ANIM_Hooneru

GL_Giles, I would assume that it is the Program Function, which switches the playback to the other side of the tape. I.e., you have Side A playing, the Fast Forward Button will fast Forward, and the Rewind Button will Rewind. If you then hit the Program Button, it switches playback to Side B of the tape, and the Fast Forward and Rewind Buttons function will be reversed. -Anim

Hey Dyfol, Have you had another update yet? Also I have another (Probably dumb question...in reference to this earlier post by Bantum... Also the cross bred one is different again ... ( Found on google ... ) Add Note : They no longer produce this kit, but there are second hand ones to be had ... Note : The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ... Ciao, Bantum ... In regards to the backing plates pictured in the Cross-Bred Kit...What has he done to the mountings? It kinda looks like hes literally spot-welded a plate over the top of the four bolt mount and re-drilled with a three bolt mount pattern. What have you fellas done to mount your backing plates?

Hello again, Putting an in-line diode will not help in this situation. Can you upload a photo of the unit and your wiring? The only other possible outcome is you have your wiring wrong which I assumed you had right. I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to as 'Field Sense', as there are two Circuits into a Hitachi Style Unit, the "Field" Circuit, (which is identified by Terminals D+, DF, F, L) and the "Sense" Circuit, (which is identified by S) and occasionally an "Ignition" Circuit, (Identified by IG or R) You need to test you vehicle wiring. Have you got a test light handy?

Hey Kabarakh, When you say you have a draw on the "field sense wire", how did you come to that conclusion? Did the current draw go away when you unplugged the connector from the back of the unit? If that is the case, then the fault is within the alternator itself. The other end of the Sense line (S) is connected directly to the + side of the battery via a fuse, any short on that line would blow a fuse and leave you with (depending on alternator design) low or no charging, it wouldn't lead to a current draw. Same deal with the Field line (L), if there were a short on that line, the Battery Warning Light on the dash would be on all the time, and you would have no charging. I would be taking it back and getting the person who reco'd it to check it out. Even if you get the vehicle to them, if you can prove that it is in the unit itself (which from what i've read so far, looks like it) You may even be able to get a warranty on it. I know from my own experience (I am an Auto Electrician by trade) that workshops generally shy away from manufacturing Hitachi style alternators, they are a pain in the rump roast to do anything with the Regulator and Rectifier on account of the fact they are half riveted, half soldered together. Usually in the process of removing the rivets you wreck the plate. My guess would be they've ripped it to pieces, thrown brushes and bearings at it and called it 'reco'. Hitachi Rectifiers are notorious for going bad, and could quite possibly be the cause of your problem. Anyway, let us know how you get on.

Any news on the Hubs Dfoyl?

Gday Dawes, If you are using the original Hitachi Alternator unit, you should be able to buy just about everything at your local parts shop. Failing that, go and see your local Auto Electrician. The main charge lead (white) that goes to the B+ terminal on the back can be replaced with 8mm cable and run directly to the Positive battery terminal. Standard Yellow Crimp connectors will take 8mm cable if you are careful not to bend the strands as you insert them. Failing that, get your hands on some 10-6 or 10-8 cable lugs and crimp those on using lug crimpers or big pliers or crimp in a vice and solder. The 2 pin plug is commonly called a male QC2 connector. Dunno if you fellas have Narva branded stuff over there in the states, but if you do the number is a 56252. This plug will have two conections to it, L and S. The S wire you can run a 3mm cable to a fuseholder, and then directly to the battery. Use a 5 amp fuse. The other wire, L, will run all the way to the instrument cluster. In reality, the load on that circuit is so insignificant that the cable is probably OK. If you really want to replace it though, you will have to pull a new wire back to the instrument cluster and I cant remember what pin you need to connect it to off the top of my head. (Ill look up my notebook later) As for an earth lead, run a 8mm cable from the alternator top adjuster bolt to the negative battery terminal. Nope that helps.

Dyfol, updates!!! Where are we up to!?

Na Wagonist i'm referring to the rear end... My front end is already setup is full Liberty gear, using a Liberty ball joint in my MY LCAs + Coilovers... All i've got in the back end at the moment is a Liberty Diff and a shortened driveshaft to the front... Whatever road this goes down, I at least want *one* set...Was just querying as in my memory the Liberty Hub Spline was different to old MY hub splines...meaning in my situation I would need to run a hybrid CV (Liberty inner, MY Outer) if my memory was right. Anyway Dfoyl, that looks really good. Mark me down for a pair of the finished product regardless of what spline they are.

Hey guys, If this goes ahead, I am super keen and definitely count me in for at least one set, possibly two. (Dependant on if the price blows way out of my affordability range) My swap has pretty much ground to a halt due to being unable to get the rear end sorted out. One question though, using the MY Spline means that I'd still have to run Hybrid Liberty Inner/ Brumby Outer CVs, right?

