Spinnaker

Good info on the sending unit. It had the TOD before but now it was more like the KOD (Knock of Doom). Sounds like a bottom end knock more than a lifter area sound. I shall try the Marvel oil today as I am right in the middle of pulling the oil pump and doing the timing belts. I'll keep ya posted! Tim

Ok.... I am a DUMB rump roast!!!! I had the fuel lines backwards. So it fires up now. But It still has a bit of stumbling when the pedal is pressed about mid way down. I also think that now I need to replace the micky mouse gasket. I'm getting a fairly hardy ticking that I have not had in the past..... And the oil pressure gauge is reading close to ZERO. But that is were it has always been since I got the car. Thanks for the help guys! Tim

you know, I can rebuild a boat or engines no problem.... But I still have a hard time cooking a damn hot pocket in the microwave... I have found that the best way to cook is .... Nice a crispy on the outside... Damn... now I'm hungry! Alright, I'll get you guys know how it goes!

Hmmm.... I will check this when I get home! I'd be ober pissed if it was that simple. Though that does sound like something I'd do.... Tim

You know... About the U-check/D-check connectors.... I have the green connectors... But there is no White one.... There IS a pair of wires right next to the green connector that are male/female spades.... just no actual "plug". Could someone verify the wire colors for the white plug? I assume that this is the proper wires as they are not connected... When the owner of the boat bought it it was a BAD shape. It was the product of a nasty divorce. The husband dismantled just about everything on the boat so that the wife would not want it.... I lived on the boat for about a year working full time to rebuild/replace/repair everything to get it sea worthy again. That included all the teak wood work, rewiring the whole boat, adding the fresh water makers, installing the radar (buy myself up the mast...), setting up the sideband. I also had to dive down under the boat to retrieve MANY parts that the PO had tossed over the side in the marina. I also had to source out sails as there where none on the boat when it was purchased... Mind you I knew NOTHING about sail boats before I started this project. I also had to rebuild the Perkins engine too. Good thing I like engine work. PS.. I recommend that you pay someone else to do the zincs... I almost died trying to do them myself....

Awesome post! No worries one the length.... I like complete and through conversations.... Ok... I have the IAC and the injectors connected to the correct harness leads. I do not believe that you can swap the plugs... ie. they are not interchangeable. I shall have to check over the wiring this afternoon. I must say... These cars are easy to work on.... But I still prefer to work on my '93 Mustang as I worked for Ford for a while and know them well. Thanks! Tim

hmmm... I played with the TPS and made sure that I had not set the High Ohm threshold above 8.5 Ohms. More like I can only get it to max out at about 6.5 Ohms or so. I think that I will pull the injector connector and hit it with some 9V juice it see if it will cycle. That way I don't have to pull it if I don't have too cause I'M LAZY!!!!! Yeah.... I sailed to Hawaii in '02 in the Vic/Maui 2002 Yatch Race... And I don't think that I'll go that far offshore again.... The boat was a 65" steel ketch. Something like 22,000 lbs boat.... Not the best for a race boat.... But we did have a big tv and enough food to make the boat list about 4 degrees! HEHEHE... That boat was odd to have wing on wing... We hit a storm two days out of the Straight of Juan de Fuca with 60mph winds and 20-25 feet swells. Most boats ran for shore or ran small sails. We put up as much material was we could.... Had the bath towels up too! We where haul a$$!. Two days later we got stuck in the Pacific High and averaged something like 3-4 knots that rest of the way..... Heavy boats don't like light wind..... Urmm... Ok... Tim

If you pull in a bit of the sheet we can stop you from luffing Mr. Jib.... Tack on three! Ok.... that was lame... I wonder if we have lost anyone yet? Ok... It will fire up for a moment if I prime the motor with fuel down that throttle body. I removed the throttle body as one whole unit when I replaced the TPS. Meaning that I did have to remove all the vacuum and such. I believe that all of them got hooked back up correctly. I do not recall ever hearing the injector cycle. But I did not run a D-check yet. Yesterday, before I pulled it all apart I did get a IAC code from the ECU so I changed that at the same time. I do have a spare injector that I picked up so I may try swapping that in it see if it makes a difference.

Ok.... So I replaced the TPS with a known good unit. I also replaced the IAC valve. Now the car will not start. It is NOT getting any fuel. There is nothing coming out of the injector. When I pulled the fuel line off of the regulator it sprayed all over the place so there IS fuel to the reg. Any Ideas guys? Thanks, Tim

Thanks for the reply... Ok, I went to the JY and got another TPS. The ohms read much higher than the one on my car (2.45 - 6.8) but still not where the FMS says it should be. I'll let you know what happens. Tim

