nicholi2789
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Everything posted by nicholi2789
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Cool Yeah i didn't think it would hurt it. Now here is a weird thing. When I drained the radiator and took it out, I got about 4-5 quarts out of it roughly. After the job I turned the fans on full blast, opened the bleeder and cap, and burped the system for about 20 minutes and I could only get it to take about 2 or 3 quarts. Even after it warmer up and the gage was in the red zone. I thought that was weird. Anyways, I drove it home like that last night. Today I pulled it on an incline at work and opened bleeder, and cap, and burped it for about 20 minutes. I got it to take more than another whole gallon. Some massive air bubbles came out too. I also pulled top hose for radiator side and dumped about a quart of coolant in that way. Finally after turning it on and off and burping it it finally seems to be normal. The gage stays where it used to (slightly below half) and am finally getting hot air thru the vents. It's not overhearing anymore and seems normal. I didn't even have to replace the thermostat and honestly I'm not going to until it goes bad. I don't wanna do that again lol. It seems that the incline and pulling the top hose did the trick. Who knew how big of a pain in the rump roast a subaru cooling system could be! Anyways timing belt and seal replacing job is done! Thank you everyone for all your patience and sound advice! I could not have done it without these forums! -
I don't know what to do. I had it running and a ton of air came out of the system when I opened the cap, the gage is still spiking tho, I don't know what to do. I bought a thermostat but haven't installed it yet. Is there anything that could have possible happened from replacing the water pump that would make it overheat?
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Huh. Yeah I did do that when I refilled the coolant. I knew about the plastic bleeder screw (work in a lube shop and do coolant flushes all the time), and i bled the coolant system and burped it for like 20 minutes. I guess i'll do it again. One thing I didn't mention is that after getting the belt installed, before reinstalling the radiator and timing covers I did start to the engine for about 10 seconds to make sure it was gonna run. I was terrified I would get it back together and it not run. So I'm thinking maybe I introduced a giant air bubble to the system by starting it with no radiator on. I know that probably wasn't advisable but I really didn't wanna have to tear it down again. I couldn't see what it would hurt. Should I just totally drain all the coolant and start again? And by the way, is there another placed I can bleed from the plastic screw? Like maybe a heater hose by the firewall? I'm really hoping I don't need to buy a thermostat cause job has tapped me out. And is it going to hurt anything driving it w/the temp gage spiked like this? Like I said, the engine doesn't even get host all. The gage is obviously not reading correctly. But i have to get to work..
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Alright guys, after about 5 hours and a rediculous amount of screwing around, I successfully got the timing belt installed. New belt, pulleys, water pump, also removed the oil pump, cleaned it up and resealed it (ZERO bolts loose on backing plate btw, weird). All three seals were leaking profusely, Got new cam seals in, new crank seal, new oring on the back of the left cam. I fired it up w/the radiator still out just to make sure it ran. She purred like a kitten as always. Got everything back together. Obviously, nobody had been in that timing cover in a LONG time. It had a Subaru OEM belt on it (Still had faded Subaru lettering on it) and OEM water pump and thermostat as well. I did NOT replace the thermostat cause I couldn't get ahold of one in time. Is it possible that a belt could last 264,000 miles?!?! I I find it incredibly hard to believe that any belt could last that long. Then again, somebody MAY have had it replaced at a dealership and they used OEM parts, i find that unlikely also. Anyways I'll post pictures of it later. IAM HAVING A PROBLEM THOUGH. I had it warming up and was bleeding the cooling system, heater on full blast, ect. I noticed the fans were on already. Weird. I checked the temp gage after it running for about ten minutes. It was just above the halfway mark. Usually it sits below the halfway mark. As it warmed up the gage kept rising but I was getting zero hot air out of the vents. Figured the thermostat wasn't opening. I said screw it and buttoned it up, and started heading home, before going a block the temperature gage spiked all the way to the top. Pulled over. Then engine wasn't even hot. I mean I could put my hands on it and it had been running at least 20 minutes. Still cold air coming from heater vents. Bizarre. I tried bleeding the cooling system again and pull the thermostat housing and fiddled w/the stat. Still no bueno. I finally said codswallop it and drove it home (about 18 miles). Temp gage was completely pegged at the top the whole way. I pulled over halfway and checked, the engine still wasn't hot. When I got almost home the gage dropped to about 2/3rds for a bit, then rose again. Finally got hot air out of the vents for the last couple minutes. Got home, temp gage still spiked and fans still running, but engine barely even warm. Can somebody please explain this to me?!?! Is the T-stat not opening causing the cold air in vents and spiked gage? What do you guys think?
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Yeah we just ended up running to town and getting a compressor and using an impact wrench. About half way done. Can someone tell me with the cam seals, am I supposed to tap them all the way til they bottom out or what?
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I bought that Permatex anaerobic gasket maker sealant. Right now I am trying to get the cam sprockets off since I didn't loosen the nuts before removing the belt. Anyone have any ideas?
