nicholi2789

It not going into reverse was just me being panicky and jumping the gun. I came back to the car after a bit and started it. It still runs like it's missing really bad (engine shaking etc), I am able to shift through all the gears just fine. The the rediculously rough idle and the single PO303 code. It has something to do with this cylinder misfire. I am just praying praying that it isn't a burnt exhaust valve or something. Any suggestions?

Update, I got the car towed to my work and scanned the code. It's a cylinder 3 misfire. One single code. It happened really abruptly too. It's obviously missing bad. I don't think it's the clutch at all now..

What are the symptoms of a burnt out clutch? Pretty sure mine burnt out today. Before it happened I was driving and was getting a bad shudder when I let out the clutch. Happening intermittently. Then after some more driving I was pulling it into a parking lot when it started acting weird. The motor sounded like it was under load when I had the clutch pushed in. Kinda like how it sounds when you first take off maybe? And I can hear a sound coming from around the bell housing when it's idling. Also when I let out the clutch and tried to take off I could go but it sounded like it was gonna die. No extra noise when I push in or out the clutch that I can tell. Oh, and it won't go into reverse at all. Anybody have a clutch burn out on a subaru? What was it like? I didn't notice any slipping before but I have noticed a whistling sound that happens only when I push in the clutch. That's happened since I bought the car. Any advice guys? I'm in the process of getting it towed home but I need to know for sure if it's the clutch or not.

Hey guys, didn't wanna start a whole new thread for a semi-related question. So everyone says use ONLY NGK Spark plugs. I replaced my plugs about 15K miles ago w/autolite coppers. Been wondering why I get such crappy mileage and have done ALL the normal tuneup stuff. So i resolved to replace the plugs again w/NGKs. So tell me if these platinum NGKs are the right ones please. I didn't wanna go with the iridium ones and didn't wanna use the base coppers. So i got these. Will it maybe improve my fuel economy? By the way I have had no CELs. If this doesn't then I will do the MSD coil mod.

It's say to put oil on the seal, not sealant. But either way, I'm sure he'll be fine. And as for using aftermarket seals. I bought a timing kit off eBay including all the seals and did it about 10k miles ago. Haven't had a single problem or drop of oil. Those seals fit just fine.

Are you talking about the seal that's embedded in the front of the pump? Cause that is the crank seal. Or front mail seal. If you just search crank seal you'll find it. There is also the seal between the oil pump and the block. You can buy pre-made seals for that or you can just use what most people use and get some anaerobic gasket maker for sealing the pump to the block.

I am looking into those right now. Just had a catback put on now I am looking at headers to order friday. Depends on what you want. Unequal length headers are what most people get (UEL headers), and they are what produce the rumbly burble sound you hear on a lot of subarus. You can get Equal length ones too but most everybody gets UEL. You can get Borla replica headers off ebay for 120-150$ shipped and most people say they are better than the real Borla headers (or less prone to cracking at least. These ones on Speedyracer.com come pretty highly recommended: http://www.speedyracer.com/headers/exhaust-parts/headers/1999-2005-SUBARU-IMPREZA-25L-RS-SOHC-HEADER-STAINLESS But they are always out of stock. Any pre-2005 dual port header will work supposedly (assuming you have dual port heads). This is the one I think I'm gonna order on friday: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-97-05-N-A-2-5L-2-2L-1-6L-2-0L-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-/231491456107?fits=Model%3AImpreza I'll report back when I get them and let you know, or post a video.

Make sure you have everything adjusted on your deck. There are so many sub menus it's easy to miss one. I had a similar problem,did two new rear speakers and I was sure I had them hooked up correctly but no matter what I did I had no sound. Ended up being the settings on my deck. Good luck!

Ah okay. So the wheels I was looking at are too big then.they are 55. That sucks they were a super good deal. Ooh well, I'll just look around for some wrx rims or something.

And how bad do they rub? The outback has a little more clearance too tho.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the responses. So it tells me they will fit basically but not how close it's gonna be. My speedo will be off a few mph and I can deal with that. I just wanna know how bad they will run. A little rub is okay by me until I can get Outback suspension and stiffer sway bars. I was curious what the biggest rim size is that people have used and got away with on stock suspension.

Hey guys, looking to get some bigger rims and tires for my 95 subaru. I'm looking at a set of 17s. I was curious what is the biggest size I can fit without rubbing a ton and modifying the suspension. Anybody put on a set of 17s with the stock suspension? The wheel size for the ones I'm looking at are:P215/55 R 17 buying them used for a good deal that's why the odd size. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure that if you take the heads off that and bolt them onto an EJ22 block you will have the perfect Turbo friendly Frankenmotor. Could be wrong though.

When I did the valve covers they weren't too rridiculously crusty. A little golden orange looking but not too bad I think. I cleaned them with brake cleaner anyways. And as far as MMO goes, someone suggested I use it a couple months back and since then I have put a quart in and ran it for the last 500 miles or so on the last two oil changes. I had to drain oil out to do it. I use Mobil1 high mileage synthetic 1040 now on my oil changes. Always have used high quality oil too. I'll see if I can get some better pictures of the pan. I think i have pictures of the inside of the valve cover gaskets before I cleaned them too. What do you guys think of doing the clutch as a preventative? I'm pretty sure it will go out eventually as the pedal engages almost all the way out. Tho it shows no sign of slipping yet, and it will squeak the tires if I try. I just know eventually the clutch will need done, and i really wanna do that separator plate to have all the leaks fixed.

