsure of how to use a multitester.

"airbags were not deployed. (Which was great because that's the most expensive part of a repair sometimes.)" True, true. Some insurance companies will total the car based on the cost of repairing/replacing sensors and bags. I didn't read about insurance or the like but hope you got your car road ready without too much pain. The fellow at least took responsibility and didn't claim that the boulder hit him. Take it from someone who has lost friends in auto accidents, thankfully only feelings and fenders were hurt.

Checked your antenna connection?

Did it on a 91. Screw at the door pull beneath square plug. Screw behind door lever, behind pop out plastic trim. Screw at front lower corner and then pop connectors the rest of the way around. The door rests on a channel near the top that you'll need to lift the panel above. Once you have the door panel released, you need to disconnect the harness to the auto locks and window controls.

Well I tried the gas tank repair epoxy from Autozone $3.00 and it seems to work as advertised. It's a two part putty where you knead the two parts together and just press it onto the area to be repaired which should aready be sanded and cleaned using a brake degreaser or other cleanser (check package).

demonic possession? good luck. please post back with solution.

Well, I went back and didn't see that you had actually tried to swap in a different relay?? I was trying to prevent more trouble with my suggestion. Oh, by the way, have you tested the fuse or changed any bulbs? Seriously, there have been some fairly exhaustive scenarios presented and questions posed. I would suggest you slow that buggy down, start again and 1. Check owners manual for normal expected operation of your Veehickle. 2. Change the damn fuses or at least remove them and test them in your hand 3. Start at the battery and jump power to the light 4. Once you know the bulbs work (I'm sure they do as they are all brandy new) remove the fuse and gradually work backward from the light with a jumper from the battery at each junction until you lose power to the bulb. Remember that you can keep cutting that same board and it will still be too short.I don't mean to be a wise rump roast, just speaking from my own history of persistent yet stubborn failure. Good luck.

I've been following this post and will be nostalgic when it's gone! Anyway, is it possible to test the relay any other way than as described in this post? If there is a short, might it not cook this other "swapped in" relay as well? Now you'd need 2 relays and have to still find the root cause of the problem!

How bad is the leak?? I am about to embark on a ?repair of the inlet pipe. It rusted out at the usual spot, right at the bottom of the bend where sand and salt cake up inside the "protective" cover. I found an epoxy kit at Advanced Auto and Also at Autozone that requires LIGHT (KABOOM) sanding, pretreatment with alcohol (the metal not the operator) and application of epoxy and mesh. It's less than $10 and I figure it's worth a try since those darn phillips screws holding the filler tube in are as tight as... well they're real tight. It's a '91 and has seem many a Northeast winter.

The heat shields surround various parts of the exhaust from the y pipe back. Slide under the car and bang on the various components of the exhaust. Use the Search function on this site where you can find different solutions from using a sheet metal screw to tighten, stuffing steel wool between the shield and the exhaust or depending on how much of a risk taker you are, cut it off if it is really loose and stay out of high grass. Of course, stock replacement of the section is always an option.

And now you have to catch up with that other tire!

Heat shield on muffler or is it not that kind of noise?

Do you know the original owner? Is this info available through Carfax or the dealer who may have sold you the car? Perhaps this trail of bread crumbs will help identify the original dealer, installer or manufacturer of the alarm. Who knows, you might even make it operable.

Sent. BTW, I just saw that I can add attachments here but haven't tried it yet.

Search around here and there are some (me included) who aren't thrilled with the handling of the 05 OB. There are other Legacy/OB sites where some immediately considering upgrading suspension and tires. While I'm not quite as fanatical, it's a bit sloppy in hanling even compared to the tuned suspension of my 00 Legacy GT (both wagons). I didn't drive the new GT Legacy so I can't say anything about its suspension. I was trying to avoid the high octane requirement of the turbos. The ipod is an issue on the 05s. Use the Search function on this site. The early stock face plate for the radio/HVAC is one piece (now 2) making aftermarket changes difficult and there is not a clean ipod interface. It's a 1st year production issue that should be rectified by 06. 06 models should be here in August but rebate/incentive deals don't usually appear for at least a few months after that. By then, the 05s you're looking at now will be heavily reduced for clearance. BTW, used to go swimming in the abandoned quarry up Lochearn (sp.) Rd. in the late 70s and tubing on a river in the same area while attending UMBC Baltimore when Fells Point was just a bunch of funky dive bars... and now?!

OK for the out of towners, Tribeca was a term coined by clever real estate agents to sell what was at the time a dreary part of Manhattan, formerly industrial and commercial loft spaces. TriBeCa stands for the Triangle Below Canal street. As it turned out, the marketting worked. This area, blocks away from the former (I hate saying that) World Trade Towers became one of the more trendy NY neighborhoods. The car is still UGLY!

The one that has been driving me mad appears to be styrofoam agains styrofoam lining the insert of the trunk compartment on my Legacy 00 wagon. I tried silicone spray but it didn't help. Is there a magic fix?

For giggles, while at the dealer today I got the service dept. to scan the interior trim panel parts blowup for me. Appears there may be a screw inside the light at the rear lower corner but this may be just to attach the light. If you need the schematic, PM me and I might be able to fax or scan and email attachment. I don't know how to do it on this site.