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I agree with grossgary. Don't stretch youself. Pay cash for a lesser car and save your money or invest it. New cars are not an investment, it is an expense that depreciates immediately as you drive off the lot. Granted it is a great ride off the lot and for the next year or so, but you lose at least 20% of the value right away. I haven't bought a new car for myself since 94. I try to buy something that has been taken care of or I buy a real cheapie that looks good, but needs a HG job or something most people don't want to tackle. Drive it as long as it makes sense, then sell it and move up the food chain.

...so just one bottle per HG job then?

Thanks Backwoodsboy.

I am in the process of installing a lower mileage 2000 2.5 into my 2000 Outback. We are doing all new HG gaskets, Water pump, tensioners seals etc. When I refill the radiator, should I put in that speciall additive or do I not need it since we are doing new OEM Head gaskets?

wannaubaru, Good for you! You just saved 3,000 dollars by following your gut. I like to keep a transaction like this competive and businesslike, but in the end friendly. You may need a loaner car at some time or a favor in the future and if you act like a wongleflute, they will remember if it is a smaller dealer. Work the numbers pretty hard and possibly work the final two against each other. You might say, dealer one has offered me the subaru for $1000 less than you, can you match that? Give them a date you are going to make a decison so they have a short end in sight and then try to stick with it . Definately check out service and service policies before buying, although you can take your new subaru to any subaru dealer you want for standard post warranty work. Good luck!

Subaru makes great stuff----Welcome! when it comes to business, my friend always says "Everything is negotiable"! Take your time and research the one you want and when you want to buy. 09 is a good time to buy a new car in general ........but there will always be another rebate so don't let them sucker punch you. You probably know, but end of the month, end of the quarter is always good for you. Use those to your advantadge. Good luck and welcome to USMB

Seemed kind of pricey to me. You can pick up one like that around here for $1400-1500

I bought a 200 OB with bad heads recently. Car has 215K on it and after weighing my options, I sold the old 2.5 and bought a 2.5 with 102K on it. While the new one is out, I was going to do the water pump, timing belt, complete engine overhaul gasket set from subaru, and all of the timing belt pulleys and bearings. I think the cam and crank o rings come with the overhaul kit, but not sure? Do I run into the same plastic seperator on the 2000's as I ran into on the phase I's? Anything else you guys would suggest while she is out of the car? Motor goes back in tomorrow. Thanks

Good for you! I was hoping mine didn't bend, but they did. The car was moving down the road at 75 pretty good though.

Thanks guys. I didn't think so.

Will a 2000 Automatic Phase II 2.5 install clean in a 97 OB with an original Phase I 2.5 motor?

Wouldn't this be great question for Emily at CCR! I would like to know if 2.5 SOHC heads from 99's -04 are interchangeable.

So the valves are bent for sure. I will either put new heads on the existing motor or will put in a new motor. I can get some heads from a 2.5 99 SOHC motor. Will those just bolt on after clean up and any bench work?

I think so. I can check the one on my forester at the office tomororow.

From what I heard, The little filter wicks moisure so the sensor on the strut tower doesn't get damaged from the condensation in the vacuume lines and freeze in cold climates. I had one go on me and it was pricey. $7.00 is a cheap inventment.

I have an 02 H6 LL Bean and it is really fun to drive. My favorite Subbie so far. Real smooth, decent mileage compared with the H4 I bought mine with 62K about 2 years ago for upper about 10K. I use mid grade gas all of the time. Not much extra in my mind versus regular 87 octane. I would be a bit concerned with the t-bone. A good frame guy might be able to confirm if it was put back together right. Maybe not. I would look at the tires also and see if there are any signs of uneven wear. If brand spanking new tires are on it, I would be a little cautious. Good luck with your search!

Would any 2000-2004 2.5 transplant work? Also will heads from a 98 or 99 2.5 work on a 2000 2.5?

I would take it to a place that can read the codes and then you have something to work with. When I had a flashing check engine it was usually is a misfire when it was real wet here. I unplugged a spark wire or two and plugged them back and it would go away. Soemtimes a plug wire or coil is bad. I have seen others say to replace only with OEM wires also. Good luck!

Great idea. I will my mechanic try that. I use an local independant suby shop and I am sure they will try all the cheap easy stuff fisrt. I bring them lots of business and the have treated me well over the years. Thank god this suby isn't green. That would be my fourth green one.

Thanks for your 2 cents. I have always pulled the engines in the past (1) 95, 96(2) 1 98 Forester for HG work, any chance it is possible to leave the engine in for head work with a 2000?

Just Bought a 2000 Outback (automatic)with the original 2.5 SOHC engine. Car has 212,000 miles and recently one of the pulleys near the Timing belt broke at 75mph and now the car won't start. The genereral concunsus is that the valves are shot and potentially some pistons as well. I have not picked it up yet, so do not know, but I am looking for opinions on whether I just pluck the engine and replace it or repair the existing one if the pistons aren't blown to bits. If I do replace the engine, do I have any easy direct 2.2 options like the 95 2.2 auto was for the 96-99 Gen 1's. I did a couple of those and they worked out nice. Does anyone have a matrix or list of which 2.2 and 2.5's would be an easy transplant for this 2000 OB automatic so I have more options than the 2000 2.5?

It is a solid motor. I have a 02 LL Bean and it is a blast to drive. Way more fun that my last 3 wagons and my Forester. There are some recent threads on the idler bearing and one other front bearing that has been going at about 75K and that has been about. The bearing issue is a cheap fix though and that is all I have seen so far. :grin:

On the flip side, if you can afford it, go for it. A new car is always a blast!!! I am sure one of the gang here would relieve you of your old ride. Good luck with the decison.

U bet. This was a real bummer! I was looking forward to having a remote again. Hopefully others will not have to endure this crap!!

I recently ordered a remote key for my 98 Forester. They took my money and sent no remote. This is business as usual for them. After looking them up on the internet, and reviewing the Arizona BBB, I see that they just suck as a company. Heads up folks, don't buy from them. I will get my $ back, but this is my first bad internet buying expereince in 10 years. BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad::mad::mad: