ANIM_Hooneru

Gday Stallone, If it is the Panasonic or Hitachi MJS style compressor iirc the original mineral oil was Suniso 5GS which has an ISO viscosity rating of 100. So you will want PAG100 oil to put in. As for quantity (also going off memory because I can't find my book) I believe it was 120ml from empty. Its strange that a new compressor didn't come with new oil in it already. Hope this helps.

Hey Fellas, Gotta admit its been something like 12 months since I have been online here and my Brumby conversion hasn't moved much further along then it was last time... Lack of progress aside I can give some advice, for mine I used the standard Brass/Copper radiator bolted up as normal. I am not running power steering or air conditioning at this time so my cooling fan is on the engine side of the radiator, towards the drivers side. There's not much clearance between it and the crank pulley but I think it will be ok. It has been a hell of a long time since I bought my hoses so I don't know what the part numbers were now however they were made by Mackay and they were a heavy canvas lined hose that was bendable and with different sized ends, 32mm and 38mm if I remember right. Here's a link to a PDF from the Mackay website that has the hoses I am talking about. https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/17eaaa_6a4ab92c8a7847c6905c997db207e796.pdf If I get a chance this weekend I might actually do the 80km trek to the shed where its pulled apart and grab some photos for you.

Gday Hiller, One of my mates uses hand controls on his cars due to his disability. He has a condition known as Sacral Agenesis/Caudal Regresion which has resulted in him being only fully formed to the bottom of his torso, with very small and malformed legs and feet which are fused together. Over here in Australia if you use hand controls to legally drive on the road you have to have an automatic and "registered" controls that have been installed by a certified engineer. When Luke bought a new car and had his hand controls removed from his BA Ford Falcon and put into his VE Holden Commodore it cost him $400 (from memory) to have them swapped and recertified...so look into the costs involved first and factor that into your budget. I think his controls cost about $1000 when they were new however they can be changed from car to car. I will get onto Luke and get him to send me some pictures of how his controls work. He has a twin lever setup that runs to a single bar that runs 90° to the steering column. When he pushes it towards the pedals (away from him) its on the gas and when he pushes it towards the floor its on the brakes. His controls made it so you had to get completely of the accelerator before you could brake. I'm not sure about the legality of the style hand controls you talk about. I imagine you could rig something up similar to a slot car controller maybe for the throttle, it should in theory give a linier throttle signal you could use opposed to using a tps...if it was an engine that had the stepper motor to run the throttle body. it would really depend on what engine and box and ecu combination you went with. An aftermarket ecu such as a Link, Haltech, Motec etc would be the way to go because you can pretty well set up tolleranes and signals according to the modified setup you are going to have to design, rather then design your modified setup around the tollerences and sensor signals the stock ecu is going to be expecting. For the brakes to run off of a hand control you would probably need to use a hydraulic system like off a motorbike clutch to actuate the pushrod that would drive the brake master cylimder. Luke runs a Speedway car here and all we have in terms of hand controls for it is a thumb throttle lever on the steering wheel and the throttle cable is wrapped about the column. It also has a 2:1 "quicksteer" reduction on the column to halve the rotation he has to do to go lock to lock. For the brakes he has a big lever beside the wheel that runs off a pivot and hits the brake pedal for him. For the clutch we have a motorbike hydraulic setup with a lever attached to the actual shifter...it has its own vaccumn assisted brake booster sitting on the passenger floor to make it easy enough for him to clutch left handed. Mind you...thats a speedway car. I doubt that sorta stuff would fly in a road regestered car. The best advice I could give, work out what you want to do engine wise, draft a budget, and go from there. The EJ engine swap process can be a bitch and can easily go way over the time and money you allocate for it...compared to installing a lever system like Luke's road car to an EA81 engine which would a be a piece of cake. I'm sure there would be something on YouTube showing how Lukeys cars are set up...look up Lukey Watt Racing or Wheelzy and there should be something. Hope that helps, shoot me a message if you wanna talk about it more. Looking forward to seeing how this goes.