Hmm well oil consumption isn't really a problem.. It amazingly only uses about a half a quart of oil over 3k miles. It does leak oil onto the exhaust and cause smoke sometimes which is very annoying. That's the main reason I wanna do the separator plate. The clutch doesn't need to be done yet. I just know it will eventually. I don't plan on doing til I have to. So does the engine need to be jacked up to get the pan off? EDIT: And I have already swapped the PCV valve and checked the whole PCV system for clogs.

Hey guys, So i've been slowly replacing all the leaking seals on my old tired Subaru. Recently did all the cam seals/crank seal, and the valve cover gaskets. Now I am looking at replacing my oil pan gasket (it's leaking quite a bit) and also wanted to clean or replace the pickup tube. Then all I will have left is the oil separator plate (which I will do with my clutch) and I will be leak free! Woot! Anyways, I am looking for a little guidance on this particular procedure, and I haven't been able to find a good write up for this particular engine. Mine is the 95 2.2 SOHC. Anyways, I have heard quite a few times now that the pick up tube in the pan can get clogged up and cause oil starvation in the engine, and that scares me, especially considering it's unlikely the pan gasket has been done, much less the pickup tube judging by the way it's leaking. So I figured since the pan gasket needs to be changed I could clean the pickup or replace it while I'm in there. Have any of you guys done this? And does it sound like a good idea? This car has 270,000 miles almost and I want to do every possible thing I can to make it last. I've seen on other write ups that the bottom engine mounts have to be loosened and the engine jacked up to get the pan off. Is this true on this particular engine? Cause it looks to me like I could get all the bolts out and the pan off without doing it. Also, what do you guys recommend for the gasket? A pre-fabricated gasket or just some good ole RTV? Thanks in advance for all your help. As always, much appreciated.

Hmm interesting. I think I still like the first one better. Thanks for the links though, I would definetely go for the first one. Even if it is just a marginal or negligible gain I still wanna do it. I feel like that combined with headers and exhaust will gain me a decent little chunk. It'lll sound cooler anyways. lol.

Nice man. I bought and installed a 35W HID kit on my 95 Legacy recently and absolutely love it. They are 6000K bulbs and are so much brighter than the stock H4 Halogens. Mine are Bi-Xenon so they have the highbeam and lowbeam in the same bulb. But it's also a different headlight setup than yours is. And as far as compatibility goes. I don't have projectors yet, but everyone says HIDs aren't compatible with stock lens made for Halogens. Not true. Mine put out a perfect oval shaped pattern in the front of the car. High or low the beams are very clear and focused. I was actually surprised at how well they work together. And they don't blind people. I still want projector lens though to get the most out of my HIDs.

Wow that is a real nice find of yours. That cold air intake looks to be way higher quality and lower price than the ones I've found. And it's a REAL cold air intake. Actually goes into the fender not like all the other ones that sit right next to the engine. I'm actually gonna buy one of these now when I got the money. Thanks!

Yah I've thought about that and crankcase pressure,but I have replaced the pcv valve Less than 10k ago. My car uses less than a quart of oil over 3000 miles. Truly. I know it's some kind of miracle with 270k miles on it. Makes me wonder if it was rebuilt or something. Anyways, I'll check the hoses then swap the caps out. If I notice more oil consumption then I'll dig further. The old pcv valve was pretty dang dirty before I swapped it. Anyways, thanks for the info.

Hey quick question for anyone who can answer: Has anyone ever heard of putting a hole in an oil fill cap to relieve pressure? When I bought this car I noticed this. It has a 3/4 inch hole drilled into the cap with a little plastic tube coming out into an empty quart jug. I asked the guy about it when I bought car and he mumbled something about relieving oil pressure. Didn't make sense to me. I never replaced it because I didn't have another car to replace it with and didn't see what harm it would do. But yesterday I got a replacement fill cap at pick a part. Can anyone see any reason why this weird cap setupwas there? Or any harm in replacing it? I can see what that could be but just wanted to see if anyone saw something I didn't. Lol.

Thanks for the advice. I've already done that very thoroughly and it didn't make a Damn bit of difference in how the buttons work. I've tried everything aside from ripping the Damn thing and and taking it apart to clean it. But it's cool I got a new one in better shape to install now.

Ah good advice. I suppose I could always mix and match the bulbs out of the two cause I'm pretty sure all the bulbs work on my current ones. The buttons are just funky. Question about these climate control panels. On my current one, the buttons are sticky and when I press then it doesn't change the vent settings. Like right now it's stuck on bi-level vents and no matter what button I press that's where it stays mostly. So are the vents controlled electronically? As in will replacing this panel fix my weird vent setting issue? I'm assuming the buttons are just broke and replacing the panel will fix it. Any insight on this?

Ah good advice. I suppose I could always mix and match the bulbs out of the two cause I'm pretty sure all the bulbs work on my current ones. The buttons are just funky. Question about these climate control panels. On my current one, the buttons are sticky and when I press then it doesn't change the vent settings. Like right now it's stuck on bi-level vents and no matter what button I press that's where it stays mostly. So are the vents controlled electronically? As in will replacing this panel fix my weird vent setting issue? I'm assuming the buttons are just broke and replacing the panel will fix it. Any insight on this?