nicholi2789

So last night I found out that my blower motor is almost for sure the culprit. It quit working again and I reached down and smacked it with a screwdriver handle and it immediately started working again. So obviously it's the blower. Today I drove to the valley (about 2 hours) and stopped by a pick a part. I went out into the yard and found a 96 Legacy Wagon with the blower motor still in it and intact. I of course pulled it. I also found a climate control panel, new cup holder assembly and new pieces of facing (where the hazard button is)and the other piece that goes around the Radio. Some A-hole busted all the plastic around under the radio when they installed it. I also got a new oil cap. The guy originally wanted 80$ for all of it. I haggled him down to 40$. I made sure the blower motor worked (he plugged it into a little battery). I also made sure to keep the screws around the climate control panel and cup holder and got a ton of extra screws for all that dash stuff so If I lose any I got extras. So the only thing I'm worried about. The car these came out of is a 96, mine is a 95. The parts are identical to mine but I was afraid for some reason they wouldn't work. Can any of you guys tell me? 40$ for all this stuff I feel like is a good haul.

When I did my belt a month ago, no matter what I did one side was half a tooth off. No matter how I routed it or whatever it always ended up that way and it made the timing mark on one side off by just a half tooth. What I ended up doing was making it so that when I pulled the tensioner pin it would pull it back and they ended up in line. So maybe these numbers are right?

Alright. Thanks alot guys. I was thinking about replacing the climate control unit also because the buttons on it are funky and barely work anyways. How did one of those cost you guys roughly? And as far as the fan motor goes, the more I read about this the more I suspect it's the motor. I did open the blower motor box and pull it out partially to make sure it wasn't clogged but that was it. I'm waiting for it to quit again before I can beat on it to seen if it makes it work. Lol.

And one last thing, how hard is it to access behind that climate control panel? Can it be accessed by removing my stereo and continuing that way? I hope so because I'm a pro at removing my stereo now. Is the climate control easily replaced too? As in not extremely expensive and easy to find and swap out.

Thank you. Yeah I've been reading up on this problem and it seems like it's fairly common. From everything I've read, I don't think it's the resistor, because when it quits it doesn't work at all on any setting. I'm hoping that it's the relay. It's working right now, but next time it does it I will pull off the bottom dash cover and smack the relay and see if that works. Failing that, I'll get some some test lights and test the motor for current when it's not working. I'm really hoping it's not the motor. It doesn't look like much fun to replace. Is there a burning else it could be? What about the climate control panel? The buttons on it are really sticky and it's hard to change the vent nodes. Though the actual fan switch turns just fine.

Yeah i actually started looking around in eBay the last couple nights and found another set of supposed JDM projectors for 140$. I fully plan on getting them just waiting to finish up my exhaust and have the money for those. Besides being 100X more efficient they looking freaking badass.

Pull the deck and check the wiring behind the deck. Is it a stock or aftermarket deck? Either way you can look at the wiring diagram on the FSM and find out which wires are the rear speakers, splice some new speaker wire in and run it back. I had the same problem on my 95 legacy it turned out that whoever wired the deck did it incorrectly and didn't even sure the rear speakers in. Then just left it out of sheer laziness. You would be surprised at the rediculous stuff people do when wiring cd players and car stereo systems.

Hey guys, I'm back with another small problem on my 95 Subaru Legacy. Lol. The other day I was warming my car up in the morning and I turned the fans on full Blast and nothing happened. I said "Wtf..." turned em off back on and off again still nothing. I could hear a clicking (relay or something?) behind the steering wheel clicking somewhere every time I turned the switch but other than that. Nothing. Then after a little bit they finally kicked on when I turned the switch and operated normally. Normal amount of heat and power too. Really weird. It's done it a couple times since and they always eventually work but it's got me worried. Is there a relay or something going bad that can cause this to happen? Maybe one of you guys has had experience with this before? This car does have some weird electrical bugs going on. Every once in a while it will blow dash light fuses even though I've removed my aftermarket cd player and made sure he illumination wire wasn't grounding on anything. Also, the door locks will cycle randomly at random times when the car is running. Sometimes when I turn it off I'll have to cycle the drivers door lock several times to get them all to lock. Anyways, none of that really concerns me like the heater problem does. I gotta have my heater. Maybe somebody can take a stab at why it's doing this? I would rather not go to an auto electrical shop and have it diagnosed. Once again, thanks for all your help in advance!