Thanks for the input fellas...time for an update... Airbox - I have been toying about with a modified Gen 4 Liberty/Legacy airbox and its looking promising that I can make it work. I did try finding a EA82 EFI Airbox but no luck. The only one I could find was an early flapper-style...which I ended up buying anyway as a spare for my 86GLTA Sedan. Another option I have found is an R31 Skyline airbox that fits pretty well...shame about it having NISSAN embossed in it though...next time I'm at where the car is I will take photos to post up. Battery - dependant upon how I go with my airbox situation it will go up in the spare wheel holder or down the side of the enginebay where the jack goes. Thermos - given the heat of summer is now over I may can my A/C plans and set up two 10" pusher fans on the outside of the radiator for now. I would still be interested in seeing a photo of your fan arrangement though Dfoyl. Gbox - I ended up canning the idea of snaring the Liberty/Legacy centre crossmeember in between the original front piece and a custom rear piece and have made a full 3-piece cross member from 2mm thick 1" x 2" RHS. Its in the car at the moment, I'm going to pull it out though and gusset all the pieces for extra strength and paint it, I'll take some photos of the finished product. Another quick question for my own reference, these Liberty CVs are way too long. Given I cannot locate a spare set of Leone Turbo CVS to rip apart and swap the Liberty ends onto, I am going to pay the engineer to shorten the Liberty shafts. Does anyone have a bare 25 Spline Leone/Loyale shaft laying about they can measure for me?

YnotDIY, That picture you put up is an earlier radiator to suit the Gen 2/"MY" platform. That's in the Wagons, Hatches and Coupes made from '80-ish through to when the the Gen 3 Loyale/Leone came out in '85. That radiator continued to be used in the Brumby/Brat untill they were phased out in about '92. Think of it as an EA71/EA81 radiator. Also they are a Brass-copper unit as opposed to an aluminium-plastic one that's in the Gen 3s. The filler off to the side there is a bit strange hey, theres no other way to describe it in my opinion other than an outright terrible idea as it actually sits lower than the water crossover passage that runs up the middle of the manifold. EA81s have a small water bleed screw that you need to open up when your trying to bleed the system or else you'll never get rid of the air bubble in the manifold. I'm glad they changed it for the Gen 3s.

Gday guys, I am in the final stages of finishing off my EJ22 swap before it goes for a trip to the engineers, however there are a few odds and ends I want some opinions on...The big rig is a 1992 Brumby with a 1992 Liberty EJ22 and matching AWD5sp. 1st up, Does anyone have recommendations of an Factory Air Box that fits the Brumbys engine bay? I have a first gen liberty one at the moment, however nomatter where I put it it just doesn't quite fit right. The only place I can find that it fits is where the battery normally sits (Australian model) on the drivers side, and even then it sorta sticks up a bit high to have the bonnet sit down properly. I really wanna avoid chuckin a pod on it if I can avoid it. 2nd, The battery. If I do end up finding and using a smaller factory air box, and I end up mounting it on the Driver Side, I was considering moving the battery to the Passenger side of the engine bay. I'd have to drill the spot welds out of the jack holster and remove it, but I rekon it would fit nicely. Has anyone done this before? 3rd, Thermofans. Has anyone got a recommendation for slimline fans between the motor and radiator? Or does everyone just install two on the outside and set up as pushers? 4th, The gearbox. At the moment, its held up by some flat bar in a pretty pissweak sorta saddle/cross-member that goes back to the chassis, and forwards to the plates that the radius rods bolt to. I would like to make a better member for it before I take it to the engineers. I was contemplating using the centre cross-member from the Liberty, bolted through the original Brumby cross-member at the front and bolted up to box section across the tunnel at the rear. I think if I do this though I will have to space the swaybar down to avoid it contacting the centre crossmember and maybe even cut a notch out of one side to get it to clear past the swaybar hump. Do you guys run a different swaybar? Do you think this centre crossmember idea will work ok? Thanks in advance guys.