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Quick question for ya'll. One thing I am worried about is the sealant on the oil pump. I'm doing this tonight and I need to be able to drive it home tonight. Is that sealant gonna be set enough for me to drive it home safely?
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mpg?
nicholi2789 replied to sirtokesalot's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
My 95 legacy L sedan get's about 20-22 for most of the driving I do, which is mostly in town but some highway. On the highway though I get about 26 or so. Its a 5 speed too. I use ONLY non-ethanol premium gas and I even let my car warm up in the morning for at least 5-10 minutes. It is totally worth it for me to use non-ethanol gas. It runs so much better and has waay more power. I just think that fuel economy isn't one of the strong points of these cars. Everyone I talk to who has a similar car reports similar fuel economy. It's worth it for the AWD though. -
I was able to get the Oil Pump o-ring and the rear cam O-rings at Napa today. I just had to get a guy who was willing to do some digging through their catalogue. Had to order it in and should be here tomorrow. Thanks everybody for all your help. When I do this job tomorrow or the next day, i'll post and let ya'll know how it went.
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- Water pump
- 95 Subaru Legacy
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Yeah my 95 Legacy L's speedometer reads about 3 miles an hour or so slower than my gps also. Stock tires and everything. Just figured old car, old hardware, whatever. I noticed it a few weeks ago.
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Thank you for the offer, that's really kind of you. Unfortunately I'm trying to get this done this week so it will probably too late by then. I really really appreciate the offer though. Thank you. And thank you everyone else for your responses. That's what I love about this forum, everyone is super helpful and there isn't the rudeness you find in other forums. I see the Cam seal sets on RockAuto and amazon, but I already have the front cam seals and crank seal coming in my kit, so I was loathe to buy another gasket set that will have them. Though at only 5$ it's kinda hard to lose. The thing that confuses me is none of these kits say specifically Oil Pump O-ring or rear cam seal. And none of them list all the names of the specific seals.
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can you link me to the felpro kit? I already have the front cam seals and crank seal. Just need the oil pump O-ring and rear cam seals.
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Yeah I've tried O'Reilly and Napa. Neither had what I needed. All i really need is the oil pump o ring.
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Well I would much prefer to replace that O-ring but it's gonna cost me like 30$ on gas (140 miles round trip). That's why i was wondering if I can get away with not replacing it.
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Can anyone tell me if I absolutely have to have to oil pump O-ring to take the oil pump off and tighten the backing plate screws down? Is it absolutely necessary? Or can I get away with not replacing the gasket. It's 10$ at the dealership 70 miles away and they won't ship it to me. I have to drive down and buy it in person.
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Yeah that's on my to do list also. I know that eventually I will have to put a clutch in this baby as well, I figured when I do that I'll fix the oil separator plate leak.
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Yeah that's on my to do list also. I know that eventually I will have to put a clutch in this baby as well, I figured when I do that I'll fix the oil separator plate leak.
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Nah the nearest Subaru Dealership is like 70 miles away. I'm gonna call them tomorrow and see if I can get them to mail me out some O-rings and the O-ring for the oil pump also.
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Yeah i can't find those anywhere lol. No auto parts store has them. The passenger side one appears to be leaving a tiny tiny bit, but the drivers side doesn't look like it is at all. I wonder if I should just pass them over for now.
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And the cam cap O-ring your talking about, that is on the front of the driver side cam right? Rear cam seal? And the one on the passenger side is on the back really hard to get to?
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Haha, yeah thanks. I'm pretty good at figuring technical stuff out and using tools so it shouldn't be a problem. My only hesitance is that I will break something and get stranded. Lol.
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Yep, I really hope it does stop the smoking.That doesn't exactly make girls rip their clothes off in their haste to get in my sexy car Haha. I've watched/read a ton of material on this job and have compiled a list of things I will need for it. It will be the most major repair I have done thus far but I feel confident I can pull it off.
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Alright. Well that makes me feel better cause it definetely has not had any timing issues. It doesn't look like anyone has been in that timing cover for years though. I really can't afford down time as this car is my main commuter but I'll do what I have to do. I'm just really hoping that replacing these cam seals and crank seal stops the oil leaks so it won't leak oil onto the exhaust and smoke anymore. Anyone else had that issue? When I drive it for more than ten minutes it will smoke a little bit after I shut it off until the oil burns off. I looked under it and it's all leaking from the front of the motor. A mechanic said it was from the cam seals. Super common issue. Hopefully this fixes it.
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Hot dang, 130 ft/lbs?! I'm gonna have to borrow a better torque wrench. Mine onky goes up to 80 I think. Hmm that's gonna be tough. Maybe I'll just reef it down as tight as possible then cruise it down to the tire shop real quick and have then torque it for me. Crap now im really worried about that tensioner. What are the odds that it's still good on a car this old? There's really no telling is there? I mean dang, i don't have 70$ to drop on a tensioner.
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Hmm.. I see now. Well hopefully the old tensioner is still good. I honestly don't have the money to spend on more miscellaneous parts. I read that if you can compress that tensioner by hand then it is no good. Seems pretty obvious to me .