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that just stinks!

Imdew, thanks, there is a 97 automatic that my mechanic is going to scrap after this one gets back on the road. Going to pick the shifter, cable, inhibitor switch off that one first. If that falls through, I will PM you. 95-97 are all the same.

I should load up a truck with MW 2.5's , make a road trip and make some $$. Or buy a car out there, ship an engine already overhauled here, have it installed and drive home. LOL

Dang GD. That is a pretty penny for an engine. Here in the rust belt, the cars crumble before the engine dies often.

the cost of the engine, parts $350 and $1000-$1500 on labor.

My 2 cents. I agree with GD that there is nothing like a new engine from Subaru, but you might not need to buy a brand new block. I buy lower mileage 2.5's for anywhere from 500-$750 and then do HG, Water pump, idlers, cam o rings, timing, the works when it is out of the car. I like to her it run and prefer buying a car that was in a rear wreck so I know it was a runner. You don't say if it is automatic or stick. If it is stick, obviously do a clutch when it is easy. Obviously, if your engine has been overheated , that is bad and I wouldn't bother rebuilding that one. But you might consider one with bad heads and reuse your heads for example to bring the price down a bit of the motor. Best of luck either way you go!

Thanks Dave

Rescued a 1995 subaru legacy wagon awd automatic last week. Started and ran at first, but wouldn't shift out of park. Thought I could just take off the auto shifter face plate and use the old screwdriver in the bypass hole , but no such luck. Shifter moves when I press down on saftey switch, but doesn't really seem to shift gears. Car won't start now after the tow and I think it was the final straw for the shift cable or the shift inhibitor switch. Any thoughts on how to get it out of gear?

Just my 2 cents, I am not a fan of the seafoam thing. I know others have had positive results in some cases, but I will clean the intake with some spray and that is about it. Others can comment with their own experiences. On the at oil flash, It is flashing with a pattern or a steady flash? Was it doing it before the seafoam treatment? Check to make sure all of the tires are the same size, brand and air pressure. Check the trans fluid level and do a couple of drain and fills before you look at whether it is the duty c solenoid. Good luck with the really low mile find as well.

I just swap in a new (used) assembly. They are cheap and available.

Best of the luck with the install . Maybe have her help! That way she can catch the bug too. LOL

I have a 95 radio and it is all yours for free if you pay for shipping. You can just add one of those cassette converters or an fm converter for an ipod or player. Nice easy snap in.

Sounds to me like he is a flipper. Buy a car cheap, put a little $ into it flip it. No record of the sale, he doesn't register or pay taxes. Feels like a weird transaction at this distance to me. I agree with msmithmmx, you need a test drive and long enough to get it good an up to temp. I also think you should take it to a mechanic you trust and put it up in the air. Rear sub frame can be in a problem in ice/snow salt country, axles, wheel bearings, check it all. Head gaskets & rear main for sure need to be checked. Steering rack if it is leaking is a pain in the rump roast to swap out for a new one. When was the timing belt done last. You seem pretty knowledgeable and sound like you can do lots yourself, but you don't want to be upside down on this one. Do all the windows, ac work, Cruise control.....HEATED SEATS IMPORTANT!!!!! LOL You get the idea.

I would not avoid the 2000-2007 outbacks. Buy one that is automatic if you want and one that has a leaky head gasket for the right price. Then pluck the motor, do the head gasket, timing belt routine and move on down the road. I pick them up routinely for under $750 and either put in a new engine or do the head gasket if the miles are decent and the engine runs well and there is decent service history on the vehicle. My 2 cents

looks like the subie doctor is pretty good too. How about some locals chime in for a personal favorite in Denver? The Subie Doctor The Subie Doctor, 824 E 78th Ave, Denver, CO 80229 720-222-5022

Strictly Automotive Website Directions Save 4.544 Google reviews Auto repair shop in Denver, Colorado Address: 804 W 10th Ave, Denver, CO 80204 303-436-1700 Hours: Closed ⋅ Opens 7:30AM Tue Searched the web and car talk mechanics files. Nice Subaru reviews on car talk Phone: (303) 436-1700

I suppose. I reread the procedure and doing it the right way is not that hard.

Mike, that is a fair amount of work. Wouldn't a guy just try to adjust ever so slightly and get back to working well.

yup, what John said.

Find a decent used 2000-2004 2.5 engine and make yourself a car out of the unit with a bad engine. That 2.2 would fit nice in a 96-99 outback or a 98 forester and up the resale of one of those older units if you can find one by you that is not too rusty.

10-4. Thanks

GD, if you replace the HG with the new design on a 09-02, are they leak only oil after that?

Don't do it. It will be a royal mess. Sell the harness and engine to volkswagon guy looking to do a swap. Source an engine for the forester instead. Much easier IMHO.

The block is the same for your 05 for 2.5's from 00-04. You can use your intake from the 05 on the 00-04 block. I think Timing gears from the 05 as well. Others can chime in on exact details. The block you have can be reused on other 90's cars obviously. best of luck. I think you have to mcgiver the pcv on the 00-01 of you are using it on a newer car.

go to car-part.com and you will be able to search for a transmission that will fit your car and be close to you.