Thank you for the explanation. Lol I understand how projectors and HIDs work. I was just saying that considering not one person has flashed me their high beams since had them installed, it stands to reason that they aren't that obnoxiously bright.I did take a considerable amount of time adjusting my headlights after installing them tho. They produce a nice oval shaped beam. I shined them on the wall of a building about 40 feet away. The light pattern is nice and round. I adjusted them down a bit too so they aren't shining up in people's faces. Next time I get a chance I'll snap a picture of the light pattern on a wall, and post it. It's very clean and round.I would also like to say that I checked the laws before buying them and they aren't illegal here. Anything over 6000k is illegal though.

Thank you. Yes I know what projector lens are for. But everyone calls people with HID kits that DON'T have projector lens assholes, but like I said, I have yet to have one person flash me because my lights are too bright, or be pulled over once. Maybe it's because I chose 6000K HIDs and the light blue color is easier on the eyes than the whiter ones. Either way I would love to have projector lens, I'm still looking around to find some for my car that aren't an arm and a leg.

Yeah i want a set of projector lens but they are extremely hard to find for this car. I did find a company that fabricates them tho. Honestly I don't see what the big deal is about projectors and hids. They are bright but not that bright. Nobody has flashed me at all. I woulda went the subaru stock foglight setup but these ones are better I think. Way brighter than the stock ones are. And I think they look cooler. I would however like to get them wired up so they turn off when the ignition is off but I'm not sure how to do it. I haven't looked into it that much tho truthfully. I've left them on for an hour plus and it didn't drain my battery. Which is weird. I think it's cause I have a 3 farad power cap on my stereo system.

In Oregon it is illegal to have your highbeams and foglights on at the same time. Still though it is nice to be able to have the choice to turn them on or off at will. On my 95 Legacy L it didn't have foglights installed but it had cutouts on the bumper for it. I went and bought a nice set of H3 style rectangular foglights and installed them myself. I wired it so I have a toggle switch under the steering wheel that operates independantly of the regular headlights. That way when I'm driving at night and I really want some serious lighting, I flip the foglights on with my highbeams. It's like spotlights. So bright. H3's are really bright little bulbs so I would never keep them on with my highbeams if other cars are around. One thing I would highly recommend if you just aren't happy with your headlight brightness is an HID kit. I know a lot of people are gonna flame me for saying this but whatever. I also wanted brighter headlights so I started looking into HID kits. I bought a full HID kit off Amazon that included the bulbs, ballasts, all necessary wiring, plus capacitors (reduces flickering) and a relay harness (protects factory wiring harness) for 60$. And it comes with a 2 year no spoob warranty. That's about what you would pay for two high quality Halogen bulbs from Autozone or something. I installed the Kit and those by themselves are 10X brighter than my stock halogens. Don't even need my fogs anymore, but if I flip them both on its crazy bright. Installing the kit was a breeze. Literally plug and play into the stock wiring. Took 15 minutes to install. I've had them installed for 2 weeks with no problems. A lot of people bitch about people with HIDs but I haven't had one person flash their lights at me since I installed them. I bought a 6000K H4 Bi-Xenon kit (make sure to get Bi-Xenon not Hi/Lo) and they are bright as hell and have that cool bluish tint to them, or if you don't like the blue order 4000 or 5000K bulbs. I Highly recommend HIDs. I am currently looking for some projector lens to furthur control my beams.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I definetely don't want a loud rediculous exhaust. A little louder maybe but not obnoxious. I just want a little of that rumble. This car has no exhaust leaks at all so the stock exhaust on it is super quiet. Sitting in the driver's seat with it idling you can't even tell it's running unless you listen hard. Going from that to a super loud exhaust system probably wouldn't be cool. Haha. Plus i still wanna hear my awesome stereo system I installed. My buddy has a 98 Leggy GT with the Frankenmotor build (same body style as mine) and he has Catback with 2 and a half inch pipe and it sounds amazing. I'm wondering if I can get away with just buying a nice muffler to bolt on and if that would get me the sound I'm shooting for. How much does just a muffler change the sound of the car on these subarus? I would much rather do a full Catback exhaust but I am on a tight budget. Anybody have any suggestions?

Hey guys, So the last week or so I've been looking into getting a catback exhaust fabricated by a local exhaust shop (since pre-fabbed exhaust is way too expensive) and I had a few questions. So here is my idea, I'm looking at getting 2 and a 1/4 inch pipe from the cat all the way back with a muffler and possibly a resonator. I'm trying to get some of that signature Boxer growl but not too obnoxious. Basically the guy said he could fabricate all the pipe and hang it from the stock hangers for about 150$ (not including the muffler) but I should search around and see what Subie guys are using on their systems since otherwise I would be totally shooting in the dark for what sound I'm gonna get. So how about it? What are you guys using for mufflers or muffler/resonator setups that is gonna get me the best sound without being too rediculously loud? What brand? He said it needs to be an offset inlet preferably, and a centered outlet. Also, I am on a semi tight budget. 100$ or less for this muffler wouldl be preferred. Then it would have costed me in total about 225 to 250$ for this exhaust.