Good Evening Subargurus and Subarguruettes, I'm seeking some advice from someone who has played with the 3AT 4WD Boxes fitted to 4WD Turbo (AC7) Models here in Australia. The transmission has been fine since I've had it, I rekon I would have easily put 8000-10000kms on the thing since I bought it. When I first got it rego'd I went straight to the auto trans specialist two towns over and got them to check it out, do a service and band adjustment etc and the boss man down there was of the opinion it was in fairly good condition for its age. Fast forward to two days ago. I was driving down the highway, in top gear doing about 85kms/h, I'd backed off a bit for a slight corner, when I went to throttle out of the corner, nothing. She just revved, and went up to 6000rpm no worries. I tried accelerating again, did the same thing. I slowed down and pulled back to 2nd gear manually, and it drove; so I pulled up and checked things out under my car. All seemed ok, checked my fluid level, it was fine and was still bright red and didn't smell burnt at all. I tested the car a bit on the road, Reverse still worked fine, so I put her in drive and accelerated, no problems. I turned around and headed for home, accelerated through first gear, it dropped into 2nd, then at 60-70kms/h, dropped into 3rd, and revved out and went nowhere. I limped the 20kms back into town at 50kms in 2nd, got home, checked it out again, no oil leakage, the trans oil was still ok, so I left it for the night. Got in the car to goto work the next morning, and dropped it in D, and took off, and it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. I dropped the shifter back and she went into 2nd, but no longer will go into 3rd or change gears on its own. Bearing in mind i'm not a mechanic or transmission repairer (I'm but a mere lowly Auto-Electrician), I consulted my FSM for 86 Year Leone's and XT/Vortex's and read the section on Autos and was overwhelmed by just how much there is in them. So what I have done so far... * Checked and adjusted my idle speed and ignition timing * Visually checked the transmission for leakage and disconnected wires, hoses etc * Adjusted my shifter linkage * Consulted the transmission specialist and discussed brake band adjustment, and under advice and FSM, retorqued band adjustment to 9NM and backed it off two turns From what i've seen in the hydraulic system, the next item I see that has the two problems in common is the Governor Valve, my plan for tomorrow is to remove the exhaust and remove the G.V. and clean/inspect it. I guess what I am after here is the opinion of someone with more experience with Autos then me to say if I'm on the right track. From what I can interpret from my book, it wouldn't be a Clutch Pack or Brake Band, because if it were a Clutch Pack, I wouldn't have 1/2 gears, and if it were a Brake Band, I wouldn't have the Engine Braking effect. Anyone who has a parts listing for the 3AT, if you could post it up that would be much appreciated. Also another point - I do have a 5sp setup here that I can put in, but I don't really have the time and cant afford to take my only rego'd vehicle off the road for long...if I find that 3rd gear internally has actually let go, then the 5sp swaps on the cards, unless someone down the East Coast has a 4WD 3AT they would be happy to part with. /endrant. Thanks in Advance, guys.

Now that I have worked out how to actually post photos properly..Heres another...probably my favourite photo I have. This is parked up out at Glen Innes, NSW after I had spent all weekend polishing and cleaning. Didn't look too shabby

Just thought i'd throw up a photo I took of my first Leone the morning after I bought it...Seems like its the only one I actually have photos of...

Thanks for all the advice guys, ive sourced most of them now through a mate who works for Kmart Tyre and Auto in Brisbane, looks like their superpro catalogue is a bit differerent to ours. Hopefully get it sorted as soon as my wheel bearings are done. Should be good again to not feel the rear diff rocking around under the tray when I corner.

Gday all. it has come to my attention at last rego check that pretty much all of the bushes in the rear of my 1992 Brumby/Brat are worn out and need replacement. I work in spare parts and I have ordered rear control arm bushes, mustache bar bushes and a diff mount bush through my supplier three times now and they still havnt sent me the right ones, both times theyve either been different crush tube sizes or different external size. I believe they keep sending me L series bushes, not MY Brumby bushes, supplier claims my 1992 Brumby doesnt exist. Has anyone ever had any dramas finding the correct polyurathane bushes from Superpro, Nolathane, Whiteline etc? Also with the diff mount bush, a solid rubber replacement to me at cost price was $80au which seems a little steep. Any help would be appreciated, thanks guys

You know guys, Ive never signed up to a forum in my life, and I signed up here and this is my first post just to say... Holy spoob man, That is soo nice and you have one very very (very) envious admirer here in Australia. I always rekoned if I was to get a wagon that i'd outfit it with Desert Fox stickers, in red if I could find a set. Anyway looks real nice, be proud and keep it out of that damn salt! My hometown is about 80kms from the coast and 30m above sea level and codswalloping *everything* rusts there, theres a lot of old subarus sitting around in paddoks rusting away so look after it its a classic car now, itll be a gem for years to come.