Gday Mr Loyale, Yes, that connector is what you need. Commonly referred to by Auto Electricians as QC2's. You want the 'male' side that has the tab and takes the female crimp terminals. Quickcrimp and Narva both make them in a Blister Pack that contains both halves, ie a male and female QC2 plus two male terminals and two female terminals (dunno if you get those brands over there in the States) that you should be able to pick up from your local auto parts store or 24hr servos sometimes keep them. There are other bits of the car where you could theoretically steal that bit from, indicators and park lights use them on the Leones, as does the Alternator and Washer Bottle motor. From memory every Blower Motor I have messed with in my 6 years of being an Auto Sparky has used the same 2 pin connector...so yeah there's a few options there. If you do decide to go with a new connector, they are a bit tricky to crimp those gold terminals if you haven't done so before. If you have a standard set of Automotive Crimpers/Wire Strippers you should have the right tool for doing it with. The three segments in between the bit where you have your red/blue/yellow crimpers and your wire strippers are the segments used for crimping those terminals. Let us know how you get on, Regards, Owen.

Received my hubs today, hoping to have them fitted up Wednesday arvo. I will post photos and I am super stoked. If you make a 2nd run I will grab another pair as I am contemplating getting GC8 running gear under my old Leone. Thanks heaps Dean!!

MR_Loyale, I don't know what they refer to the standard before SSM as, however I have an old 1992 OTC Scantool here I use occasionally at the workshop and I have been having a look at how it is set up in the Operations manual. According to the handbook, Pre-88 Leone and XT/Vortex use a single communications line that must transmit and receive on the same line I guess (?) which is terminal #7 at the 17 pin diagnostics plug near the Brake Booster. However after 88 it refers to using the same 9-Pin SSM Style connector plug for "88-90 Leone, 88-90 XT/Vortex, 89-91 Liberty", so maybe, just maybe, using that same RS232 setup you might be able to go into a late-ish model ECU. (Well, late Leone anyway) I can get you pictures if you wanna take a looksie anyway.

Gday Martin, As Dyfol said, in Australia, when chasing parts refer to it as a L Series or Leone. All engine and suspension/brakes etc parts should in theory be the same between our Australian versions and the American version so as long as you put 1990 and EA82 as your search criteria on Rockauto you should be fine. I see you are in Brisbane, there is a wrecking yard in Wacol that had quite a few Leones when I was there last. In regards to the Seatbelts, I just went out and eyeballed my 86 Leone (L Series Platform) and compared it to my 82 Brumby (MY Series Platform) that's in the shed, they appear to be the same only different colours. So if you go chasing a seat belt assembly at the wreckers, anything from about 1981 through 1994 weather it be a Sedan, Ute or Wagon should be the same (I rekon). As for a workshop book, +1 for a FSM. I had a Haynes book that was good and went into fair detail, however it fell apart. Another Haynes book I bought too fell apart, they just seem to be put together hopelessly. As for the hole in the exhaust, its only in the outer Catalytic Converter casing. Originally it would have had (dunno how to describe it really) this sorta couragated, alfoil-ish looking hose that runs from the Exhaust to the intake. The idea of it was to transfer radiant heat from the Exhaust to heat the Intake air up to make cold running a bit more stable. We don't need it here, so its nothing to stress about.

Hey fellas, What an interesting topic! Its way above my understanding level, but i'm going to be following anyway. MR_Loyale, in regards to a RS232 port, I stumbled upon an interesting site the other day when I was doing some Subaru Select Monitor research for my EJ22 swap. The site is here. http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/protocol.html Also check out the headings "How to build a PC adaptor" and "Eavesdroping" That site covers how to make an RS232 connector to use a PC as a SSM, I would imagine with a bit of creativity and a donor harness you could rig it up to get into an ECU outside of a car, or alternatively find the SSM Plug on the vehicle and use that. I have a 1986 Leone Turbo Auto (Australian edition of course) that I can whip the ECU out of to check out as well. Would be nice to get an archive of numbers and all that.

Gday Tim, Sorry mate i've been offline for about a week, I didn't even consider for a minute that you had the External Regulated alternator, which the wiring is slightly different. I personally havn't had an E/R Alternator on any of my Subarus so I can't give you any insight...can you please take a photo of the wiring arrangement on the External Regulator? As the other fellas here have pointed out, there is a Fuel Pump Saftey system that is built into these cars that relys on an Induced Pulse Signal, from my experience it has been from the Negative side of the Coil, in your situation, it seems to be pulled out of a Phase of the Alternator. I'm pretty sure I have worked it out in my head what needs to be changed, but I want to see the wiring to the E/R first so I can get it right so you don't go cursing my name as you let the smoke out of the wires...

