brus brother

OK to recap, 2000 Legacy GT from day one pings with recommended 87 octane. I had been using 89 or 91 octane until the price of gas equalled my mortgage and then got serious about figuring it out. I'm just barely under an extended warranty and want to get this settled. The car still pings under LIGHT load using 89 octane (seems like if I floor the pedal for hard acceleration it's OK). The following has already been addressed. New plugs Upper engine and fuel injectors cleaned New knock sensor New rear O2 sensor Timing belt changed at 70K while determining that the timing was off one tooth (apparently misset at factory but the computer never threw a code??) The computer was flashed to the latest parameters Is it possible that the computer is faulty? Any other suggestions appreciated.

Just saw that you are in NJ, but here in CT., most professional auto paint suppliers will make up a 16oz. spray "rattle" can for about $18 matched to the original code. Let your fingers do the walking through the yellow pages

On my 90 Loyale which was in the process of being consumed by rust, in between Bondo patches, I would routinely touch up areas with Rustoleum Gloss White... fairly ghetto, but hey, a 90 Loyale in the rust belt...

2000 LegacyGT - Dealer has recommended GM Upper engine cleaner to maybe cure ping. Does anyone have experience doing the Seafoam throttle body cleaner. I am concerned about the mention of TB coating being affected. Any pics of port to use appreciated.

Just curious -- at what point of continued faulty design should customers become aware that the manufacturer doesn't give a hoot?? How long does SOA want to retain a valued customer? 1 car? 2 cars? Lifetime?

What octane rating are you using? Have you ever used injector or throtle body cleaners?

Flames a comin'. The issue is that there is a 100K warranty issued when SOA realized that they had produced a defective product. The fact that SOA is stalling everyone with their stop gap measure until the car passes the 100K mark does not bode well for those who expect the same performance from the newer subes as in the past (and I'm not talking about the 96-99 vintage of internal HG leaks). If owners were made acutely aware of the current external HG faults, they might be more attentive to early signs and symptoms (smell of leaking glycol, small drips) and not be sucker punched by the final failure some 5,000 miles past the warranty. Unfortunately, most car owners barely know where to fill the gas, so tuff luck huh?!

Was it the driver's side head gasket? There was a volunary program where this vintage had an extended 8 year/100,000 mile warranty if you allowed SOA to install some stop leak into the coolant and prevent the external head leak. You should have received notification of this a year or so ago. I would suggest that you ask SOA to share the cost as 5,000 miles out of warrant would indicate that the leak was already there and just hadn't quite manifested itself as of 100,000

I had success using 91 octane but it gets pricey. After years of complaining the dealer changed the knock sensor (no effect) and then checked the timing and the belt was off one tooth from the factory so at 70K I got a free timing belt change (I bought the belt) as they were in there anyway under warranty. Never threw an engine code. The problem was slightly improved but I still get the ping under light load. I have run various fuel line cleaners without success but now SOA suggests GM Upper Engine Cleaner through the throttle body. It seems unlikely that it is caused by a carbon buildup since the problem was present when the car was brandy new. The tech says he may swap in a 'puter to see if that helps.

What's the difference bewteen SeaFoam and GM Top Engine treatment. SOA is stumped with the pinging with 89 octane when it should be OK with 87 octane on my 2000GT AT and is recommending the GM before replacing the 'puter (still under extended warranty). The car has behaved this way from day 1 but only recently did I try to save $ on premium fuel and try the lower grades as specified in manual. It's got new plugs, knock sensor, even adjusted the timing as the belt was 1 tooth off from factory (yet never threw a code) and multiple BG44K and Fuel Booster runs through the tank. With a history that goes back to the 1st day, will flushing the throttle body have any more effect than changing the headlight fluid?

Park car in iffy part of town after dark. Wait a few hours and you will see how fast others can remove your hub caps, radio, battery etc.. Really, just wedge a larger screwdriver between the rim and the hubcap and pry out a lttle, move around the wheel and gradually pry a little at a time and you are done.

Gives new meaning to the Mel Gibson movie "The Road Worrier".

Hey CTGal, Did you simply add it to the gas or did you actually introduce it to the throttle body?

Possible the idle speed is set too high. BTW what was the "valve problem" that was recently fixed?

I read recently on this site that the recommended position for the donut spare is on the rear. I haven't had the time to check this information out. Probably just a fine detail but worth a look.

There is a computer flash (reprogram) for the sport shift aspect of automatic transmissions.

It should work for the passenger (er dog) side as well once you've performed the steps as descibed above. There is actually a TSB from SOA for this but it doesn't give the details on the NHTSA site. Anyway, it should work for you since I was successful and my wife says I am barely smarter than dirt.

Worked for me. Turn key to ON position. DO NOT start engine. Quickly buckle and unbuckle driver's side seatbelt 15-20 times rapidly then turn key to OFF position and remove key. The next time you start the car the chime will chime 5 times and then stop. The chime will still chime 5 times each time you start the car.

Here's a better stupid question... when you're searching frantically for something you've misplaced, someone comes up with the very helpful "Where did you see it last?" Get my gun...

Sailing a kite throught the tilting sunroof with the key attached to catch the lightning and energize the windshield wiper motor during a North American thunderstorm while sitting in uncomfortable seats all the while confident in the AWD system but envious of the Germans' Atilla the Hun ability to cross the Alps atop elephants without AWD?

Would've thought you'd bought a Kia by now.

I am as lazy if not as unskilled as the rest but would it be so difficult to incorporate a dash or console mounted switch to achieve the same thing as inserting a fuse. It would seem more user friendly than telling the average Joe or Jane that they have to start playing with fuses with images of sparks flying from 'neath the hood. Hey Commuter, maybe you could add this to your letter to the suggestion box at SOA.

OK don't get too "Sqirrelly" on the lads. As far as posting etiquette, I've never had to cover my ears from the "volume" of typing in all caps. In fact we have many a visitor here from other countries where English is a second language and so the issue should stay on topic... grease and gears if you will. Sorry I can't help you with your current request but lurk around here and you'll find that some of the gents you are sneering at right now will be of great value to your quest Subaru. Good luck with your project.

Hey Commuter, That is a damn good idea about the notice attached to the donut spare. Perhaps an idea that SOA would take under consideration. I didn't know the deal about donut preferably on rear only. Thanks for the heads up.

Grease the bumper/alignment pads where the hatch lays against the body. Make sure the small springs haven't broken. If the noise is within the door itself, loosen the interior panel (remove a few of the lower snap off clips) and feel around for anything you can "rattle" by hand. Take off the entire panel if you are sure it's coming from this area and use bits of foam to quiet the bugger wherever a piece may be jangling your nerves. If all else fails, turn up the radio.