3Pin

you should start a new thread. You have highjacked Rnaquin's thread.

The key is to follow the instructions to the letter. As soon as I get sloppy and try to do one from my memory banks it doesn't work. Glad to hear you have it working.

search car-part.com

Congrats!

I found this in another post: The P0700 is a "MIL request" but does not identify the actual cause. When certain faults are detected in the transmission control area by the transmission control module (TCM or TCU), the modulewill not only record a transmission trouble code and turn on the Sport light, but also sends a P0700 to the engine control unit (ECU), which turns on the CEL (MIL). Whenever a CEL is triggered the cruise control is automatically disabled, resulting in the flashing CC light. The stumbling and stalling might have been related to the engine control system going into a "failsafe" mode to protect the transmission, or it's possible that the transmission malfunction caused the engine to stall (as might be the case if the torque converterlock-up clutch engaged prematurely). The P0768 code is detected when the gear required by the ECM does not match the actual gear when vehicle is driven. Possible causes Low transmission fluid level Dirty transmission fluid Faulty shift solenoid 'D' valve Shift solenoid 'D' valve harness or connectors Shift solenoid 'D' valve circuit is open or shorted

it looks like the 98 impreza is a 2.5 RS automatic. If I get a 95 2.2 automatic, they should both be egr. Won't the 2.5 have dual port exhaust as well?

I am thinking this should be a clean swap, but just want to confirm as I have never done one.

2014 Transmission Assembly Subaru Forester RIV,RG,PAN GOOD 19,345 A $F07596 $790 LKQ-Keystone- Foster Auto Parts USA-OR(Portland) Request_Quote 1-888-578-5548 Request_Insurance_Quote If it is toast, I used car-part.com to find this one

I have a green legacy hood for a 2000 wagon and am in Milwaukee.

How many miles are on it and what model is it? Cloth or leather etc. I would go to edmunds, price it up in average or good, whatever it is, and then price up a motor with headgasket and timing belt parts and labor and see if you want ot repair it or not.

Mine just did the same. A Phillips screw driver tightening the fuel line clamps took car of it.

I would find a car with a low miles engine with a bad body or bad trans and that way you can hear the engine run or even drive it. Then pull the engine and part out the donor car to pick up some cash to reduce the cost of the engine. Fenders, doors, tires, battery etc. Keep some parts that you may need, but the 2.5 will be better than the 2.0 with an automatic and an easier swap.

lots of people have put a 95 2.2 in a 98 forester. perfect swap for a bad 2.5 That is what i think he meant. 2000-2005 outback have a great tank like feel. interiors 2005 and newer a little more plastic and lighter on the fee in IMHO. Like the h6 engine. Lots of fun and more ponies in the mountains. parts are more expensive for it though. I would find a newer nicer outback at 7-10K or a project 2000-2004 with a bad motor or trans and put in a new lower mileage engine and or trans, do everything it needs and go look for some snow drifts. LOL.

I read this on another subaru board. You have done some of this already. could be a bad rear o2 sensor, basically that sensor deals with emissions. it's not saying that the catalyst efficiency is below normal which is common, it's saying there's raw fuel there. so, guesses ... leaking inj, improperly adjusted exhaust valve, failing rear o2 sensor. try some injector cleaner [in the tank], make sure the rear o2 sensor connector is secure. this may sound goofy but make sure the gas cap is on correctly and tight, this isn't a typical loose gas cap code but you never know. generally evap codes take a long time to clear with no recurring problems [anywhere from 50- 300 miles]

Thanks. That would be a lot easier.

agreed. That motor sounds like it is done for.

I heard many of the JDM engines have low miles but spend their lives in bumper to bumper traffic. They are low miles but can be very tired. Anyone else have any real experience with them? you can also look at car-part.com

I have a couple of used starters in my parts collection if you want to PM me and we can work it out cost and shipping with you. They are both for an automatic though and I think it matters.

GD, The fuse block and battery terminal is gone . I was going directly to the door wiring that comes from the door and goes through the front opening and goes towards the drivers side fuse panel. I was going to just disconnect the electric cable and feed the blue red which is up and down.

I removed the engine and trans from this parts car and screwed up by leaving the drivers door window down. With the wiring and battery mostly removed, I was wondering if I can just take a battery jump pack and provide power and ground to the wiring harness of the door and raise the window over winter. Any ideas if this would work?

My friends son just had a timing belt snap and probably has bent valves. Are the heads interchangeable with a 2000-2004 2.5 outback or forester? How about short blocks out of compatible years as well? Car-part is giving me only foresters of the same year.

If no Check engine lights for a temp sensor or black wet sputtering exhaust, then ditto on the fuel clamps.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm Try this

my old 96 did the same thing and when I replaced the temp sensor all was well.

I have bought after market ones and put them on and it has been fine. If I do that, I usually them in pairs and then the vibration at idle of having one oem and one replacement doesn't seem to occur.