machthree2

dmachmer@gmail.com Dave Can we talk about upcoming 86 brat ej ?? tx

Hey there. I'm back in the mix and need some fresh advice. I have had 2 ej swaps, one by me and purchased another. My brat (gear motor) and 5 speed dual range conversion needs a 2.2. I have a odbc 2 donor lined up but would like to purchase a harness. Does anyone know of someone doing these. ? Also what is the fix or standard for radiator fans in a 86 brat. Tx

http://www.machworks.com/images/Lift

I used an 96 Outback knuckle on my 3 inch. May try a legacy for the two inch. The splines are the same for 81 82 and legacy if I remember. I would go to junkyard.

working on coilovers with adjustable camber top hat. going on Brat with 3 inch lift. The springs are heavy duty and strut fully extended and camber is off without coilover. if this doesn't work, will go with camber bolt on lower control arm to push out. Radius arms should be adjustable enough or may modify. In progress...

thanks guys .. it's a passion we have.

Lots of work to do the 5 speed. i lifted my Brat and that posed other problems and don't forget about making a custom driveshaft. i'm planning an ej upgrade and possibly a turbo so the 5 speed was designed for about 25 more horses which i will need. Definitely talk to Jerry and don't forget about the driveshaft cost.

JesZek and DaveT... thanks for you contribution to the Forum... I did get a pair of 85 Tempo Non Progressive (cant believe I found them). We tried them stock and way too stiff. We ended up cutting them to Original length and getting them on EA81 struts.. That was fun. They work darn well and will be perfect when I put a 70 lb winch on it. I just got my Pugs mounted with new 27" Generals and don't want to ruin them, so I need to address \ / camber. I bought a SP camber bolt kit for the inner control arms but not much room and before I tackle the drilling and welding on that, I was trying the Coil over route. I am going to look into Subaru struts as DaveT has suggested. The problem is the Coil over Sleeves fit right over the shock body, and most after market (Gabriel/Monroe/etc) shocks for EA82 have a wide cap over the seal area where the piston enters. I might just order a cheap EA82 with welded perch and just cut the lower Spring perch away mostly. $19.00. Once this is done, I need to mount the adj. pillow ball plate to my 3 inch lift spacer. I need to use a cutting torch to cut an access hole in the top so I can adjust the top of the strut in and out. Hopefully the Springs that came with the Coil Over Kit will be stiff enough. Most pictures I've seen of Non-Converted EJ knuckled Brats have a measure Positive Camber. I'm going fix that issue once and for all... at least for my little monster. I'll post the entire Coil Over thread once I get it done with pictures.

I just lifted my Brat 3 inch Boss Kit. I have a super heavy duty bumper and added weight not to mention I'm installing a winch on it phase 2. The stock struts were not strong enough. 2.7 turbo had a nice write up on Tempo springs so I found some and cut them to fit. Great set up but a bit stiff, and height of strut is topped out so I have a Positive Camber issue now. So, I found a thread on Coil Overs and am building now. The first thread uses a coil over kit and an adjustable pillow top (aluminum) It fits the EA81 shock pretty weird. HERE is my question... My friend gave me a spent EA82 strut. It has adjustable screws (lower perch) just like the EA81 and fits perfectly to what I need to finish. I know it is a EA82 based on the top of the piston is different where it mounts the the pillow top, and is a bit longer. My friend thinks that it's off an early Loyale 85-86 or GL. Does anyone know of adjustable EA82 strut shocks? I want the adjustable type because I don't need the "removable" lower perch plate. The EA82 replacement shocks have a permanent perch. I could cut it off. I found some that will work but they are Sachs 031-168 and $100 bucks a pop. Too rich for my blood. TX

I'm interested in two sets, but let me know if you are going forward. Thanks

check vacuum with external guage. Also spray start fluid at carb base to check for leaks..

We put a second filter ( legacy fuel injected) between the front filter and carb. Fuel injected filters are better (finer) at stopping dirt which clogs jets. Old mechanic trick.

Cable hooks to clutch fork. Nice ej22t project. Keep the pics coming and data on harness and exhaust routing. Looking at that mod next summer on my 86! Are you making your own adapter plate? Excited to see the finished product...

Purchased a Loyale with nice 2.2 ej conversion and was converted from a 3AT to 5 speed D/R. Very Nice car but i drive Subarus for the 4WD. The previous owner had studded snows on it in Seattle. He only put it in 4WD on steep snow driveway and complained about having trouble getting it OUT of 4WD. When I purchased the car I barely get the car to move on grass or dirt without jamming the High/Low out in reverse and car on pavement wouldn't even move. On snow, it was down right dangerous and felt like it was "pushing" the steering or no traction in front to steering. Rear Diff said 3.9 and tags were off of the tranny. I put the Loyale on racks and mesured 7.8 turns of driveshaft to 2 rotations of wheels. (3.9?) MUST be the tranny I thought. When I put the car in 4WD and rotated the driveshaft, the front wheels turned at a slower rate than the rear wheels. So ...I put in a different 5 speed D/R 3.9 and Wammy ...It drives perfectly with no fighting front to rear, ? The Math Part. ... Did I have a 3.7 D/R or if my math is right I had to have a 4.1 ? Is it possible to have a 4.1 5 speed D/R that looks just like a 3.9? What a mystery .. but solved. Any thoughts?