Gday Gadberry, It looks like sometime in the past those relays have been replaced with Bosch Standard Relays. The OEM ones are a metal cased unit. Bosch P/N is 0332019150. You should be able to get replacements at your local auto parts store or an Auto Electrician, or alternatively Ebay or Amazon etc. Let us know how you get on.

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you Dfoyl, I've been without a PC for awhile. Grab me a postage quote to Casino, NSW and work out how much I owe, PM me your Bank Details and i'll fix you up asap.

Aww yes, slate me down for a pair with new studs please Dfoyl. My Brumby will finally be able to be engineered!

I clean forgot Giles did the Tailgate Trims. They look pretty smick on that Red ute of his. I was speaking to him the other week on Facebook, i'm gonna be placing an order for a tailgate and some other bits and pieces very soon. Is Giles even on USMB?

Hey mate, That alternator should have its current rating written on a label on it somewhere, by looking at it I would say its at least 90/100amp and it appears to be a Bosch style unit simalar to what they run on the Transit Vans. Should be a good swap, the Bosch gear is generally Star-Wound which means it charges quite well even at idle speeds. What you need to do is grab your hands on a MIDI Fuseholder and suitable amperage fuse for the output of the unit. The Midi fuses are good because they are high current handling and also the Fuseholders mount flat on a panel, and the cables are bolted down to the fuse, ensuring a good mechanical connection. From the B+ terminal on the back of the Ranger Alternator, run an 8B+S Cable cable to the Midi-Fuseholder, then from the other side of the Midi-Fuseholder to the Battery Terminal on the Starter Motor Solenoid. The S Terminal (Phase) needs to pick up off of one of the Stator Windings, so loop it back to the Phase Terminal as shown in the picture you uploaded. The A Terminal (Sense) needs to be connected to the Positive Battery Terminal, not to the B+ on the back of the Alternator. The A Terminal is a Sense Terminal, and its function is to increase Voltage Output of the Alternator to Compensate for Voltage Drop down the Charge Lead (The cable from the B+ Terminal to the Positive side of the Battery). The IC Regulator won't do its job to full efficiency if you loop it to the B+ terminal, and the result could be a Battery which is undercharged, and with you guys in the Northern Hemisphere coming into Winter, that is something you don't want. Your original Subaru Alternator has a Sense Terminal, labeled as an S. The S Terminal in the 2-pin Plug is the top of the T. So join the "A" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "S" Terminal of the Subaru Plug. The I (Warning Lamp) Terminal needs to go to the Warning Lamp Circuit in the Subaru. The Subaru Alternator also has this in its Factory 2-pin Plug, and it is the Bottom of the T. Join the "I" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "L" Terminal of the Subaru Plug. That should be all there is to it, if you get stuck send me a PM and i'll walk you through it. The hardest thing about the swap will be getting the the Pad Mount Bracketry made right to obtain the correct Pulley spacing. I'm an Auto Electrician by trade however I hate hate HATE fabricating, so good luck to you! Glad its you not me making the brackets! Let us know how you get on!

Hey Dfoyl, Any news on the hubs front?

Anything is repairable mate, just depends on if you have the time, the tools, the workspace, the patience and the skills. In my honest opinion, if it chews out again, you are probably better off finding another FWD 3AT at a wrecking yard and throwing that in. Simply because if you get a clear run at tearing that gearbox down you may have it in pieces for up to two weeks while you get it sorted. Assuming you can find a reduction gear that is right for the box.

