thornleyjacob

Well, I gave them the deposit - will report on how this goes but I do not expect to have the wheels until late July or August.

They are painted from what I understand - Black or White. I am going with black because I plan on spraying the fronts a gunmetal grey... leaving the back portion black.

He got back to me rather quick today. ..................................................................... Yes, likely $100USD per wheel and then about $230 shipping for 5 to Medford. Send the $150 deposit via PAYPAL to: sales@get-primitive.com Will REFUND if this thing does not get off the ground. The post out on the board needs to be much CLEARER. As usual, everyone replies to the post and does not contact ME (like you and just 2 others did) These are REPLICA Scorpion wheels out of Australia. Those interested should email their name/address/phone info to us and exactly what they are looking to get (i.e. qty = 5 BLACK painted Brumby wheels 14x6 4x140) Deposits will need to be made soon, as the wheels must get to the DOCK in BRISBANE by about May 25th. EXACT wheel cost and EXACT shipping still need to be determined... but my above estimate above is likely pretty good. Primitive Enterprises, Inc 9460 SW Tigard St Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223 9:30am -5:30pm PST M-F 503-624-2139

Just got word from Primitive Racing and they have moved forward on this a bit and are trying to nail down pricing from Phil in Australia now. Once done they will know better but I was just told, trying to confirm, CostOf4Wheels + ~$200.00 Freight (not sure if that estimate includes shipping here in the states or just the freight to get them here from Australia). Will let you know more when I know more.

That sucks - I hope you won't have issues bolting up. Worst off you will need to get some spacers made.

I thought I read that someone tried to do that bolt up and it didn't work for some reason. I did the quarter method; use a pipe cutter, or hacksaw, and cut the ends of the ASV's down to about the length of the fastener (end that attaches to the spacer between the head and headers). Then drop a quarter into the holes and bolt the remaining pipe down (You need the pipe as the end flanges and puts pressure on the quarter) and that will close off the opening.

Also what did you do with your ASV pipes?

Sorry had life come up... The line from the firewall going to the vapor separator (fuel filter) is the fuel feed line - you CAN bypass that filter and plumb it straight from the firewall to your carburetor (this was told to me by GD on the forums here, someone who seems exceedingly knowledgeable and someone you can trust). The line that runs from the top of vapor separator and down to the firewall, next to the side of the brake booster, is the return line... this fuel line can all be removed and then cap the end off on the firewall. Then there is another line that runs right next to the fuel feed line, out of the firewall, that is your Fuel Tank Breather line... this normally runs down and to the charcoal canister behind your driver side headlights (big black plastic cylinder thing). You can remove the charcoal canister and bring that line back to the firewall; most people put a filter on the end to ensure dirt and water does not run down the line. Keep the end of on the line as high as you can in the engine compartment. Again these are things that have been told to me on this forum or I have read up on elsewhere online. I've been running for about 3 weeks this way now and all seems fine; actually engine is running really good.

Basically - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimetallic_strip

It is just a spring... when it is cold it closes when it warms up from the charge it opens up and if it is already warm outside it will stay open.

You need to make the choke wire... I would suggest getting some nice spayed that fit the connector end on the electric choke. I tried hooking mine in via the wires that the old hitachi used; but those are not providing proper voltage... I am looking to make a whole new wire and go directly to the positive side on the coil... that is what someone told me and checking with a voltage meter it seems correct.

Number 3 goes to the distributor. Electric Choke needs 12v when the engine is on and none when it is off (don't want it draining the battery).

Comatosellama, I just did this swap... Weber DGEV 32/36 From digging around on the boards and my own understanding; things that will need to be connected... Fuel Line In from Firewall to Carb. Vacuum Line from Carb to Distributor. Vacuum Line from Intake Filter to Passenger Side Valve Cover OR one of them silly looking filters you can connect direct to the Valve Cover. Vacuum Line from Driver Side Valve Cover to PCV with a T in the line and a smaller (Original Diameter) line running up to the Intake Filter.The T in the line is important as it stops the PCV from sucking oil up through the Driver Side Valve Cover. From my understanding this side is important because it pulls the bad gasses out of the motor via the PCV. Throttle Cable to Throttle Cable Linkage on the Carb. And the power cable running to the electric choke on the Carb. I ended up buying the extra kit for the throttle cable bracket - this makes mounting the throttle cable a breeze instead of fiddling with a bunch of crap. http://www.jameng.com/products/Universal-DGV-cable-linkage..html I ended up buying a EGR Delete kit from Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Delete-Block-Off-Subaru-SVX-XT-Loyale-Brat-1600-1800-TBIM-/151393859173?hash=item233fc6f665&vxp=mtr I removed everything else and capped off anything that was left open minus the Fuel Tank Breather line that is next to the Fuel Feed Line on the firewall. I do have a few other things to clean up and modify; running heater hose temporarily for the PCV system but need to order some nicer and correct hoses for that system. I also want to add a few in line filters to the Fuel Feed Line and the Fuel Tank Breather Line. Hope that helps some.

