comatosellama

Is it possible that could be from the inner tie rod ends being longer, and needing longer boots to fit? I'm hoping this would actually work out, throwing in the PS rack from an ej while doing an ej swap would be a very nice addition to my brat

All this new marketing definitely saved the company, since 01 their market share has gone up 2.6% (from a whole 1% in 01). And i'm not saying the new subarus are crap or anything, just I don't think they're quite as... rugged I guess? I'd rather take a ea81 way out there than a 2015 fb25 with a CVT. But just an opinion

Can't learn if you're never wrong. I still stand by the second point, though.

There have been ea81s that high of hp, but they're in planes, with superchargers and fully custom cast heads, intakes, ect. (ram engines had a 200hp ea81) There's also a few people here that'll strip down an ej harness to run in anything with just about 3 wires, powers and a ground. Going price is $250 ish. Then you get full FI reliability and ease of diagnosis, but then you need a donor car for the full harness. https://www.google.com/search?q=carbed+ej22&oq=carbed+ej22&aqs=chrome..69i57.3973j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=0&ie=UTF-8#q=carbed+ej22+site:www.ultimatesubaru.org

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130721-hitachi-carb-q-a/

The things I'd do for a dual range ej box

I doubt they want to make something that reliable again. Profit margins are the vehicles themselves are very thin, and most of an automakers money is from replacement parts and service. On top of that having engineers spend lots and lots of time trying to get an engine more reliable is more expensive to the company than having techs fix it after warranty runs out (which is when almost all of the expensive subaru repairs come in, timing belts, water pumps, ect.) The old subaru robustness seemed to go out the same time they started switching to the "subaru lifesyle/ love" marketing, (I think that was the same time phase 2 came out, along with a new head of SOA) and making the cars more pedestrian in looks, sound and drive-ability. But that's just conjecture, I wasn't alive then Edit: see below

Photobucket messing with their image links ruined a good amount of the older stuff on here too. +1 for more upload capacity. Also the "you do not have permission to use that file extension" IMO should be gotten rid of as well, as even when I upload to external site it blocks me. Spent almost 2 hrs writing up a build thread last night, now have to go through and figure out what files aren't playing with the site

Looking for a wiring diagram for 94 impreza awd for my hopefully soon ej18 swap. Can only find the RHD fsm online. Anyone know where I can find one?

Stock or aftermarket carb?

Got adapters and finally have some real tires on it. Now if only I could turn more than 90*.....

Where's your axle from and is it new or a reman? Last new CV I got made a lot of noise and was pretty much DOA

May wanna open up at least one on each side of the tunnel... If you get water in there it's got nowhere to go

Thought I was alone on here

Make sure to keep stocked up on ibuprofen Even at 17 I had to throw the muffler back on my 99 LGT, headaches everytime I drove

One hell of a build man. Same time frame as mine too, lol. (3 years and I'm finally throwing on a 5") Wish I had the confidence to cut into the brat for that type of rust repair... (she needs it too) I'd say through the tube would be stronger, definitely with the sleeve though. And as far as removable cross members, if you're going to make it a permanent mount, I'd say make a custom engine Xmember out of some of that tube, would help with weight, and I imagine would keep down the shear load(?) on the mounting bolts of the body. Possibly even just do a motor mount sticking off each side of the frame? May not work because of the flat 4 though... And once this gets up and running I'd definitely be interested in seeing how that HDPE holds up... Been looking for a cheaper adapter plate option.... Also if you need any 1st gen crap that's off the body PM me I'll get it to you for cheap (I've got some sweet 4"-6" ish flared front fenders, just need a small patch, much easier than everything in this so far, pic here)

Any update on that?

What do you guys do for sway bars on the ea cars? I want to be able to hoon around some still after I install the 5" lift, and I remember some people talking about 3 wheeling just driving on the off ramps when they're lifted this much I was thinking I could weld on some hrew/dom onto a cut down front sway bar, and thread a heim into that, with some rod style links (I know heims are supposed to mount vertical, but I don't think there is enough force to break one on these cars in this application) For the rear I was thinking finding a basic sway bar shaped like this: And then mounting it on the rear lit blocks, with the same style linkage to some custom mounts on the " a arms" of the ea suspension (most likely a plate welded to the 2 trailing arms, and then a hole/nut or a heim mounting tab. Was also debating trying to fab one onto the torsion beam, but don't know how it would respond to the heat, and the added twisting. This is all on a car that will have a frame built for it from 2x2x.25, like 88hatch has on his, but with more mount points, along with 2x5x.1875 rock sliders/rocker panels that will be tied into the frame (doing boatsides with HDPE plastic), so I think it could take the extra stress

I can grab some pics for you if you want - not the prettiest welds (shop said they were real good with exhausts... not so much), but it does the job

You have to extend the up pipe of the header about an inch & a half, else the cat will be on your firewall

You should be able to disable the EGR between inspections by just taking off the vacuum line from it and capping the port on the egr and throwing a bolt with RTV and a hose clamp on the vac line.

Would a quality fuel pressure regulator do the trick? I know the 32/36 turds out after about 3.5 psi

Any videos? Duals and propane should sound pretty mean

They killed the burnt orange? Dang, that was my 2nd favorite color

For the bed trim, at least on my 77 and 87, you just put a screw in the grommet. I just posted to clip because others were talking about it, but for the bed chrome I don't think you'll need it. Edit: Didn't see the comment above