3Pin

LOL. Too Funny!

I vote for a 95 wagon FWD or AWD. Better mileage with FWD, better traction with AWD. You get OBDII, the better 2.2 engine, auto or manual trans is good. That year 2.2 is non-interence motor. You should be able to find one or even 92-94 wagon same spec's would be good. If you update your location, then we know if you get snow or not. Good luck!

How about sell the donor 95 2.2 and buy a phase II motor with the $$?

Might be power steering fluid. Sometimes a leaky power steering hose can spill on the top of the motor.

I bought the NGK BKR6E-11 V power plugs and then OEM wires. The OEM wires I got from the dealer. I just told them I could get them for $30 on line and they reduced the price accordingly from $42.00. Didn't want to mess around with off-brand and then have to buy OEM anyways. I based it off what others said on the site as I have had pretty good luck with the info here. My 2 cents

Just did a 95 2.2 transplant into a 98 outback stick. Things went pretty well, but was getting P0303,P0420 and temp sensor errors also. replaced the temp sensor and the P0420 and the temp sensor error stopped, but P0303 hung around intermittantly for like two weeks. Engine was running a little rough, but not bad. Put new NGK plugs and OEM wires based on what I read here and holy smokes---what a difference! RPM's lower in all gears, totally smoother running engine and much faster all around. I thought I was going to have to swap an injector or worse. Amazed at the difference!!!!

I saw a thread just recently on bad axle boots that end up heating up the axles once they loose grease and then the car behaves like that. Maybe check the boots just for kicks.

Or you could search car-part.com for a motor that doesn't knock.

Here is a video of a 97. Awesome!! :Flame::Flame:

Check the battery. Mind did that when the battery was close to the end of its life.

I have a radiator from a 1997 outback manual for $25.00 plus shipping.

Thanks guys for the commnets, I appreciate it. Good question Miles,I have sold or parted all of the stuff I have so it looks like I will do the contact deal or just put in the replacement starter. If I go new, my wholesale parts guy wants the core back, so I can't keep the spare to repair. On the P0420, I turned it off and it hasn't gone back on, but my mileage went from 21 to 18 on the last tank, so I think that tha that I have lazy front O2 sensor. I think I will try some sea foam first.

I can get a brand new replacement starter for $80.00, but will look into the relay thread and see if that makes more sense. Thanks

It has been fine all day today. I think I will clean up the terminals real good and go from there. No codes at all until today.....when I was driving for 40 minutes on the highway at about 1800-2000 rpm, 40-50 MPH in 5th in a snow storm. It blew an PO420 which is catalyst efficicency below threshold bank one. I turned it off and will see if it comes back with normal highway driving. If I have a no start, and then tap on the starter, I assume a starter is in my future.

I have a 98 outback stick, with 179K that just got a 2.2 transplant. I have been driving it for a week or more with no issues. This AM, I went to start it and nothing. It wouldn't turn over, but I had electric windows, fan, dome light, lights on dash. Jumped it nothing. Finally had to have it towed to my mechanic. Later, it started right up for them. They check it all over and nothing out of the ordinary. Temp was 35 this AM which is kinda warm for this time of year. It has started easily in colder temps recently and the battery checks out under a load. Any ideas? Maybe the starter is getting tired? Any thoughts are appreciated. Don't want to get stranded.

How many miles on the car and motor? What kind of shape is the car in? If the car is in decent shape, I would pluck the motor and either fix it or put a different one in. Probably cheaper to just fix the one you have if it has under 200K. I bought a 2000 last year with 215 K on it for $550 and it had a kaput motor. I just bought a different one as the original one was roached and my kid is still driving it. my 2 cents

Don't take this wrong and I don't want to sound like a wongleflute ,but I sure would be bitter if I bought it at auction for $2800 and then had to stick a grand or more into it. Selling to to some other subaru lover to get your dough out of it with full disclosure would make me sleep better at night. Just my 2 cents

You need the right thermostat for sure, but the fact that it was not in there in the first place is really suspicious don't you think?

16.9 U.S. gallon tank capacity

Is the movement you refer to in your overflow tank possibly bubbles coming from the radiator? If it is, it is a HG problem. Have you flushed the radiator at all? It almost sounds like you have a clog somewhere.

6.1 quarts on my 3.0 2002 OB LL Bean. 5W-30 when it is icy cold and 10W-30 or 10W-40 in the summer.

Man, it seems like you have covered the bases. Would older leaky fuel injectors cause this? http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp There are a couple other possibilites in this article. Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback. The higher RPM doesn't concern me too much, but I wanted to make that others had the same experience. I got about 22 MPG on my first tank of gas and that was all city except for about 90 miles, so on the whole that isn't bad.

I just put a 19995 2.2 into a 1998 OB 5 speed. So far so good. Just curious, what RPM are you at cruising on the interstate at about 70 in 5th gear? Just curious. Mine seems to be at about 3100-3200. My 2000 and 2002 both run at about 2600-2700 RPM at the same speed.

If your alarm is flashing 3 times with the car off, you are in the valet mode. To get out of the valet mode, open your door and keep your unlock button depressed for more than two seconds.