brus brother

Was it the driver's side head gasket? There was a volunary program where this vintage had an extended 8 year/100,000 mile warranty if you allowed SOA to install some stop leak into the coolant and prevent the external head leak. You should have received notification of this a year or so ago. I would suggest that you ask SOA to share the cost as 5,000 miles out of warrant would indicate that the leak was already there and just hadn't quite manifested itself as of 100,000

I had success using 91 octane but it gets pricey. After years of complaining the dealer changed the knock sensor (no effect) and then checked the timing and the belt was off one tooth from the factory so at 70K I got a free timing belt change (I bought the belt) as they were in there anyway under warranty. Never threw an engine code. The problem was slightly improved but I still get the ping under light load. I have run various fuel line cleaners without success but now SOA suggests GM Upper Engine Cleaner through the throttle body. It seems unlikely that it is caused by a carbon buildup since the problem was present when the car was brandy new. The tech says he may swap in a 'puter to see if that helps.

What's the difference bewteen SeaFoam and GM Top Engine treatment. SOA is stumped with the pinging with 89 octane when it should be OK with 87 octane on my 2000GT AT and is recommending the GM before replacing the 'puter (still under extended warranty). The car has behaved this way from day 1 but only recently did I try to save $ on premium fuel and try the lower grades as specified in manual. It's got new plugs, knock sensor, even adjusted the timing as the belt was 1 tooth off from factory (yet never threw a code) and multiple BG44K and Fuel Booster runs through the tank. With a history that goes back to the 1st day, will flushing the throttle body have any more effect than changing the headlight fluid?

Park car in iffy part of town after dark. Wait a few hours and you will see how fast others can remove your hub caps, radio, battery etc.. Really, just wedge a larger screwdriver between the rim and the hubcap and pry out a lttle, move around the wheel and gradually pry a little at a time and you are done.

Gives new meaning to the Mel Gibson movie "The Road Worrier".

Hey CTGal, Did you simply add it to the gas or did you actually introduce it to the throttle body?

Possible the idle speed is set too high. BTW what was the "valve problem" that was recently fixed?

I read recently on this site that the recommended position for the donut spare is on the rear. I haven't had the time to check this information out. Probably just a fine detail but worth a look.

There is a computer flash (reprogram) for the sport shift aspect of automatic transmissions.

It should work for the passenger (er dog) side as well once you've performed the steps as descibed above. There is actually a TSB from SOA for this but it doesn't give the details on the NHTSA site. Anyway, it should work for you since I was successful and my wife says I am barely smarter than dirt.

Worked for me. Turn key to ON position. DO NOT start engine. Quickly buckle and unbuckle driver's side seatbelt 15-20 times rapidly then turn key to OFF position and remove key. The next time you start the car the chime will chime 5 times and then stop. The chime will still chime 5 times each time you start the car.

Here's a better stupid question... when you're searching frantically for something you've misplaced, someone comes up with the very helpful "Where did you see it last?" Get my gun...

Sailing a kite throught the tilting sunroof with the key attached to catch the lightning and energize the windshield wiper motor during a North American thunderstorm while sitting in uncomfortable seats all the while confident in the AWD system but envious of the Germans' Atilla the Hun ability to cross the Alps atop elephants without AWD?

Would've thought you'd bought a Kia by now.

I am as lazy if not as unskilled as the rest but would it be so difficult to incorporate a dash or console mounted switch to achieve the same thing as inserting a fuse. It would seem more user friendly than telling the average Joe or Jane that they have to start playing with fuses with images of sparks flying from 'neath the hood. Hey Commuter, maybe you could add this to your letter to the suggestion box at SOA.

OK don't get too "Sqirrelly" on the lads. As far as posting etiquette, I've never had to cover my ears from the "volume" of typing in all caps. In fact we have many a visitor here from other countries where English is a second language and so the issue should stay on topic... grease and gears if you will. Sorry I can't help you with your current request but lurk around here and you'll find that some of the gents you are sneering at right now will be of great value to your quest Subaru. Good luck with your project.

Hey Commuter, That is a damn good idea about the notice attached to the donut spare. Perhaps an idea that SOA would take under consideration. I didn't know the deal about donut preferably on rear only. Thanks for the heads up.

Grease the bumper/alignment pads where the hatch lays against the body. Make sure the small springs haven't broken. If the noise is within the door itself, loosen the interior panel (remove a few of the lower snap off clips) and feel around for anything you can "rattle" by hand. Take off the entire panel if you are sure it's coming from this area and use bits of foam to quiet the bugger wherever a piece may be jangling your nerves. If all else fails, turn up the radio.

Hey CTgal, Now that you did the Seafoam treatment, what octane are you using without getting ping?

My 2000 Legacy GT AT was replaced at 36K for delayed engagement as you describe. In fact, the tech drove it and gave the wink and nod to the service manager who ordered a reman tran on the spot. Thank you very much for 100K extended warranty, they just replaced the reman trany at 76K when it started making noises. This delayed engagment is a KNOWN ISSUE from what techs have told me. Something about a seal not holding pressure. Check the TSB with NHTSA. There may be a listing.... I think I found it. Make : SUBARU Model : LEGACY Year : 2000 Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 166602 Date of Bulletin: MAR 15, 2003 NHTSA Item Number: 10001352 Component: POWER TRAIN Summary: TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT (TCU) CODE 45 AND ALL-WHEEL DRIVE HARSH ENGAGEMENT. *TT If this is not the same, identify your problem as "delayed engagement" and ask that they accomodate you. Unfortunately, yours failed out of warranty. See if SOA will share the cost with you the "loyal owner".

Had same problem from day 1 on my 00 Legacy GT. Supposed to run on 87 octane but gradually ran higher and higher grade to reduce ping. In my case, the pinging was under light load or uphill. Change your spark plugs if you haven't done so recently. That helped a little for me but after continued complaint to dealer (extended warranty) they pulled the timing cover at 76K miles and found that the timing was off by one tooth. The pinging is reduced but not completely absent. The dealer now suggests fuel induction cleaning. I have been using gas line cleaners regularly so I don't think this will help much. They could just as well suggest new tires! Let's see if this thread has any life or if it is just you and I who have been so "blessed".

I believe the "rock solid" 2.5 model referred to is now an interference engine which on the off chance that your timing belt or tensioner goes unexpectedly, you can basically use your engine as a lawn ornament. The old 2.2 was bulletproof and the old timing chain was flawless.

"I'm taking the trans to the transmission shop to have them give it a shot." Sometimes it takes a fresh look to see what was there all along, like the guy who complained that "I cut that board three times and it is still too short". Hope you find salvation at the tranny shop. I've been following your dilemna and dogged persistence. Let us know the outcome.

Check local junk yards for cheap solution or check out Crutchfield for upgrade.

As I recall the handle mechanism is about $15 from one of the Sube dealer discount parts houses. Two bolts and a snap on arm and you are done. Brandy new and ready to start rusting again.