Hey Rambo, I had a problem like this with my first Subie, and noone could diagnose it. A 80-something year old Italian bloke who used to own the local dealership was the fella who sorted it for me...ill get to that in a minute...But first... Even though that relay tested ok, (i.e. it pulled in), it could be worn out and not allowing current through pins 30 and 87. My bet would be swap it with another one and see what happens there. If you are confident with your wiring skills, You could even rewire the fuel pump if you believe there is a problem there. If you are concerned about blocked fuel lines (which I haven't come across in one of these) disconnect the line under the bonnet, remove the fuel tank cap and blow the line back to the tank with compressed air. If you have been running fuel with ETHANOL in it, even as low as 10%, I guess you could be facing a blockage as the Ethanol eats the Cadnium coatings off the inside of fuel tanks, and leaves it floating about in there as flakes. As I said, still havn't seen one of these cars with a blocked line yet. It would be good if when it stalls out on you if you knew if you were getting IGNITION power out to the coil. When I was a first year apprentice I had the embarrassing problem of my Leone only starting 30% of the time. It wound out to be the Ignition switch was worn out, meaning when I had the key to START the two contacts were linked, ie I was getting power through the start circuit of the ignition switch to power up the Ignition Coil and the Fuel Pump, however when I released it from START, to RUN, due to the wear and play in the switch, I lost power to my coil and fuel pump and stalled. Checking if you are losing your ignition power when it cuts out on you while driving would be difficult unless you installed an ignition pilot light or something. What I wound up doing was creating a bundle of bridge wires and basically hotwiring my car. If you do the same and your problem disappears, id be looking at tracking down an ignition switch. I drove around in my car like that for months before I found one, however I still had this intermittent stall/no throttle independent of speed regardless of weather I was cruising or going up hills, doing 20kms/h or 110km/h, and the little Italian bloke diagnosed it as Welch Plugs...Basically I had a welch plug that was pretty well rusted through on the Passenger Side, and if you can believe it, occasionally leaking into my rocker cover and filling it with water, and allowing water into the cylinders. Don't ask me how it never hydraulic locked, or suffered in any other way. Ill be damned if I can explain it. When I popped the cover off, it was squeaky clean. When I ripped the head off, it did not have a spot of carbon on it anywhere. The driver side head however was filthy. Hopefully that isn't the case with yours, however it is something to consider if you have a mystery water leak you can't track down as well. Good luck! /endnovel

Oh herro, that's my thread that I had actually forgotten about... For the linkage - Disconnect the link altogether, manually push that lever on the side of the transmition to Park, and set the shifter inside up to Park (get a 2nd person) and lock it back up there if you suspect it may need adjustment. As for the shifting problem, for me it was my Governor Valve, HOWEVER, it wasn't the G.V. itself, it turned out to be the drive gear on the end of it. When I removed it the drive was 'applecored', so like a moron I thought "its got 230000kms on it, probably worn out, she'll be right" and swapped in another gear out of a 3AT FWD I had laying about, not knowing that they are actually different. Took it out for a fang and all seemed ok. Two days and about 230 kms later, same deal. Accelerating up a hill, then nothing. Limped home and inspected the new governor and its chewed out as well. So I decided to do some investigating into what surface the drive gear of the governor runs on. This has the governor valve drive gear that chewed out circled. And this one details the Reduction Gear which the Governor is driven from. Images taken from the parts manual uploaded by Willy Fisterbottom. And this last one is taken from Transmax Australia's catalogue. This is a really good picture that shows the Helix that the Governor is driven off. I still have not gotten around to pulling my gearbox out and tearing it down or else I would upload the photos of whats going on in there. At this stage I can only assume that there is some foreign material or a chipped tooth on that reduction gear. If I were you, id pull the G.V., check it out and clean it, see if the drive gear is applecored. If it is, id be starting to chase another 3AT. Good luck.

Keen as a proverbial bean. I'll put money aside for a set this week. How much do you think each hub would weigh? I am so happy you have gone through with this, this is literally the last thing I needed to do to the old girl before I took it to the engineers to be inspected. I'll get to drive my first Subaru (legally) on the road again!

To be honest Wagonist, I have no idea. I have never seen any crossbred gear apart from that particular kit photo that was on his website.

Well...I went to work, Didn't do the calipers, I did however manage to totally mangle my backing plate by drilling two holes perfect, and completely (somehow) messed up the position 3rd one by itself, despite measuring it about 8 times and making up a drilling template. Anyway. I gave up and sent it to the engineer I use and he is going to fill those holes in and spin up a pair of eccentric plates that will double as an ecentric ring to centre the Backing to the Trailing Arm Stub, and as a plate to bolt through the backing plate to the trailing arm. When he is done I will upload some photos of them. So now i've just gotta play the ol' waitin' game for Dyfol to post an update. *Twiddles Thumbs Intesively*

Keen/10. I'm heading into work tomorrow to O/H my calipers and knock up these backing plates onto a spare trailing arm I have. Then all I need is your hubs and I will be the happiest bloke out!