I'm going to try this from my cell. I ran my Loyale without a PCV valve and it was OK PCV valves do get oily by nature. Oil levels can change if water is passing head gasket and getting into oil pan. Also, fuel passing old worn rings can get into oil and thin it causing low pressure A compession check can test rings. A fast test is oil change. If pressure stays stable after warm up with fresh oil you have some other liquid thinning oil

Oil pressure sending unit (under oil pump) is sometimes unreliable as well, but have a mechanic use a oil pressure gauge is better. I was referring to the entire oil pump (multiple gaskets and O rings) My Oil pump exhibited identical PSI readings before I rebuilt mine? The EA81 is solid and reliable motor, if you know how to clean and maintain a carb. No timing belts. My friend put in a EA82 motor and 5 speed in his and it rocks, but still carbed. One can maybe do the SPFI model and be off to the races. Might as well do the 2.2 EJ swap if going that direction? If you haven't done an EJ conversion, be prepared for a lot of work... but it is an rewarding once it's done, if done right. I would invest in a Haynes or other manual. It has some good info on how to use a vacuum gauge, and what that reveals. Also a shop can do a compression and or leak down test. This will tell you valves, valve guides, rings, etc. You may just have dry and hard valve guides? Would need heads rebuilt. Valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy . Rock Auto Head Gasket would probably allow an oil burn (smoke) or exhaust noise, or water in the oil.

If it has never been done, do oil pump reseal. Take out the radiator and belt, oil and 4 bolts. I used a impact screw driver to take the pump apart. Important: To remove the oil pump take out 4 bolts and leave the oil filter on. TAKE a plastic hammer and while twisting (grab the filter for leverage) tap the pump to rotate it. You must break the rubber o rings first before trying to pull straight out. I broke mine off in the block trying to pry it out. Took a week and special puller to get the pieces out. Mine went from under 22 - 75 psi once I repaired it .

this sounds dumb but did you try water pump? Also, try and bypass the heater by connecting the hoses together. Does this help the overheat. i noticed on my Loyale a problem of overheat and bypassed the heater because i thought i had a restriction in heater water flow. . Not sure if it was an air übubble in the heater circuit, but after i replaced my water pump and burped the system and reconnected the heater, the overheat went away. Also run the heater when you refill. One can grab the lower radiator hose and squeeze it mult times while doing the burp thing. I got bubbles out that way too. If you overheat Subies too long you definitely can warp heads etc. Leaky exhaust can cause overheat.. Also restricted exhaust pipes .

My 3 inch Lift + 5 speed required a longer driveshaft. I used a 94 legacy auto front shaft and Loyale back shaft. Gave me around 55 inches and I custom made a center bearing bracket.Works great and very little angles

thinking of trying camber bolts on inner control arm bolts

I had issues with hot starting on mine. it would start cold but hot was a problem. i would pinch off the fuel line into rails , and it would start as a test. Ended checking the temp sensors on manifold and one was bad. Also had a leaky injector? So I believe it was a flood issue due to temp read and injector. This was obd1 and led's were not working Good luck

When reassembled the car and stuck in a motor, we did overheat once from bad thermostat. Guage in car went to 2/3 before we checked upper hose for cold. This might have warped something,maybe the insulator. Will swap out intake and carb on weekend and report back. We bypassed all the vacuum line except to dist and can. Also modded the hitachi with 79 manual primary and secondary.

Everyrhing looks clean and bottom gasket , insulator, and top gasket are new. Spray carb cleaaner at base and idles revs.. Does anyone use gasket seal or goop on manifold gaskets, or am I warped? Rebuilt Hitachi and jetted lean..

iluvdrt Good to here success stories.. Would you happen to have any of the spacer stock so i can copy.? i did put the modified 81 flywheel in and it worked perfectly. $60 for machining though. another $35 for normal 12 thousands off plate surfaces. The reason for the driveshaft change was the 3 inch lift? Now for the good stuff. Went to reassemble the new 81 fly disk and PP on my motor. Somehow while mocking up the Ea82 stuff I toasted the thrust bearing and trashed the motor. Somehow before i started trimming the block for the ea82 fly, I think I sinched it up and rotated the engine enough to channel out the crank bearings? Sounds impossible but something trashed the bearings. Beware. The block needed the two angle trims + two small channels at bottom near the pan to clear the ridge on the 82 flywheel. I think when I impact wrenched the fly on, the crank got pulled a bit against the bearings, I did something to the crankshaft? Thank the lord I had anther 81 block.