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Everything posted by 3Pin
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I looked at the pictures thanks. Let me give you some background and then ask for advice. I picked this car up Monday from a guy who had a friend who did a Timing belt for him. You can guess the rest. He did drop it off running around 20 MPH to a mechanic who said that it looks like a bad harmonic balancer and a bad keyway. I want to see if the darn thing runs before I pluck it and do a bunch of work on it. The crank shaft is facing down so it is hard to see, the Harmonic Balancer,pulley definately is jangeld up near the notch. It looks more like a v than an slot on the pulley. The rest looks OK. I was going to have the mechanic put it back together to see if the valves and crankshaft aren't toast. Is this possible and the best way to go?
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Use Advance auto in Milwaukee. I have done 6 engine tranplants with them so far. I have another one there now. 35th and state 414-342-3407 ask for Tony. When you do the swap, reseal the engine, do the water pump, timing belt cam seal, reseal oil pump etc. There's a complete list that you can search here of to do items if you want to keep it for a while. Obviously, It's easy to do it while it is out of the car.
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Guys, after looking hard at the 2.2 in my new 99 legacy wagon, I think I am going to take back my statement that it is a gen 1. I think it is a gen II 2.2. Here is some info from end wrench that reinforces my thoughts. To the best of my knowledge, It looks like I can still drop in the 97, but it looks like it is gen II. The coil pack and valve covers look different than the 2.2's I have had in the past. For Legacy's: All 2.2 liter engine for 1999 are the Phase 2 design. The 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are a SOHC design, with a newly-designed cylinder head. Changes in the 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are as follows: The engine and transmission are fastened with six bolts and two studs. The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position. The oil groove in the number 1 and 3 have been changed to supply additional lubrication to the crank journal. Additional Phase 2 Engine Features The cylinder head is a two-rocker shaft, solid type valve system with roller followers. The valves are positioned at a larger angle than previous model years. The intake valves are positioned 23 degrees off-center with the exhaust valves positioned 20 degrees off-center. Prior model year engines utilized a 15-degree positioning angle. Head gasket thickness is 0.7 mm (0.0 in). The intake rocker arms are marked so they are correctly placed on the rocker shaft when servicing. An IN1 or IN2 will be embossed on each rocker arm. As viewed from the front of the engine the Number 1 intake valve of ach cylinder and the number 2 intake valve have an IN1 marked and IN2 arked rocker arm that mates with it. New IN1 rocker arms can also be identified by a Green painted mark on the top of the rocker arm. The IN2 rocker arms have a white mark. Proper positioning is maintained through the use of a wave washer located between the rocker shaft arm and rocker arm shaft support. The camshaft is secured to the cylinder head with the camcase. An oil passage in the cylinder head provides the passageway in the camcase with oil that leads to the intake rocker shaft. Oil from the camshaft is collected on the opposite side of the passageway leading to the intake rocker shaft to provide oil to the exhaust rocker shaft. Note: Cylinder head and camcase must be replaced together (line bored). The sparkplug pipe is pressed into the cylinder head and is not serviceable. If it becomes damaged the cylinder head must be replaced. The seals installed onto the ends of the sparkplug pipes seal against the valve covers and should be replaced when the valve cover is removed. Pistons on the 2.2 liter engines have a 0.5 mm (0.0 in) offset with the engine having a compression ratio of 10.0 to 1. The horsepower has increased to 142 hp (106 kW) @ 5600 rpm. Maximum torque is 149 lb·ft (202 N·m) @ 3600 rpm. Camshaft sprockets are constructed of a resin type material with a metal key pressed into the sprocket for maintaining proper sprocket to shaft orientation. Can anyone else confirm or deny this to be accurate?
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Ditto on the last comment. I have a friend in MIlwaukee who has a good 2.5 of your era. Another friend of mine is looking to fix a 98 forester stick with a bad 2.5. It might a better match all around. How do you want for your 96 motor? I think the only other issue you might have is the EGR. Auto's have em, stick's don't.
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94 2.2 PS pump?
3Pin replied to Suba9792's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I have one from a 95 legacy. Cheap plus shipping. I will look in the garage and see if it has the bracket. If not, easy to get. -
I bought a 2000 with 212K last spring with a bad motor (really a motor that had not been properly maintained) and replaced it with a newer lower mile motor. Car is great -- wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. If the engine is strong, then I would do a timing belt and all of the pulleys and tenioner etc,water pump, belts, change the fluid in the trans etc just to be on the safe side. I got mine for $550, but it wasn't running obviously.
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Thanks for the response Nipper. The donor engine started right up and ran well and did not smoke in donor car. The engine does not smoke any longer at start up or running. I think the reason it smoked so bad after the engine swap was that the previous engine was burning oil like a pig and for quite a while. When we pulled th eold 2.5 out of the car, the cyclinders on the right side were showing signs of lots of oil consumption. With the new engine in, it smoked for 30-45 minutes until it stopped. I think that I agree with you though, either bad temp sensor or bad wiring to the sensor. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps a fuel or timing problem. Any else have an idea. This car has been in the shop forever.
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Here is an update: rechecked the timing belt -installed new belt- no change dropped some injector cleaner in and a fresh tank of gas -no change. Once car starts and is warm, runs great swapped temp sensors from another motor- no change ordered a new one to try tomorrow just for kicks swapped injectors from another motor-no change installed different ECU- no change will install a different know working coil just to see if that helps Fortunatley, I have lots of free or cheap parts lying around, but this is getting old. I am open to ideas here. Anyone got any ideas what to try next. My mechanic is ready to throw his hands up on this one and he has never not been able to fix a subaru for me.
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Hard Start
3Pin replied to Sundance's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Bump, Sundance, you out there.