comatosellama

No codes, timing system is maybe 10k old, was working perfectly since last October. Will check the exhaust. Is a compression / leak down test a good idea? I was going to drop it off at a shop tomorrow, I’m in the middle of classes so I don’t have more than an hour or two a week to work on this. But I’m not too confident in a non Subaru specialty shop when giving them a car with no codes and no obvious issues

EDIT: FIXED: OEM O2 sensor from subaru parts counter fixed the issue My 02 OBS has started being really really weird. When taking off, if I don't keep the rpms over 2k the car lurches badly, and starts to misfire and pop, then will take off. The pop sound seems to only come from the drivers side cylinder bank. The misfire sounds like an old hit or miss engine. It kind of reminds me of when the vacuum advance on my brat was out. Flooring it always seems to smooth the car out. Car will then rip up to 65 mph without an issue (faster than ever with the new coil pack), and then will start to experience the same issue. I floor it at 65 and the car doesn't rev, it makes noise like it's under stress but it doesn't start going. Then after around 3-5 seconds of flooring it the car feels like it "breaks free" and will zip up to 80, until the car starts to sputter or hesitate again. New coil pack made it a little better, it runs better than it ever has between 2k and 4500rpm New fuel filter also seemed to help, but I'm not sure if it actually did. IACV thoroughly cleaned, definitely helped the low end out a little, but it still bucks at low speed. Throttle body cleaned Did some top end cleaner and threw some heet in the tank, not sure if that helped or not but I like to do i Cats, O2 senors, wires, plugs, air filter, knock sensor all have under 20k on them. Scanner wont tell me fuel flow rates and stuff so I can't check that right now Anyone ever experienced this? I'm not sure where to go from here except for a compression or leakdown test. My cylinder #4 has always slapped when cold, I've been worried about losing compression for a while now. Thanks, CL

Thanks for the tip. I went with new factory parts off amazon, I don't really trust off brands when it comes to suspension.

p0420 doesn't really matter if you dont have inspection though, my cruise still works when it turns on.

That size of general grabber AT2 fit great on my GC wagon back before I got my GD. Trailing arm spacers are very cheap to make and will help back wheel spacing.

Just ordered parts to completely redo my front suspension on my bugeye, and I'm not able to find any threads about how to replace the bushing that bolts into the subframe. I'm assuming using a modified pitman arm puller to push it out would work, but am hoping someone could link me to a good thread about it, been googling it for a while now and cant come up with any good info. Thanks, CL

It's iffy, i think it had 170k and ran, but I recieved the car mid repair (engine out) and never finished it. Are you looking for just the stuff that goes on top of the camshaft?

https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/anti-lift-kit-16800/ Looks like forester control arm bushings work as an anti lift kit (adds castor). I've got the idea that because my car already has subframe spacers and its lifted i should try replacing them with forester bushings to get batter handling

I have a ej22 from a 92 legacy fwd, located in michigan

You talking about these being the same length forester vs impreza?

The transverse links on my lifted 02 outback sport are going out and I cant figure out what replacements would be most beneficial. I'm thinking either an anti lift kit designed for my car, or forester transverse links, but I'm not sure which one will end up giving me the best handling. Anybody have any experience with this? Car is lifted on 05 forester XT struts Thanks- CL

https://annarbor.craigslist.org/pts/d/subaru-rs-ej25-longblock-low/6730408307.html looking to replace my short block and came across this. Advertised as 40k since rebiuld, but pulled to do headgaskets (sounds a little fishy). The cylinders have some slight surface rust and the tops of the pistons look heavily used. I’m thinking I could probably score the short block for $250, but don’t know what to really look for. Any advice would be appreciated!

Seems the engine really does need to be replaced sadly. If anyone wants to buy a 2010 fozzy that "just" needs an engine let me know! I told her to try and sell it to a mechanic. Just wish I could fly out for the weekend and save the car

My sisters 09 forester blew a head gasket and “ocv oil leak”. I’m halfway across the country and can’t really help out, and the shop she went to wants $4700 for a whole new engine, which seems excessive to me. Anyone know anywhere good in Denver to get it fixed? Heard good things about CCR

A/c was serviced probably 8 months ago. When a/c is on and heat is set to cold, you can hear the condenser under the dash trying to fill, but it never does.

This is the cause of my car “loping” like a diesel. I’ve been having near constant a/c problems. Seems like the car is out of refrigerant as well. Anyone seen this before? Time to grab a junkyard compressor?

Go to discount tire and have them check balance, if it gets worse with speed this would be my first guess. Especially if there aren’t any new noises associated with the vibration

I’ve had great luck using a really long screwdriver as a stethoscope, plastic end pressed hard against your ear, and poke the other end where you wanna listen. Confirmed my piston slap with this

Is this something I should be worried about? Car fluctuates revs at idle like a high strung diesel would. RPM on gauge doesn’t move, drives normal though

It’s definitely been a while! Started college around then and just haven’t had the time to do much wrenching. Sounds like I’ll tear it down and post it. Worst case if it doesn’t sell I’ve got spares for the brat.

Figured out that the “spare transmission” I was sold with my brat has a decent crack in the housing. Is it worth keeping around / trying to sell to someone for the internals or is it just scrap at this point? Thanks- CL

I’ve gotten an outback strut lift for an Impreza from a junkyard for under $200, worth checking a u pull to see if there’s a car with good struts

Cat and o2 seemed to be the fix. Did 120 miles on the highways today. No cel and roughly 25mpg!!! Just gotta get the oil to stay in the engine now

Just did the cat and rear o2 sensor. Car drives much smoother now. Quicker to rev down and pulls a lot harder at low speed and high gear. Also sounds bad-rump roast when the silencer is out. I did noitice what seemed to be straight oil coming out of the tailpipe though, is this an indication of the valve guide seals going bad??

Without a turbo that would probably be dangerously slow, the compression ratio would be way low