Still trying... the alternate, if you are really interested is to contact Phil Nelis on Facebook and pay the higher cost of shipping from him directly.

Hopefully this will be the last of the front end changes for a while; need to get the rear wheel bearings and seals done here soon (have a hum going on).

I've emailed and not heard back yet - they did say that they were extremely busy right now.

LOL! Is that why they would not go back in? What tools are you using to spin them back in? Lucky that the rear axles last a long time... the fronts however I hear go all the time.

Fun little story! A few weeks back the wife and I was driving down a dirt road up in the mountains and I hit a pothole doing 30-40; it was pretty rough but car continued on fine. When the dirty road T'd with a main road we were forced to stop, and when we started to go the car started to shake - almost like I was applying the brakes over and over again but to only one side; the car was pulling itself and the wheel to the passenger side. I jumped out and did a once over and nothing seemed busted. So I decided to give her some gas and see what happens... no more jerking??? We slowly made our way home. I drove to work the next day just fine but on the way home the issue presented again... I again stopped, checked, and then drove the car back to work with no real issue and then I ended up just driving the car home since all my tools were there. Jacked Driver Side up for inspection.Spun wheel/tire by hand; grabbing occurs every 180 or so. Pulled wheel/tire and spun by hand again; grabbing continues. Pulled brake caliper and spun by hand again; no more noticeable grabbing.Purchased brake pads and rotors for both sides. Jacked Driver Side up for brake pads/rotor replacement.Replaced rotor (had it trued first). Started to replace pads but the brake piston refused to go back in.Purchased new caliper. Jacked Driver Side up for caliper replacement.Replaced caliper. Replaced brake pads. Bled front driver side and rear passenger side. Took car for a spin and brakes were off and there was a slight grab still (no where near as bad). Jacked Passenger Side up for inspection.Rear pad was floating and the main spring that holds the rear pad in place was toast and the piston refused to go back in.Purchased new caliper and hardware. Jacked Passenger Side up for caliper replacement.Replaced caliper. Replaced brake pads. Bled front passenger and rear driver side. Took car for a spin and definitely have brakes now; grab pretty much gone now... only occurs slightly in left hand turn. Drove car to work today and there was a slight bit of grabbing still going on; assuming bearings I decided to drive over to a bearing warehouse down the block and pick up some new sealed ones that were recommended on the forums. Parked the car, picked up bearings, and went to head back to work... GRRRRRRRRIIIIIIINNNNNNDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD!!!!!! Well, that's new. Car definitely having an issue. I push it back into the parking spot and the car started having round metal babies... all covered in black goo! OuterCV blew up on me; this is a relatively new EMPI axle I just put in last September. I now assume this has been my main issue... BUT; glad I replaced the calipers and pads as they really needed it. I'll be doing another axle/bearing replacement this weekend. Fun, fun, fun...

And yeah the Australian Bull Bars are awesome.

Well those that want them fast and don't mind paying the cost of fast shipping - you cant contact "Phil Nelis" on Facebook.

On another note - I have done business with Primitive Racing before. They have been trustworthy peeps so far.

So some things to know: Paul Eklund from Primitive Racing is interested in doing this, but they are super busy. His contact information is: sales@get-primitive.com and yes I asked for his permission to post that here. They have a shipping crate coming May 30th via OCEAN; so all who are interested are going to need to act now. The wheels come in white or black. He will require a deposit of $150.00 - he has not figured out what the total price per rim is going to be yet. I am sure once we get this setup there will be more interest in bringing more over; but those that have been looking at the Scorpions and drooling for the last few years... its a way to get them basically. I'll try to get the information for his next shipment... but it probably wont be for another 3-4 months.

Check for spark at the plugs and listen for fuel pump pumping when the key goes on.

Pull the plugs; covered in oil or are the tips dry? Do you have a compression tester?

Tan can be dyed to blue with RIT dye. Won't be exact but it will be close.