Hello Guys, My car is an '88 GL Wagon EA82. I have been having problems lately and I need someone to tell me if I'm on the right track.... I had to replace the CTS a few weeks ago to fix a no start issue. The cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel/air filters, and PCV have all been replace within the last month. Problem One: Ok, the car starts HARD in the morning.... Like I have to use starting fluid hard. For the rest of the day it's not too bad. Problem Two: The car idles at about 1250-1500 RPMs. After a minute or so the idle will start to falter. It will drop about 250-500 RPM and then it will return. Problem Three: When driving it has big dead spots in the throttle. When you hit one of these spots it will stumble very badly. I think I hear the motor pinging when it stumbles. You can feel it stumble if you rev the motor in neutral, but it's not nearly as back. Almost like it's a cylinder miss. Also, there is NO POWER over 4000 RPMs. You can still get up to the higher RPMs but there is no pulling power. I tested the TPS per the FSM. It read .5ohms - 3.5ohms. Not even close to the 3.5 - 8.5 called for in the FSM. This leads me to believe that its the problem with the flat spot/stumble. I'm I correct? My thought is that if I replace the TPS then I can also lower the idle without having stalling issues. I also intend to clean the filter that is at the fuel pump which I haven't done yet. That my also be contributing to the no power over 4k issue. Please let me know if I'm on the right track here. This car is getting less fun to drive everyday. Thanks for the help guys! Tim

Hello All! Ok, so my question is where the HELL is the harness for the O2 sensor? I had to swap on a new y-pipe the other day. OLD Y-pipe: O2 not hooked up Converter was gutted Car ran well NEW Y-pipe: Have no idea where to hook up O2 Cat is in great shape Car stumbles and rans not so well There is a harness connector that close to the cat but the connctor is not similar to the one on the O2. The O2 has a wire lead coming off of it. The harness connector appears to be a push on style. Would you guess that to O2 is a universal aftermarket item and I just need to splice it into the existing harness? Thanks!

Ok.... Now I feel like a dumb a$$! It was the CTS....:-\ I finally took my mutimeter to the JY to check on a CTS that was in a similar GL that they had. It appeared to be good so I grabbed it and a couple others so I had a spare or four... Now I just have to deal with the damn striped header stud holes! Thanks for all the help guys! Tim

Ok, good to know that I am on the correct track. I guess that I will go to the JY and pull a few to see if I can get a good one. There is a real nice GL with only 60k on it.... Maybe there is a good one on the one. Thanks for the help! Tim

Yeah, I am working with the correct CTS now. It is the one with two leads that go into a greenish barrel/weather pack connector. I was getting a ohm reading of 400 but the manual I have said that I should have been getting something closer to 5-11.5K cold. But I may be wrong. I think that I'm going to have to pull the CTS and try to test it in different temp waters to check its operation. Tim

Ok, So here we go. I went to the JY and grabbed another FPR to swap in. It made no difference. I pulled the CTS connector apart and cleaned the contacts and add the dielectric grease here too. I was not able to get a ohm reading with my fluke meter. This leads me to believe that I may have a bad CTS... Is it common at all for CTS to go out? And if so, do they slowly get progressively worse? Would that explain why it was hard to start prior to this no-start issue? What would you recommend that I do from this point? Thanks again! Tim

Ok, so I played with the CTS that is mounted to the radiator. I cleaned it and applied some dielectric grease. It made no difference. So I started double checking everything. I found that I have fuel coming through the filter and upto what I believe is the throttle body. When we turn the key on there is a spurt of fuel... So the fuel pump is priming... Then, if we crank it over we get a stream of fuel... so that must mean that the fuel system is ok up to this point. With the fuel lines reinstalled we try to start the car. Now, with the throttle body exposed, as we crank I see no fuel entering into the engine. If I manual add fuel down the intake I can get the car to start. So this leads me to believe that it IS the pressure regulator. Is there a good way to inspect the reg? Or have we now established that it is the problem? Is there a 'catch screen' that I may need to clean? Thank you guys so much for you help! Tim

Ok, the air filter is new too. I also cleaned the MAF housing and elements. I think that I was working with the sensor from the dash gauge. I will go back and look for the CTS. I also will check for any vacuum leaks. Thanks for the help! I'll let you know what I find. Tim

Hello everyone, I have searched and followed many of the recommendations in many of there posts. Well here is the the info. I have an 88 GL SPFI Wagon with 155K on the clock. It has NEW NGK plugs, Cap & rotor, fuel filter, PCV valve, and some questionable fuel hosing. The problem is that the car will not start. Every once and a while it will catch and fire up but it usually dies just as quickly. Before this issue popped up, to start the car you had to hold the pedal to the floor to get it to fire (it would smell really rich when it would fire). I checked the timing belts and they are ok. They are not missing any teeth. I am getting spark. I am getting fuel, I think it may be too much fuel. U-check and D-check both repeat 5 blinks, I assume that means no codes are present. I have read about the CTS and I think that I checked it. It was green with corrosion. I added diealectric grease to the terminal but that is it. What would you guys suggest that I do next?:-\ I really appreaciate you help!! Thanks, Tim