3Pin

Thanks very much. They look the same and both have EGR's. I will look closer at the block and see if they are both EJ251's. But for sure you say the intakes needs to stay with the car.

I have a quick question for you all. I have a 2003 2.5 outback automatic trans with a bad motor. I also picked up a 2001 2.5 Outback motor with an automatic trans that has a nice running motor but a rusty body. I was going to swap the 2001 into the 2003, but I hear it is not an exact swap. Can someone help what what is different? I have read that the cam and crank sprockets are not the same and that possibly some sensors need to be swapped for the 03 motor? Anyone? I have the motor out of the 2003 already.

I know the engine is the same, Am I just taking the from the original car or is there more?

Thanks everybody!

Have a good 2000 motor and found a outback body with a bad motor and good trans. Will this be an easy swap?

Glad it is running again. Nipper, I hope you are doing better.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/5430181565.html

How much were they asking for the car?

I have a Interstate 4x6 covered trailer that I bought for $500. We load Kayaks on top and lock all the rest of the gear and food inside which keeps the kritters out of our stuff.

Had a Tribeca....not the best car Subaru has ever made. Bad mileage, poor HP if the 3.0. Limited productions so parts are not as easy to come by later. Outbacks are a good bet for your size family.

It could be an air bubble in the cooling system. Put the car on some ramps and burp the radiator to see if you have air in the cooling system. Certainly worth a try. Replace the temp sensor if it keeps throwing the code also.

To get at the duty c, it is in the back of the trans with separate bolts. exhaust off etc,you get the picture. You can replace the duty c but I would replace the clutch pack while you are in there. the parts are cheap compared with the labor to do that job twice.

16 AT oil flashes usually indicates a bad duty c solenoid. Have you tried putting the old TPS back in or even taking it back and getting a different TPS?

My bet is that if the bulb is removed, the mil will stay on.

Here is the answer, the POS PO took out several bulbs from the dash, ABS, check engine etc and sold it to an unsuspecting young girl who experienced all sorts of issues and sold it to me for damn near nothing. So the light was on due to a couple of minor issues that were easy to fix, but he ripped her off. I feel bad for her. When I put the bulbs back in, replaced the knock sensor the MIL on turned off. All is good now. Just for future reference, after resetting the check engine light, it should tun off the MIL via the reader as well.

I am not checking it with the engine running. I will. Thanks for the reply. I don't ever remember seeing the status mil on before like this though.

the p0136 was an o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. neither has come back and I am up to about 50 miles now but still need to weld up the exhaust leak from the trans swap. It looks like 4 screws to replace a bulb behind the dashboard. Is that right? I saw a YouTube of a guy who removed the steering wheel to get at the dash. Is that necessary?

Thanks everybody for the replies. Codes were clear, but mil was on before new trans. I could tell the MIL was on via my OBII reader only. Drove it very little cuz trans was eating itself up as I drove. Got to the shop though. Put in new trans, 16 at flashes.....great. Swapped the duty c and clutch pack from orig trans and now it drives good and runs good. Drove it 20 miles today, but it has an exhaust leak from the trans work. Exhaust will get fixed tomorrow as well as some new front rotors & pads. After the exhaust repair, I will test it again and see it if the MIL on clears or is able to turn off. The bulb does not illuminate at start. Is it hard to replace the CEL bulb or put one in after the previous owner possibly took it out? PW

I am stumped. I had a P0325 and a P0136 upon first read. Cleared the codes and still have a mil on based on my reader, but no codes. The check engine light on the dash is not illuminated. It might be a burned out or removed bulb by the previous owner. Anyone have any ideas? The engine is a 2.2 auto trans. Just replaced the trans. Car has about 135K on it. I tried to turn off the mil via a reader, didn't even restart the car and the mil is still on. Bad ground maybe?

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just use a 2.5 USA intake? I got a spare if you are interested?

I just got my email as well last Friday. Cool program. The should add some stickers to the swag area.

What year 2.2 did you put in?

I have had a 02 LL Bean for 6 years. Nice ride. I would bring some coolant and go back & drive it again.Before starting it, check the radiator and the overflow tank to make sure there is sufficient coolant in each. See if it starts right up this time. Almost sounds like it needs a thermostat otherwise. Make sure you get no bubbles in teh overflow coolant tank after it is good and warm. Ditto on the rest of the comments. I would offer $2400.00 if it all checks out.

I have a 98 2.5 with 180K runs good with fresh head gaskets. It would be a simple swap. $500 for the motor.

Go to car-part.com and locate a motor that is close to you. I have bought 3 or so from different junk yards and had pretty good luck. The guys that are able to answer the basic questions and can ship if needed are generally the better ones. Ask for a 60 day warranty at least.