Yeah I have a 95 Legacy L and have been looking around for a good catback. So far no luck.

Yes it was parked on the incline the first time. That wasn't the reason I got airlock.

The day you stop taking other people's advice because you think you already got it figured out, is the day you stop learning anything new. There is always more to learn. And just because you you understand how an engine works doesn't mean that a particular type of engine can't have it's own quirks and problems that you can't foresee. Listen to these guys, they know their Subaru's. Experience is the best teacher, and they have given me sound advice on numerous occasions. I for one can attest to the effectiveness of this method. When i filled the radiator the normal way (I DID open the bleeder screw) I got airlock bad, and it took me two days to get it to stop overheating. The second time I filled it, I parked on an incline, dumped coolant down the top radiator hose, then proceeded to fill it. Went off without a hitch. I have done it twice more since and haven't gotten air lock again.

I did this job for the first time on my Legacy 2.2 liter a couple weeks ago and while the engines are a little different the timing job is almost exactly the same except for the tensioner and even that is almost the same. It took me more than 4 hours but I also took my time and did cam/crank seals, resealed the oil pump, new water pump, and all new pulleys and whatnot. Removing the radiator is the way to go for sure. Two fan connectors, recovery tank, two hoses and two bolts. Takes five minutes for soo much more space. Montana Tom was spot on with his post a little ways up. The hardest part of this entire job is putting the new belt on. After trying to route the belt so many times and still not getting the marks to line up I was ready to pull my hair out. That is by far the hardest part. I ended up having the passenger side cam about a half tooth off towards the outside, cause I figured when I pull the pin on the tensioner it will pull it towards the driver side and line up. I was right. I spent probably an hour or so trying to route that friggen belt. Like Montana Joe said, stay calm, don't freak out, it will work out. It is tough though. Lucky for me I only had to pull the pin on the tensioner once. It pulled the passenger cam in line when I pulled the pin. Everything after that is cake. Also, when refilling the radiator be sure to follow proper filling/bleeding procedures as it can cause you a real headache if you don't (trust me on that one lol). I fell confident if I had to do another timing job on one of these I could do it in half the time. Not that hard really. Hopefully everything works out for you and you are able to get that re-tapped. Good luck!

I am gonna have to agree with Heartless. I just recently did a timing belt job and had to drain and refill my coolant several times due to a couple complications after the fact. I filled the radiator by removing the bleeder screw then dumping coolant in until the radiator wouldn't take anymore. It did NOT flow from the radiator through the upper hose and into the block. Didn't happen. Even after starting the engine and letting it warm up with the heater on full blast it didn't fill the block. After doing that I still took the upper radiator hose off and got quite a bit of coolant down into the block.

Oh and I had one last question regarding the timing. I had access to a timing light today, I hooked it to cylinder one spark plug wire and had it warmed up, idling right at 750 RPMS. Shining the light on the mark, it was right at 13 or 14. Is that on? Right where it should be? I mean it idles smooth as heck so it can't be that far off. I tried googling what it's supposed to be but all I turned up were timing belt threads and videos, nothing on how to actually time it. And I can't find the page on the FSM (it's in Pdf form and none of them are labeled). So can anyone tell me if 13-14 is right?all I really know is that because it's a manual transmission it will be different than an automatic. Somebody somewhere told me that...

Yeah i never thought the radiator hose looked that bad. I was gonna replace them just because but I didn't. Anyways, I thought it was weird that it didn't take much coolant but I didn't exactly measure how much came out. Plus it was 330 in the morning and I had been working on it doe 7 hours almost, and that after already working a 9 hour day. I was tired and just couldn't bear to look at that engine for another second lol. Eh all well that ends well I suppose.

Haha stupid predictive texting. Lol. Rump roast. I definetely didn't meant to type that... Anyways, yes you did see that coming! And your advice was sound and solved my problem. Thanks alot for all your help throughout this thing. It was definetely a learning experience for me and I feel confident I could do it again in probably half the time. Just goes to show, no matter how much planning and research you do, there is always gonna be something that screws you up when it comes to this stuff. Always more to learn. Thanks.

Yeah the belt is definetely worn out but it's not as worn as you would think if it had that many miles. I noticed the newer water pumps have different fins on the inside. They look a little different.

And here is the water pump..

Here are some of the old parts. Is it possible that this could be the original belt and water pump? The water pump especially looks original. I doubt they took it to dealership and had these parts replaced but it is possible. What do you think guys? 264,000 miles on a timing belt?